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DannoXYZ

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Everything posted by DannoXYZ

  1. Would be shame to have site go away. I've PMed Miguel and volunteered to keep this site going. Would need some training and help to get up to speed.
  2. Feathering on edge of sipes more visible in previous photo: I had that issue on mine too. Day 2 @ AMP on Q3+ Consulted with Dave Moss and he suggested I go 2/1psi less to 31F/28R. And increase rear rebound-damping. I added 1/4-turn per session and ended up 1 full turn more @ 2.75 turns compared to original 1.75. Much more even wear by 3rd day. Not much left, but definitely better. Also improved my times by 1.2s/lap, which is HUGE! Got set of KM1 in, looking forward to tyres that lasts more than 3-days!!! Especially at Attesa Podium Club track, which is much higher speeds. 🙂
  3. I find it difficult to ride with right hand on hip to balance that out! Mine actually wears out left or right faster depending upon CW or CCW direction track is run. Some tracks only go in one direction, like Laguna Seca, so I wear out left side quicker.
  4. I don't like Honda's procedure of pounding in new bearings with hammer either! There's been many reports of bearings being loose in wheels after several replacements. I always use long bolt/all-thread or hydraulic press to gently push bearings in. With no angled cocking like you get when pounding in by hand.
  5. Been using All Balls kits for decades without issues. Carb rebuild-kids, wheel-bearing kits, tapered roller-bearing steering (only lower), fork-seals & bushings most recently on my CBR600RR.
  6. Heh, heh... I'll try out set at my preferred pressures. Have gone through at least 50 sets of tyres on this bike. Thanks for the find! 🙂
  7. Ugh, that's corporate CYA pressure for max GVWR at continuous top-speed of bike! You're sacrificing tonne of grip and safety at those pressures. Try 33/36 psi for much, much better braking and handling.
  8. What kind of pressures are you running?
  9. You need some of these footpegs: https://www.scar-racing.com/en/products/456-titanium-footpegs.html
  10. What OD did you trim them down to in order to fit? I've used these on my RC24 & RC26 and they fit perfectly. Expands to about 41mm when crushed. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256805023890622.html Looks like 800 also uses 40mm gasket https://www.ebay.com/itm/195539730170
  11. Ok, you can get generic conveter cable and attach proper Honda DLC connector: https://www.amazon.com/Serial-Adapter-Signal-Prolific-Windows/dp/B07R8BQYW1/ https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=341&category_id=54 Pin-outs -Black/white > +12V -Orange/White > K-line -Brown > SCS can jumper to flash error codes -Green > ground The ECU does not speak OBD2 language, but much, much older analogue serial K-line protocol. Similar to modem AT commands for those familiar with dial-up modems. Downloading flash image .BIN file takes 15-minutes @110 baud !!! 😛
  12. It's a basic USB/serial to TTL converter cable. Can build your own with instructions here: https://github.com/AlexKovalevich/HondaECU Heck once you've reached that site, you might as well download all the software to edit maps and flash them to ECU yourself. He's got stock and modified .BIN files for download with 1st/2nd gear restrictions removed.
  13. Wow, that's pretty darn good wear for 3000 miles!🙂 Will probably make it to 10k, eh?
  14. It should be fine. You've got tinned-wiring that's corrosion resistant. And nice seal with adhesive heat-shrink. Only issue would be max-power rating across that connection. But SH847 only transmits as much as needed, rather than 100% of stator-output fulltime like factory RR. So you're looking at lots less current going through that connection. Some related topics I've found: http://v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25778 <-- actual current measurements https://www.cbrxx.com/threads/actual-stator-temps-sh847.49533/ - temp testing https://www.douglasvanbossuyt.com/category/hobbies/motorcycle/ - more temp tests https://www.cbrxx.com/threads/sh847-series-regulator-rectifier-install.42754/ https://www.kawasakiversys.com/thre...-shunt-star-delta-technical-info-2017.222367/ https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php?topic=20426.0 https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index...-new-to-vfrd-from-new-jersey-need-helpadvice/ https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/biting-the-bullet-on-charging-system.28810/page-3 https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums...t-step-wires&p=2845062&viewfull=1#post2845062 https://www.triumphrat.net/threads/charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.104504/ https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1320648-stator-trouble/ https://www.createfixshare.com/articles/drz400-sh775-regulator-rectifier-upgrade/
  15. Here's example of brand-new crimped connectors that burned up as well. Other than being new, it is not an improvement over Honda's selection of bare-brass uncoated connectors. Highest-capacity 1/4" spade terminals I could find is rated for 24a. Honda uses that in many 30a circuits (starter-solenoid). Due to lack of contact surface-area, it heats up and burns well before hitting max-rating when tiniest amount of corrosion develops. Soldering lowers temps significantly at wire to terminal joint and keeps out corrosion, but you still have limited contact surface-area between male-female connection. Ultimate solution is this: I did this on my RC24 10-yrs in. It's held up fine for past 27-yrs without any signs of overheating, much less burning. It's done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), military and aerospace applications for performance, reliability and durability. Having worked in 2 of these fields, NASA & Army, I can confirm benefits.
