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I just want to quote the Sargeant from Stripes, my favoritest big toe and best buddy, and say "Lighten up Francis"'es...

Excellent commentsTim C. Thanks for adding to the discussion!

That file is handy---keep a copy on my phone when I'm on the road. However, it is better for my brain to have a hard copy of the shop manual--don't care if I drop it or get it dirty when working on the bike. I like to have my options. I am CHEAP...but I spent a little money buying someones used manual. Worth the bucks to ship it to me. Matt

I agree, unless you changed the valving, or are going like something with Race Tech Gold valves (which flow a lot more oil) keep the stock recommended oil weight for the stock valving... Matt

Just for precaution's sake, always leave a trip plan with a friend or family member...whether you're riding, looking at a bike, hiking or on business. That way, if something should go wrong someone knows your plan--heck you may just run out of gas in an area with no cell coverage...or your cell battery died along with your charger. Taking a buddy is a good way to split up tasks so you can be objective AND observant. What is the owner nervous about when you ask questions or poke around on the bike? People will give you clues. Also, a friend can keep you from being too "rosy" or too down on one thing and help you evaluate the overall value for the bike at which you're inspecting. Lastly, if you choose to exercise your second amendment rights, responsible people practice, carry concealed and, generally, don't make a big deal about it. It's like breathing, you don't notice it nor do your friends...but when you need it it's there. IF you decide NOT to exercise those rights, that's OK too. Personally, I've ridden with a friend who carries 24/7 (He's a cop) and you don't even notice it. BTW it is useful riding around with a friend who is a LEO...just saying. Personally I grew up around hunting, practicing shooting at a young age--shotguns, rifles and handguns and I've served in the military so I don't get freaked out by the mere presence of a firearm, ammunition or the like. I take people on how they behave. My father and grandfather instilled respect for tools--he had no tip of his index finger from mis-using a table saw as an example and instilled a respect for the proper care and use of firearms as well as many other tools. NO one here really bashed anybody about carrying, that's good, just expressing and questioning. No one should bash people who choose not to either--should flow both ways. I'll amend my blog to add in the precautions above. Matt

I used that thread as well. Very helpful. Matt

I saw one on Dave's (from Massachusettes) red 1999 at WDGAH two weekends ago in Lebanon NH. 174 HP at test wheel via dyno....BEAST!

