RossR

Miguel, You have been very quiet since your first announcement about closing VFRD, but if you have been reading all the posts you should feel very proud that you created a site that so many people feel is a treasure trove of information AND camaraderie. Please don't let it go! This is truly the best VFR forum! In fact, the best and friendliest forum that I belong to! Ross

YES! This is the best VFR forum with a good layout and the friendliest and most helpful members! 😢that it is ending.

I meant that I would be interested in the Convertibars if they do not work for you, not the lines.

Yes, Helibars are a stupid price for what they are. Good marketing, just like Corbin seats. Let as know what your riding experience is with those risers. I had put them into my Watch List on ebay. Better to buy adjustable Convertibars if one is going down that route. I have not seen a single person who regretted buying Convertibars. Can't say the same for Helibars. The only thing is that your outlay is high up front as you do need to change all lines to get the best benefit. They are adjustable 4" up (possibly higher) and 4" back and the angle of clip on is adjustable too. https://www.convertibars.com/product-p/honda-vfr-800-98-99.htm AND, you can adjust the parameters in a few minutes with an Allen key when on the road so you 'tour' or 'track'. Not sure if these have been mentioned before on this thread. Apex clip ons are similar but their clamp is not as good as Convertibars. This was pointed out by a competitive cyclist on another forum who knew something about seat clamps. I think he said that Apex thread into the metal and will eventually fail, whereas Convertibars don't. I can't offer any opinion on that. https://www.apexmfg.com/all-products/apex-clip-ons/apex-3-riser-clip-on-set Windshield trimming may be required with both these.

👍👍👍

Thanks Terry, As I said, I am at kindergarten level. So, fork caps and cartridges off the VTR1000F Superhawk/Firestorm plus an appropriate spring change, and the correct grade of oil would be a quick upgrade. How bad/good is the quality of the OEM fork spring? I've seen posts by Jamie Daugherty where he says that the rear shock spring is appropriate for a 12lb person, and judging from the feedback on the VFR forums and the CBR1100XX forums, he really knows his stuff. Ross

Thanks Terry, Same dimensions but the F4i forks are 43mm so putting the F4i cartridges into the 5th Gen 41mm forks would not work. Correct? I am at kindergarten level with regard to this topic.

Hi Terry, What modifications did you do to the F4i forks. Did you swap out the entire front with the triple trees? Ross

Could you post photos and/or your opinion about them on the 5th Gen?

Do you know whether the brake lines were changed for longer ones. Without changing lines and cables appropriately for the rise that you want, I don't think that you can get the full benefit of the Convertibars. The 'choke' cable might also have to be changed if you want them high. If you don't like them and decide to sell them, please let me know.

Old thread, but since you are a Forum moderator I am hoping to get a reply. What handlebars did you have on this very nice looking VFR? They look wider and higher than Helibars.

I am not sure if this has been posted before but I just came across this website dedicated to the VFR (primarily the second-gen 1986-87 VFR 700/750), and set up by a VFR enthusiast by the name of Joe Nelson. I would be surprised if he isn't a member of this forum. Some useful articles, some (possibly hard to find) parts, an interesting Blog, and some history on the VFR Maintenance - v4 Dreams

Hi RossR, Thank you for your donation of 15.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Thanks Seb. That's where I should have posted this thread in the first place. I the Moderator or anyone can tell me how to do that it's where it belongs.

I did a forum search for PlastiFix, and your thread does not come up. can you please post a link. Thanks.

I think that you are absolutely right. That's why I made the point of saying that one must make sure that the adhesive and technique match the type of plastic. There was a guy at the last local motorcycle show who was selling a kit for fairing ABS repair, but I have misplaced the literature. When it turns up I will post the details. In the meantime here are links to some advice. https://advrider.com/f/threads/repairing-broken-abs-parts.586425/ https://www.webbikeworld.com/repairing-motorcycle-saddle-bags/

It might be different for each model. You have to look at the the back as Duc2V4 has posted. In his image you see the code PA6 +PPE which is mix of two different plastics. Usually it's just one type. Once you find the code Google it and you will find out the type of plastic. Some fairings are ABS which apparently is easier to work with. PPE is polypropylene which is notoriously difficult to glue or paint. My Givi E-41 cases are PPE.

I came across this article and video and thought that it might be of use to anyone attempting to repair broken tabs on their fairings. Remember to always look at plastic Type code on the inside of the fairing before you buy the appropriate adhesive. https://diy-auto-repair.wonderhowto.com/how-to/fix-broken-plastic-tabs-bumper-0141489/