kaldek

Thanks mate, I really do appreciate comments like that!!

Good question! I bought the USA ECU (and wiring harness) as a cheap method of replacing my 2002 model ECU, because US bikes do not have HISS and therefore you don't need matching coded keys. What I wanted was to upgrade to the 2006 ECU over the 2002 unit, because of the benefits of the newer ECU hardware (better throttle response). After putting that ECU in, I had other issues still related to my 2002 motor which meant that in the end I bought an Aussie 2006 donor bike for parts and used the wiring harness and ECU from that bike. That bike brought its own problems - rich running - and I wanted to go back to testing the USA ECU I bought initially. Yes, I opened Pandora's box when I started twiddling. I just can't leave it alone!

Well folks, I finally worked out how to get a USA model ECU working on a Euro/Aussie 6th-gen VFR. Took me a while though as I had to map all the pins on each ECU until I found the culprit, but it's actually a very simple difference. Note that the following is only guaranteed on a 2006+ model bike. The USA ECU has two power inputs into it. They are both the Black/White wire 12 volt input from the engine stop relay, and one goes to the black connector while the other goes to the grey connector. The Aussie/Euro ECU only has one power input. It is also the Black/white wire but only goes to the black connector. In order to easily drop in a USA model ECU into a Euro Aussie bike, you will need to add a pin and wire to pin #16 on the grey connector, and then splice that wire into the black/white wire feed from the black connector. Once this is done, the bike will fire right up. Now, there's a small "gotcha" here. And that is the fact that you need to find a connector pin from somewhere! Unless you happen to have a bunch of wiring harnesses lying around (*cough* Kaldek *cough*), your only option will be to remove one of the pins used for the HISS circuit and move that pin and wire across to pin #16 on the white connector. I haven't traced exactly which ones of these is the best source, but once I do I will add that to this post, along with some pics. :-) If you plan on only making this a temporary modification, I would put a switch on the spliced wire feed into Pin #16 so you can safely cut that circuit before you connect an Aussie/Euro ECU back into the wiring harness. If you don't do this, I guess there is a chance that you could create an internal short circuit inside the ECU (which would be bad).

I would say this job is only cheap if you just focus on the front master cylinder and the five pistons (three right, two left) it activates. There are kits available for this job which are very cheap ($119 AUD), and consist of a long banjo bolt for the front master cylinder and two hoses - one to each caliper. Essentially that would take care of the majority of braking problems right there.

No, each pic that I zoomed into I pulled the hose straight.

Clutch line.

LOL, OK OK I'll go do that!

For anyone wanting to replace their 6th-gen hoses with braided lines, here are some pictures of all the hoses and their lengths. Note that if you wish to replace the CBS hoses you will need to interface your new hoses with the blocks which interface with the rigid hoses that connect from the front to the rear of the bike. Right Front Caliper Hoses (Warning - needs T-piece and extra hose for right-to-left crossover at least 10 inches long OR needs two hoses from master cylinder to right and left calipers) Left Front non-CBS (main) hose Left front CBS hoses (connects to rigid hoses) WARNING - SPECIFIC TO 2006 AND NEWER BIKES ONLY. 2002-2005 HOSES SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT LENGTHS. Rear pedal hose Rear caliper hoses

Not a prob I'll get those sent out tomorrow.

Sure mate - yours for $8 shipped (they cost me $3.80 each so that'll cover them and postage). I'll PM you so you can give me your address and you can Paypal me the buckeroos.

Timing. Ordering pre-cut keys was one less step needed to get the job done, otherwise it would have been waiting for postage and then having to go see a key cutter. I only trust locksmiths and there aren't any nearby, so it would have eaten up a lot of my time to get it done.

I was going to post this as an appendix to an existing "How to replace your thermostat" thread, but there doesn't appear to be one! Ah well, enjoy.

They will only work if there is a space for the transponder. I have a spare eight transponders mate so you're welcome to a couple of them for a few bucks. Bear in mind this key is a true blank and you will have to pay to have it cut. If you use the guys I did in the UK they can cut the key based on a high-res photo of the original. I got two keys cut and delivered for $38 AUD in total, and then I just put the transponders in myself. Here's the link to the guys in the UK: http://www.ebay.com....#ht_1573wt_1396 You could also contact them directly. The business website is http://keysinthepost.com. I have no complaints and they were extremely helpful when I discovered I needed to buy some transponders.

Righto those new chips worked a charm! I now have a spare 8 transponders for anyone who wants some. I have a YouTube video showing the process as written up by zRoYz being uploaded right now too.

The '06 and newer bikes still have a weak 30-amp connector, just beefier wiring than the earlier bikes. Essentially there's a wiring connector (one potential source of resistance), followed shortly by a non weather-proof fuse holder (another potential source of resistance). This whole area can corrode, which causes resistance. Resistance causes heat, which can make the fuse holder, wires, and fuse itself overheat and melt. When this happens, you can get heat-induced circuit breaks where the bike will just trip out on you suddenly and then power will come back. This is common behaviour for a high resistance connection. Anyway, this isn't likely to be your cause of poor charging. You need to hook a voltmeter up to the bike while its running - most likely your regulator or stator is dead or on the way out. What stator tests did you perform? The only valid test is the one where you check the AC voltage with the bike running. As always, follow the Electrosport fault finding diagram. It is THE source for finding charging issues. http://www.electrosp...ing-diagram.pdf

Hey folks I found a source for the transponder chips and have ordered a batch of ten for $38 AUD. Only 90% sure they'll work for now but when they arrive I will let you know. The chips are marked as "ID46" transponders, pre-coded to Honda. These chips look to be used by many manufacturers and they need to be pre-coded to that manufacturer or it won't work. Here's the link: http://www.auobd2.co...cs-lot-164.html

Try swapping motors - once you've done that, changing the air filter is something you do with your eyes closed. Man, the number of times I've had the airbox off my bike....

OK, so that didn't work. My two spare keys arrived today and I put my existing transponders in them. When programming the keys, the HISS light flashed like so: Short Flash Short Flash Long Flash Pause Long Flash It did this for both of the old transponders in the new keys. After removing the ghetto lead, the new keys did not work. It seems to say on other forums that the programming phase actually DOES write to the key's memory with the ECU's unique password. