zupatun
-
Posts
515 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Gallery
Blogs
Downloads
Events
Posts posted by zupatun
-
-
Right hand side as-is:
and with gentle persuasion:
-
Left side as-is:
and with Persuasion:
-
Left rotor had about 7mils runout (0.007") and Right had about 6 mils runout. Afterward the Left is at +/-1mil runout and the Right around max 1.5mils runout. I'll ride this morning to check if the shudder I was experiencing braking is improved or not. IF NOT I'll be checking he head bearings and make sure the nut is torques correctly...if the shudder is gone I'll know I most likely bunged the rotors last couple times I changed tires.
Matt
-
I must have tweaked my carrier putting a tire on last year. I keep noticing it under hard braking...so it must not be too much. Putting the dial indicator on a stand and checking runout as I type. I'll post some numbers shortly.
-
Anyone know what color code and name of this orange?
-
Hi zupatun,
Thank you for your donation of 15.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.
Thanks VFRDiscussion
-
Excellent...I think it goes to figure that the aluminum carriers are easily tweaked...putting the steel rotor out of true...not necessarily an easy fix...but easier on the wallet to fix.
-
Looks like you'd need to do a de-link to the 2000, and use the CBR wheel as well (whole front end). Wondering what the Gemoetry looks like compared to 5th Gen Stock?
https://www.motorera.com/honda/h0800/intercep.htm
- CHASSIS / SUSPENSION / BRAKES
-
- Suspension: Front: 41mm HMAS cartridge fork with stepless spring preload adjustability; 4.7 inches travel
- Rear: Pro-Arm single-sided swingarm with Pro-Link-mounted, HMAS gas-charged shock with 7-position spring preload and stepless rebound damping adjustability; 4.7 inches travel
- Brakes: Front: Dual 296mm disc with LBS three-piston calipers
- Rear: 256mm disc with LBS three-piston caliper
- Tires: Front: 120/70ZR-17 radial
- Rear: 180/55ZR-I7 radial
-
DIMENSION
- Wheelbase: 56.7 inches
- Rake: (Caster Angle) 25.3'
- Trail: 95.0 mm (3.74 inches)
-
- Rake: (Caster Angle) 25.3'
- Trail: 95.0 mm (3.74 inches)
-
-
My 2000 has 97K miles...I'm 245lbs, ride with full bags and get 40-42mpg in touring mode.. On gas in the twisties 32-36mpg.
-
4 hours ago, SEBSPEED said:
Nitric/HF dip (full immersion) would be the best option for "ultimate" corrosion resistance with a bare/bright metal finish on this unsealed tubular construction.
Whether it is the best option for this run of headers remains to be seen. It could add a lot of cost if the parts have to be shipped in bulk to a chem processing facility and back again for distribution.
In reality it may not be overly important, as Honda themselves don't even do this - you can see the weld joints are the first place our headers usually start to rot. I was really just curious if there was a finishing process planned for them, and I went and complicated things from there. lol
1% HF and 12% HNO3 by weight could be painted on the welds...dipping the whole thing may not be necessary...
-
A lot of people used to think "made in Japan" meant junk...because at one time it was...nothing is static except death and taxes. Heck, even the Cleveland Browns won a game!
-
1
-
-
I fitted a chain oiler almost excactly like this dude, but I bought a cheap Chinese brake fluid resevoir for $14 (made very well IMO), some fuel line, a primer bulb for a two-stroke chain saw and it now oils my chain from the underside poking through my chain slider 8-10" before it hits the countershaft sproket instead of the rear sproket. Less fling and simple as pie. This video explains it. The bulb sits near my right thumb...NOT MY VIDEO...
-
Hi zupatun,
Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.
Thanks VFRDiscussion
-
When I bought my current VFR the PO decided to slap on a chain from China just to see how it performed....let's say, not well. Only a few thousand miles on it and when I bought it...it went from OK to slack to the eccentric run ALL the way out and wheel base maxed out. That was about 1500 miles after I bought it. I had to drop by a Kawi dealer in mid ride and have them install a factory Kawi chain because on uphill portions of the ride the chain would slip over hthe front sproket...I thought it was the altitude and the carbs were leaning out...then I remembered this bike DOESN"T HAVE CARBS! so I put two and two together and WOW chain on the deck...
Matt
-
The first 10,000 miles on the Ohlins are very nice...but you KNOW when it needs a re-build.
Matt
-
I cannot help. However, please change your title to something like: "FI system malfunction/Fueling problems--HELP!" this way the problem is specific in your subject title...you should get more help that way!
Matt
-
You can buy a VFR clutch cover, or ship yours (but you will have downtime) if he doesn't have one in stock. Regardless you have to ultimately provide the cover. He made one for me and shipped today and I'll swap mine (2000) and ship mine back to him shortly after it gets here.
Matt
-
I just want to quote the Sargeant from Stripes, my favoritest big toe and best buddy, and say "Lighten up Francis"'es...
-
That file is handy---keep a copy on my phone when I'm on the road. However, it is better for my brain to have a hard copy of the shop manual--don't care if I drop it or get it dirty when working on the bike. I like to have my options. I am CHEAP...but I spent a little money buying someones used manual. Worth the bucks to ship it to me.
Matt
-
On 4/16/2016 at 6:56 AM, JZH said:
You can use 15w oil, but as OEM spec is 5wt, that doesn't seem such a good idea to me!
Ciao,
I agree, unless you changed the valving, or are going like something with Race Tech Gold valves (which flow a lot more oil) keep the stock recommended oil weight for the stock valving...
Matt
-
This how-to thread should be of some use to you. it helped me out when I revalved the forks.
I used that thread as well. Very helpful.
Matt
-
I saw one on Dave's (from Massachusettes) red 1999 at WDGAH two weekends ago in Lebanon NH. 174 HP at test wheel via dyno....BEAST!
-
You can try to adjust it at the throttle body but it is cramped. Are these stock or ST1100?
Brakes - Warped Rotor Fix
in Maintenance Guides
Posted
these rotors aren't "warped" so to speak...the carriers are about 4mm thick stamped aluminum...and I've seen people hit curbing with them and bend hte carriers...whether they are "fragile" or not the carriers are pretty standard for japanese bikes and most people just plop down money as they have no way/idea on how to fix the issue. I've had these on the bike for 9 years and I got them REALLY bent second hand. BUT they had more meat on them than the stockers which had 76k miles on them. So, I swapped, bent and got them back into true. I probably bent tthem trying to break the bead (I do my own tires)...when the rim slipped a little on my bead-breaker--applying about a shit-ton of my weight on a lever trying to break the bead...a not so gentle treatment of the rotor/tire carrier. IF I look at the run-out--the data shows it to be out of plane--I'm just bring the disk all into alighment with the rotatioary plane of hte wheel.