So you wanna buy a used bike huh? How many bikes have you checked out/bought in the past? The following is just MY initial list for things to check when looking at a used bike...at a dealer or private individual. This list is NOT exhaustive--it was initially stream of conciousness, so the order is not necessarily optimal either. There is a wealth of knowledge on how to buy a new bike. Usually a Google search on "how to buy a used motorcycle" is a pretty good place to start...that said, it won't get you here! Basically, the strategy I take is that you put a not to exceed price on a bike you are going to RIDE (collecting bikes is a different story and these "rules" don't necessarily apply when you're insane about collecting) and don't EVER buy one for more than that...the reason is that another one will always show up somewhere--oh and it will probably be in better shape than the one you're currently inspecting. NEVER be desperate! YOU are the buyer and YOU have cash...cash is king! So operate from a position of abundance, you are in control. Be fair, be kind, don't be a dick...but be in control. I used to be an Air Force Officer and this approach works well for buying cars and getting groups of people to do what you want as well...if you are needy, desperate and a dick...you will be hard pressed to get what you must. Above all, be honest--that includes not leaving out key information (especially if you're selling). It's amazing how keeping your side of the street clean ends up in positive motorcycle karma! Beware, honest, straightforward thoughtful, smart buyers tend to scare about 30% of the people...you don't reallly want a bike from those people...So here's my "how to list to buy a used motorcycle". This is aimed toward the VFR rider, but you can use 90% of it for any modern Japanese bike, maybe 85% for standard or cruisers. BEFORE YOU GO: Just for precaution's sake, always leave a trip plan with a friend or family member...whether you're riding, looking at a bike, hiking or on business. That way, if something should go wrong on the way there or back someone knows your plan--heck you may just run out of gas in an area with no cell coverage...or your cell battery died along with your charger. Taking a buddy is a good way to split up tasks so you can be objective AND observant. What is the owner nervous about when you ask questions or poke around on the bike? People will give you clues. Also, a friend can keep you from being too "rosy" or too down on one thing and help you evaluate the overall value of the bike that you're inspecting. Before you go--let the owner know you want the bike cold--so you can see how it starts and runs when cold. Get permission beforehand to take a test ride. Get the background from the owner before you get there and ask him again when you arrive--note any differences, if any, in the stories--significant ones can be a clue to whether you're getting the whole story or not. YOU'VE ARRIVED: 1. Ask for the service history...if the guy doesn't take it to the dealer for this...ask for his log. If he doesn't keep one, that is one nock against the bike...no records means no proof of maintenance...not always bad, but not a positive. Check the VIN and see if this is a California model or not (will have evap canister on the bike as well...important iif you live in Cali I imagine. Write down the VIN and I think you can ask your insurance company or the dealer to see the history of the bike (if it has been crashed--reported--or not). 2. Bike should be COLD when you walk up...if not, then he either jumped it or got it started and warmed up so it would start easier (the first time)...this isn't normally a problem with an FI bike, more often with bikes that have carbs...but still...it is a potential sign. 3. Check the color of the oil level and color of the oil through side viewing window (rt side engine case ahead of the clutch housing) with bike on center stand...oil level should be between two lines--if too low, take a note...will probably be darker as well. If too high--above the second line -- that's definitely not good either. 4. Bring some hex wrenches and peel off the left side fairing (ask first) and look at the coolant level, cold. It should have coolant in between the two lines. After you start it up and get it to temp it should rise somewhat. 5. if you have a Volt Meter, take the seat off. Check to see if the factory tools are all there...and check the cold voltage on the battery. >12.2V but that's not enough. After you start the bike the voltage (DC) should be >13.5 at 2500 rpm and less than 14.8V at 5000 rpm. Here's the fault finding guide link from electro-sport...https://www.google.c...102537793,d.dmo 6. Let the bike warm up at idle for at least 5 minutes...the temperature should be >175F...if its a hot day let it idle for 20-25 minutes and the temp should go up to 220...the fan should kick on...if temp goes above 225 and no fan you have an issue (the displayed temp is wrong or the fan switch is not working or there is an open circuit in the fan circuit...)..either way you need to get the bike to temp and make sure the fan comes on...you can rev the bike safely after 5 minutes and it is up to temp to get the temps up... 7. if it is at temp, check the weep hole under the water pump to see if any coolant is coming out...use a flashlight, see if the weep hole is not gunked up first...if it is, un-plug it with something small...if there is fluid coming out the shaft seal on the water pump is shot...this is not good but repairable. 