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adkfinn

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Posts posted by adkfinn

  1. 1 hour ago, logunover said:

    But you should cut off part of the right grip for the throttle handle (or cut off part of plastic grip).

     

    grip.png

     

    From what I recall I don't think I had to do this? The throttle side grip is a pretty good fit on my bike, you can see it in one of my earlier posts (linked pic). 

  2. 16 hours ago, Ziffer said:

     

    Well, these look like the nicest ones yet...and the most expensive. I like the location and size of the controller. Where did you find the switched power to hook them up?

     

    Like Captain mentions below - I just tapped switched power to trigger a relay wired from the battery. I am planning on adding a fuse block/power center ( something like this perhaps? https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/fuseboxes.html ) in the near future. 

     

    15 hours ago, Captain 80s said:

    Not sure if I'm groovin' on where that integrated controller is.  Perhaps taking up valuable grip space, is 120mm not including the controller?  Is the right grip 120mm?  Maybe not a problem in reality, but I'm not sure I'd want that thing always pressing against the side of my hand.  I wasn't the biggest fan of the Oxford controller either, but I mounted it down around my triple clamp, not sticking up off my master cylinder clamp.   It's not like it's a shift button that constantly needs quick thumb access.    

     

    I ran a switched relay pulling power from the battery and a tapped a dash light lead to energize it with the key.  But I have friends that have it wired right to their battery, no toggle or relay. 

     

    On my St1100.  There's a lot of shit going on here, I know.  The Oxford controller doesn't block as much as it looks like when riding, I don't need to know I'm going 10mph.  You can see a USB port peeking out from the upper right of the controller too.  Voltmeter is on a toggle so I'm not staring at it all day.

     

     

    PXL_20220114_232545322.jpg

     

    That indeed is one busy cockpit Captain! What are the four switches for? 

     

    I took some measurements for posterity since you raised a concern I hadn't even thought of - https://photos.app.goo.gl/Qe31T5BHgyQcgnwS9

     

    Regarding the switch position - I find it doesn't eat up enough space to bother me and it also lines up well with the soft webbing between thumb and forefinger, so I don't feel any pressure point from it or anything while riding. 

  3. I have been running these for a few yrs and they've been good so far: https://kosonorthamerica.com/product/apollo-heated-grips-universal-fit-120mm/

     

    I did not like the boxy Oxford controller at all, and the Koso's have the switch integrated into the left grip edge, which I liked better. They get plenty hot (5 settings, color coded via the single LED at the switch), the control is super easy.... right there by my thumb if my hands get cold. You do have to reach over/past the grip heat switch to get the horn, but this is no big deal to me. Seem to be good quality, nicely made, nicely terminated for easy install also. 

  4. 3 hours ago, alexoclock said:

    Thanks for that. I haven't got the dials out yet, but I've a couple of bulbs gone in the panel so thought I'd do the LCD 'upgrade' whilst I had the front off (adding a voltmeter across the +12V to the panel as well). I bought some adhesive polarized filter, but I'm slightly concerned that the LCD has a second filter at the back, because when I turn the new filter to block the backlight, the digits stay dark, so it's just a black screen. you only did the front side filter right?

     

    Yes, I believe I only removed the factory film from the front only. 

  5. 4 hours ago, alexoclock said:

    Hi adkfinn, I really like what you've done with the lcd there. I just wanted to know, did you take the metal bezel off and peel the whole front polarizer or score round the inside edge with a blade and peel that? 

    I believe I took the metal off as I definitely replaced the entire film from edge to edge. I think that metal piece kind of clips behind the unit on the sides where the little arms go into the board. Can you lift the whole board out from the white housing to see the back side? Sorry for the highly technical lingo, you caught me in the middle of happy hour, cheers!

  6. On 7/12/2023 at 12:29 AM, Grum said:

    Do a search for LCD Polarizing Film, there's lots out there.