  16. Orange combines multiple ground-wires for different circuits together. Corrosions here can cause ground-loops where each circuit may have different voltage drops from batt +pos. Results in a 3rd circuit that flows the difference. On newer models, Honda went to ring-terminals and bolted them together for better contact-pressure and keep out corrosion. Only problem with solder is if you use so much it wicks out past end of terminal. That's only case where it's different than crimp-only. Straw-man really as no one uses that much. And physical loads on wires don't even come close to fatigue-limits (except in case of large transitions). Just a little dab at tip to seal wire-end from moisture being wicked into wire and causing green/black wire disease. And fills air-space between strands to improve conductivity with much larger contact surface area. Most of wiring issues I've seen are from using generic crimps with generic squashing crimpers. Transition from small wire to large crimp causes much larger stress-riser than soldered connections. In order for crimps to even come close to their potential (like used in those comparisons), you need a matching crimping frame+die +terminals system. Where die generates a W or hexagon shaped crimp which squeezed OD inwards to remove as much air from between wire-strands as possible. But not so much squeeze it takes metal of terminal past plastic/yield limits. I use these to build my harnesses https://www.newark.com/c/connectors/connector-tools-accessories/crimp-tool-dies?brand=amp-te-connectivity To make proper crimps like these: Then if you add a little dab of solder to seal end, but not so much you see it flow past crimp into strain-relief, that's even better! 🙂 Here's guidelines to making good crimps. Without proper matching crimper die+terminal system, best to back it up with solder. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rl2jsBrLlF_GMpFynaE21_X0bIfOdWr3/view?usp=sharing
  17. Thanks for write-up! Did you happen to measure temp of old RR? Try touching this RR after a ride. 🙂
  18. No need to watch. First measure resistance to chassis-ground of fan power-wire. If it's not OL/infinite ohms, you've got short on that wire. Ends up drawing more power than just fan when termo-switch closes.
  19. No need to swiss-cheese, just have open-space at ends to expose internal volume. The caps on yours is so spacer actually stops spring instead of dropping into centre and doing nothing (because pipe chosen was too small in diameter). Factory config uses wide washer in that place. Spacers don't do anything but provide a stop for spring. Lower the stop (longer spacer) the more preload spring has and this lifts front-end. Shorter spacer lets spring relax more and has less preload and lowers front-end. For example, factory spacer and spring on top of this photo. Stiffer upgrade spring on bottom has thicker and fewer coils, resulting in shorter overall length. Just need to keep overall total length same since fork is still same length. So make custom PVC spacer to result in exact same total length as stock. Softer springs have more coils and are longer. So to fit them, you need shorter spacer to give more room for spring with same overall length as stock. Basically going in opposite direction as above.
  20. My '86 RC24 has 96K-miles on original clutch. I installed stiffer Barnett springs about 10-yrs in. I only use clutch for taking off in 1st, and downshifting. Haven't measured, but I suspect it's about 50% worn, going from mileage on clutches on my other bikes. I also have most of original OEM rear brake-pads too.
  21. SAT: spooned on some new Q3+ on bike SUN: took out to AMP trackday w/BrakeFree Tracktime Did all 8-sessions, no lunch-break. Darn, forgot to check-in with Hookit! Well, my rating's taken nosedive anyway since I haven't done any racing past 2-yrs due to GERMS!!!
  22. I'm trying to find photo I saw and don't know where it is. VFR was in someone's garage on rear seat, it had one of those double-decker shogun-style rear wings you see on back of Japanese cars probably temporarily put there while they moved stuff around Does someone have copy of this photo or have link to thread where it's posted Thanks!
  23. Thanks for info! Wait... if you remove O2-sensors on 6th-gen, it still pulls back mixtures? How does it know engine's running too rich? How does it know how much fuel to pull?
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