8. You should also ask for a test ride--if possible. Be prepared to leave your car keys or, something to secure the fact that you might ride off with the bike. Don't push it--you don't know IF there's something wrong or not. Start slowly and act like it is an MSF course...go through the gears, do some braking to a stop, go down through the gears...work up to Emergency stop conditions. Eventually get up to full throttle upshifts, but don't push top speed (it's not your bike--you're just making sure it isn't a pile of broken bolts). Wear your gear--ATGATT! Make sure your insurance will cover this (call before you test ride!) if something goes wrong. 9. Look for crash damage to the fairings...cracks or obvious repairs...better if you can pull off the side fairings and check them and the seat off to see if the rear has been repaired. all the fairings should line up easily...all the fasteners should be there...and should be factory...even behind the front wheel in front of the front cylinders...these little clips are a pain, sometimes we replace them with similar types...not too concerning, but they should all be there. 10. Look at the engine cases to see if they have been ground down. Look for oil leaks/fluid leaks under the bike. Look at the oil plug and oil filter see if there's any leaking oil. 11. look at the bar ends...are they stock or aftermarket?...if aftermarket, ask to see the factory ones...they should not be ground down...a scuff is OK, ground down means laid down...not just a tip over. Look for dents in the tank...Look at the front turn signals...cracks around them means they were either crashed and broken or tipped over. If they are replaced with aftermarket, ask to see the stock ones ("in case you want to put them back on") if they are scuffed or not there they were probably broken in a crash. 12. with bike on center stand and facing a garage door, check out the headlight pattern...I've seen it where one was higher than the other...menaing the front fairing stays were bent ...you should be able to see this also if the front windscreen and fairing are closer to one handlebar or the other...as you sit on the bike with the front wheel straight ahead. 13. Bring a string...and do the alignment method on the front and rear wheels...with an SSA (single sided swingarm) if these are not aligned, the frame is bent (http://www.motorcycl...wheel-alignment). 14. Look at the chain and rear sprocket...if the teeth are worn, ask when it was replaced...if no records assume you need to replace front, rear and chain....this is at least $200 negotiating point. Same with tires, used tires are OK, new better, if they are at the wear bars, it is a negotiating point worth at least $300 to $400. 15. Look for rust at any of the subframe welds...to me, this indicates it was bent, cracked the paint and is now weakened. 16. Look under the seat and see if he has any switched relays for accessories...is there a fuse for the relay? How are the electrical connections, are they professionally done or look like an amateur slice and dice job? 17. Look at the brake fluid color and the clutch fluid color...take the tops off and see if there's gunk in the resevoir...should be light or color of honey at most...brown is bad, gray or black is horrible. front and rear rotors should show some wear but not big ridges or gouges...a little rust is OK if it sits outside, but should wipe off ...lots of pitting is bad. The pads front and rear should be able to be inspected with a flashlight...should have more than a 16th and near an 8th at least...if it looks like its almost flat means they are way gone...need not only replaced, but you need to check the caliper bores as well and maybe refresh. Have someone push down on the rear of the bike and get the front wheel off the ground...spin it. it should spin freely, you should hear the brake pads lightly sing on the rotors, but it should be fairly even and very light...wheel should spin a few rotations...not stop quickly or hear the singing pulse. if it sings, means the rotor carriers are bent most likely, an indication of a crash or someone was hamfisted changing the front tire...not a good sign. same with the rear wheel and bike in neutral, cept it won't spin as much because of the chain drag...so listen to the rear brake for dragging caliper...should not drag too much...and have some meat on the pads. There's plenty more you could check, but that's some of what I try to go over...if you can get a test ride there's more to do/feel...but I would ride it without earplugs...you should hear the Pair system flapper opening and closing when you start out and come to a stop...the chain should sound smooth when idling and clutch in...taking off shouldn't be snatchy. It should snick into second gear, third etc...easily. braking should be straight. So the best tool and tip I have here is tip numero cero #0: Be prepared--do your homework on the bike and it's foibles and idiosyncrasies--plusses & minuses AND make a checklist of things to BRING and DO when you get there! Have a plan for how much you will knock off the price or three prices for Excellent, OK and bad bikes! Don't vary...be prepared to walk away and have no regrets when you do...there's always a bike in a shed somewhere else that's better cared for than this one and it probably cost less! Have Fun and be safe and do good, that's what its all about! Matt Sept 28, 2015