    You might be able to remove/unstick the front film and replace it. Haven't done it but it would be worth a try 

    Good Luck

     

    On 7/12/2023 at 7:14 PM, VFRnewrider said:

    I looked into that. that might just be my issue!
    hell of a job if it goes wrong. i might just squint so i can see my gauges :goofy: 

     

    I agree with Grum, that damage looks like just the polarizing film to me. The factory applied film is just stuck down with adhesive over the glass LCD screen, which I bet is fine under there. When I modified mine I was able to remove the film fairly easily, then cleaned the glass with glass cleaner/goo gone/etc., and then installed the new film at 90deg rotation. It seemed daunting at first (sensitive electronics don't agree wth my gorilla fingers and smash-all tendencies), but once I got going it was all pretty easy and straightforward. It doesn't look like I took any pics of the process, but here is the end result: https://www.dropbox.com/s/5pl76rhgm9vg5ux/dash.jpg?dl=0

     

     

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  7. Terrible news, what a loss. We only ever interacted on the forum / on the headers, but it was clear he was a great person. His presence here felt noteworthy and meaningful in our little VFR community. My condolences to those that knew Lance, may you find peace in time. 

     

    I'm proud to have a set of WyLD headers, they were such a labor of love to bring into existence. I'll think of Lance next time I hear them sing.

    • Like 5
  8. I have the BW high mount link pipe with one of their carbon cans. The link pipe is fine, on par with the rest of their quality (nice, but affordable nice not expensive nice), no qualms there.

     

    While the pipe itself probably doesn't affect sound very much, since you asked: The sound with the baffle in place is great for street riding in my opinion, it has enough V4 growl and isn't too loud or shrill. I've been happy with it, plenty loud when you get on it, plenty quiet when you are in town or just cruising. FWIW, I have a TBR low mount stainless can and think the sound is much harsher/ more barky. HTH

  9. 13 hours ago, tsmitty said:

    Me too, plus I was missing 1 o-ring for the water pipe assy., got that too. So I'm about ready for a carb tear-down and water pipe seal re-new!

     

    I know Dutchy, that battles been going on in my head through out my bikes whole re-tool project.  

     

    Even if the 'new' o rings were NOS from a bag on a shelf they'll still probably be 100x better than what you are replacing. The o rings in my bike were totally spanked when I removed them... square, brittle and covered in mineralization. I also used the AS3 clamps with their hose kit and it all went swimmingly and I haven't had any issues since. My bikes live in a barn in the winter (no heat) here in VT so they see all our winter lows (regularly colder than -10 F, often a few nights of -20 F). 

     

     

    • Like 1
  10. Miguel - As many others have said. Thank you so much for your time and commitment to the site. This is hands down the best VFR site online and I have learned a massive amount from it over the years. 

     

    I do hope we can either keep it going somehow or keep it online as a searchable database tied to VFRW perhaps or tucked away as a searchable archive? The knowledge accumulated here is priceless. 

    • Like 2
  11. 2 hours ago, Skids said:

    Hmmmm, my link pipe is 49mm

     

    Yes, this is the only hiccup of trying to use an off the shelf link pipe with the WiLD header. You'll need to stretch it a few 'mm' in order to get the two to play together. If you devise a way to DIY it, please share. 

     

    EDIT - be careful stretching the link pipe, stainless loves to tear. There were recent pics from another user showing their torn link pipe after they had a shop try to stretch it for them... not sure which thread it was in offhand.

    • Thanks 1
  12. Seb - amazing work. You managed to stuff 10lbs of shit into a 5lb bag for sure... sweet sweet install. 

     

    Any chance you'd make a run of the carbon fiber right footrest heat shields? One of those would look great on my 5th gen, I like that way more than the factory piece. 

     

     

  13. 16 hours ago, bmart said:

    A local guy sold a shock out from under me and didn't tell me until I got to his house to pick it up yesterday. People... so, I'm still hunting for a shock for the yellow '00.  

     

    I have a stock shock that is in serviceable condition - pulled at 26k. Let me know if you are interested, I will snap some pics. 

     

    • Like 1
  14. 20 hours ago, Kbear said:

    Yep, that's the Harris hugger I was looking to purchase but the post-Vid expense is a little tough to swallow. $308 with a lead time of 3-4 months? Was just texting a friend about this subject and he said "just fly to England and get it". We both had a good laugh on that one. Thanks for posting!

     

    Just double checked my order because I couldn't remember those details, lead time was 8-12wks and postage was insane then also.... 115 GBP   :blink:

  15. I have a Harris, ordered pre-Vid - it wasn't the cheapest dalliance, esp with shipping to the US, but I'd do it again. It is such a nice piece, great craftsmanship and excellent fit. I am in the northeastern US, and while I don't ride in the winter, the roads are filthy. I decided to get a hugger to protect my DMr shock, because the factory one was manked.... so much cold-patch.

     

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