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Stray

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Everything posted by Stray

  1. Looks like the 5th gen pumps about 240 CC/min whereas the 6th gen pumps 250 CC/min on average. I believe the 5th gen has a single hole whereas the 6th gen has a shower injector. That probably accounts for the difference.
  2. Thanks Mohawk. It’s a 4.9 for sure. Will have to take a punt on one of the 4.9 variants and see how it goes. I think the the only variable is cable length. You can get some with motorsport connectors but MTB uses the standard automotive plug. Thanks again Mohawk.
  3. Does anyone have a Bosch part number for the wide band O2 sensor that works with My Tuning Bike? I’ve lost the one that came with the kit and need to replace it. It’s a generic part and I’d rather not go to Dimsport as it costs twice as much from them. Could be this one but can not guarantee it: http://www.bosch-motorsport.com/media/catalog_resources/Lambda_Sensor_LSU_49_Datasheet_51_en_2779147659pdf.pdf Part number: 0 258 017 025 That’s what happens when you don’t install things in time and keep them stored away safely... Stray
  4. Wow, that’s fantastic mileage for a modded bike! Thanks for sharing, Stray
  5. I agree on all points. Must try the Araldite tip - sounds good. There are plastic pistons available, called Phenolic. Link here: https://www.frentech-uk.co.uk/products/phenolic-pistons/. Would save lots of heartburn (and landfill) if these were fitted as standard. Friend of mine worked for London Underground. There are rooms there built in the 1940s still running the original lightbulbs. He says they are ALWAYS left turned on! That was when lightbulbs were built to last forever. They now have a built-in obsolescence, just like our vehicles. Supermarket lightbulbs now scarcely survive 1-2 years. Mercedes Benz used to build cars with the view they would last forever. Then in the 80s they built cars to last 30 years. The last of those was a small C class in the late 1990s. They now build cars with a 15 year obsolescence. Most manufacturers go for 10 years or less. Throwaway culture also means mechanics no longer repair things - just replace. Lots of repair skills have been lost as a result. Very few people now know how to panelbeat, straighten rims, hone cylinders etc. There was a time when every neighbourhood had a machine shop and just about anything could be fixed. Anyway, thank God for Autosol and bits of old denim! Stray
  6. Hello All, Cleaned up the pitted pistons on a set of Nissin radial calipers from a Triumph Speed Triple (being fitted to the 5th Gen front end conversion). Process is the same whatever calipers you have. Pistons removed and you can see the corroded/filthy bits on the exposed portion of the piston lip. The exposed takes all the hearing/cooling/salt spray abuse and are not protected by the caliper. No surprise they look like sh!t. Dirty pitted one on the left. Polished one on the right. Pitted big piston on top. Method: lay some old material (denim works best) on a flat surface, apply some metal polish (I used Autosol) and rub the piston up-and-down along the corroded section. See the black streak in the picture above. This is really smooths down the burrs and the phosphoric acid in the polish helps the newly exposed metal form a protective oxide layer. Pitting will never be completely removed but it certainly gets smoother. Piston on the left was dangerously pitted and could easily have ripped a seal if pushed into the caliper. Now it is brought back into serviceable shape. Next, clean off the polish residues with brake cleaner and apply a dab of superglue on the worst pits. Superglue will adhere to the new oxide layer (and any remaining rust) to protect the areas where chrome has failed. Let the superglue dry for at least an hour as it takes ages when left open like this. Then run a new razor blade over the glue to remove the blobs that stick out. Scrape it both ways. Final rub down on a clean cloth to smooth everything out and you’re done! Good for another season. Caveat: a pitted piston will not be improved by this method - it will only get wise with time. Also, don’t rub too much of the existing chrome away as you will end up with failures elsewhere soon. Always install with a good amount of silicone grease/brake paste to prolong protection. I wonder why we still use steel pistons when anodised alloy and even better, plastic, could be used to better effect. Hope this helps someone out. Best, Stray
  7. Is that a 1098/1198 or 848 wheel? Looks wicked!
  8. Good job, Kev. Looks very neat. Yup, me too!
  9. Stray