You can try to adjust it at the throttle body but it is cramped. Are these stock or ST1100?

thats' still pretty stylish...

Congrats! Looks great!

wow...drool...wow...

here's the thread where one guy does his F4I internals swap: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/53881-what-fork-oil-wt-with-f4i-internals-mod/ Posts #17 and #18 have some key issues noted with this "swap". You do retain "adjustability" but I think you don't have adjustability on the FLY if you swap the VFR forks with the F4i forks... Have fun and be safe. Matt FWIW I did the complete F4i swap on the front end of my 2000 5th Gen...I run 6th gen triples and use F4i forks, the 5th gen front wheel, F4i brakes, F4i MC and a F4i front fender. Here's the thread where I started asking...BTW I didn't document my swap very well...I'm not the greatest poster on the forum... http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/72069-6th-gen-f4-fork-swap-questions/ This post has a pic of a dude who had his innards swapped out by HK in Holland: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/69986-front-end-conversion-was-yours-worth-it/?p=830492 The think that's neat is they separated Rebound from Compression - one fork handles Reb and the other comp...so you can adjust both comp and reb on the fly instead of having to take internals out of both forks and adjust then put back in...

Love the hugger! and everything else too...

Always keep your eye out for a used Ohlins or Penske...love my Ohlins BTW... Best O luck. Matt

I used F4i forks (F4 is NOT the same) and 6th gen triple clamps. 5th gen wheel and spacers, 5th gen fender (F4i would be best). F4i caliper front, 5th gen rear with loop. F4i front and rear master brake master cylinders. De-linked the brakes. Re-valved the fork shim stacks as well. Seems to work nicer than stock with excellent adjustability on the fly. Matt

Neat never saw that...will have to do that a couple times a year.

By the way...having done this I have ZERO issues with the brakes pulsing...makes me wonder how many people ding/bend their rotor carriers in a fall or bumping against something and don't even realize it is not the Rotor warping...but the carrier pulling the rotor out of the plane and putting runout out of spec... These were bent more than a 10th of an inch (130 thousandths) peak to valley runout!!! now they are straight, straight, straight...darn cool. Thanks Hispanic Slammer Matt

So far I like the F4i using 6th gen triples onto my 5th gen. However, I only have 0.95 springs up front and I'm currently 235lbs...at the start of last year I was 255 lbss...so I'm gradually going toward the correct front spring rate for my weight...problem is I always ride (except trackdays) with Givi bags and a tank bag. The other thing that is now more apparent with the F4i forks is that I re-set the sag and set the comp and rebound in the middle of settings and I notice the rear end isn't following the front. Seems that the code on the Ohlins rear says the spring rate is stock...that HAS to change. I've ridden around this before and now how to manage this but I would be better suited and have a more stable bike tipping in and coming out of corners if the rear spring rate and fronts matched the bike well... If anyone knows someone in Northern Virginia who can swap out an Ohlins spring (must have the Ohlins style spring compressor tool) let me know...maybe that Ducati dealership in Winchester? Matt

buddy of mine had a bin of parts he bought...I needed new rotors (Galfers down the the min thickness were shot and pulsing horribly) and the price was more than fair. However, both were not in spec for runout. One was more than 1/8 inch (130 thou plus!...) out and the other around 50 thou out. I went and bought a Harbor Freight dial indicator and a magnetic base with adjustible arm for less than $30 and proceeded to do the suggested method above. I drilled a 5/16" hole in a c-clamp and the adjustable arm was bolted to the C-clamp and I clamped the thing down to the fork leg as in the description above. A 24 inch bar is probably about 6" to 12" too short...but I managed to budge the carriers of both back into spec...I could have done down to .001 runout, but it was around 1am when I finished (started at 10:30 PM) so I was toast...still satisfactory results...the only thing is that I needed to push the carrier out between 30 and 40 thou past zero to get it to come back in to zero...that's about the only difference. Here's the data for the left and right rotors before and after with some pics of the setup.

If you can afford it...like racers do, I'd change oil every weekend. Most people won't change early at 2000 miles. I use T6 and change at 6000...to each his own. I might get a package from Blackstone and do the test as this is a new bike to me...3000 the first time and 6000 the next...bike has 73k mi.

Very important to have the ability to measure rivet dimeter here as well. I second on overpriced tools. I've used a punch and drift...I'm good at it, wouldn't recommend it for most...this is even easier. Once every year or two is when I change changes, at most... If I put chains on multiple bikes or for my job is buy the tool, but not for once every couple years plus or minus... Matt