    og dave 1995

    Is that a CBR subframe with GSXR tail?
  10. Candy, thanks for your thorough, detailed and intelligent response. I really appreciate it - top man! Looks like I’ll be getting a My Tuning Bike module from Liam on Monday. I’d love to have 4 but simply can’t justify it for a high-mileage 20 year old ride. Curious, would running premium fuel allow an extra degree of advance? I run premium most of the time anyway (keeps the fuel system nice and clean). There’s nothing like getting good info from someone who has used and studied the subject matter. Thanks again, Candy. Stray
  11. Thanks Mohawk, I am riding on your coat tails here. Your results with this module are the reason I got interested. Huge debt owed to you, both on this and other mods. Like you, I was hoping to mess with ignition advance but it is disappointing to hear your findings that only 3 degrees are available. Is that throughout the entire rev range or does it vary? If memory serves you got the my tuning bike kit with wide band sensors too, yes? As mine is a pre-sensor model I was wondering if I could weld two wide band sensors into the downpipe collectors and plug them straight into the Rapid Bike Racing unit WITHOUT the My Tuning Bike module. Will the RBR accept these directly? Hoping to save money here. As for saving money, the RBR unit is a poor choice even if moving it from bike-to-bike. The harness alone costs £130 (including tax and shipping). A new PC3 would be about the same!
  12. Description of my tuning bike module says their wide band sensor should be used IN ADDITION to the stock narrow band sensors. Their wide band should only be used alone on bikes that were not equipped with o2 sensors in the first place. My ‘98 has no sensors. I’ve been wondering if I should stick one in after the collector for the Rapid Bike Racing module or not. A single sensor is not ideal, however, as the rear cylinders run richer than the front. You’d need a different sensor for front and back. In the perfect world I’d install 2 wide bands with 2 my tuning bike modules but the cost would be insane. Cheaper option is just to install 2 narrow bands plugged straight into the RBR. Stray
  13. Thanks Cimaj. Harness alone is is going to cost me £130 with shipping. Sounds a bit expensive for a cable but I suppose it is a specialist item. These are not listed for sale - you have to ring them to order one. Liam explained that to begin with the unit has to be set up for a specific motorcycle. Only Dimsport suppliers can do that, he explained. Normally that costs £40 but he is doing it free as I’m buying the harness. After that you can freely play with maps from your online account. That’s as much as I understand. Have I got this wrong? Stray
  14. Got in touch with Performance Parts in the UK (new UK distributor) and Liam was brilliant on the phone. He is going to supply the harness and reprogram the unit. Result! Now I can join in the fun everyone else has been having (need to weld an o2 sensor into my ‘98 exhaust first though)... Stray
  15. Does anyone who bought a VFR wiring harness have one to sell? They don’t appear to be available via the link on page 1 (or anywhere else). I’ve got a Rapid Bike Racing unit (from a crashed BMW S1000) and want to try wiring it up to my 5th gen. I’m assuming all that is required is s remap and a harness? So so if anyone has a harness please get in touch! Thanks, Stray
  16. Stray

    Photobucket

    Top one looks like the stator/regulator rectifier connector, yes? If so, first check if the stator and RR are still alive and working properly. If not, replace the faulty parts. Then solder those wires together directly. No connector required at all. Was Mohawk’s suggestion to me when my RR died. That connector is part of the problem. Dont quite remember what what the bottom connector is, sorry. Stray
  17. Guess I’ll find out when I get there but you have to agree that nearly every kind of front end has been put on a VFR and no one has fallen off one yet (due to the front end, that is). If there’s something wrong with the Kawa ZX6R setup please let me know. There are RC51s, CBR600F4i, CBR600RRs, Suzuki TLs, GSXRs, R1s (plenty, with R1 yokes) and Hayabusas to name a few. That’s just the ones I’ve read about. I bet there are loads more. I’ve looked into rake and trail and don’t perceive any great difficulties there. After all a similar offset to the Kawasaki yokes has been used in other super sport conversions with no ill effects. Not too concerned about ride height because forks are long enough for my planned superbike bars (forks will slide down clamp further than on ZX6R), so will be close to stock. Spacers scare me on the axle. Machine them just a gnat’s hair out they will play merry hell with the bearings at high speed. Not nearly as much strain on steering stem. Anyway, I may press the VFR stem into the Kawa yokes just to make sure. I’m not an expert but get the feeling a lot of folks worry too much about rake/trail/ride height changes. In my younger days we used to drop the forks up to 3 inches through the clamps to quicken up steering on old race bikes. It also made forks stiffer (shorter forks flex less). Stem angle remains the same as that is down to headstock (although dropping forks does steepen the angle a small amount). Never had a problem then and don’t anticipate one now, but I’ve been wrong before. If you think my setup is flawed please let me know. I’d appreciate the input. Will see when I get there I guess. Stray
  18. I’ve got them on my other bike and they’re awesome. Legend is they are an old Brembo design from when Yamaha bought a stake in the firm.
  19. No, I’m going to try fit the complete ZX6R font on. It’s probably easier to change stem bearings and keep everything else from the same donor than mess about with spacers everywhere. Oddly enough, calipers are pretty interchangeable among Japanese radial bikes (most have 108mm centres I believe, whereas European bikes have 100mm). Everything else is a nightmare to swap, primarily because of rotor spacing, bolt pattern and size. Got parts coming in bits-and-pieces as couldn’t afford to buy a complete front end in one hit, which would have been the preferred option.
  20. There are are a few threads on here where R1 triples have been used successfully. Was going to go that route because it’s always best to match up all the components in the swap. Piecing it together would have been a pain as CBR triples have different fork gap to R1 and I’d be messing about with spacers to make wheel/calipers/axle/rotors fit. But now change of plans - just picked up some Kawasaki ZX6R 2007 radial forks. They were a steal so going to try fitting these. Just need to gather the other bits now (calipers, rotors, triples etc.). There are Suzuki, Yam and CBR front ends all over the place but mine might be the first Kwak! Stray
  21. Hello All, I’m after a late model R1 front end (2008-now) to graft onto my 5th gen. Based in England. Have posted under classifieds. Already have the 6 pot calipers and wheel - now need the rest (triples, rotors, axle and possibly brake master?). Lost some money on a set off eBay that we’re destroyed internally. Some reasonable eBay listings in US but shipping and taxes make it impossible. Can anyone help? Please message if you can. Thanks in advance, Stray
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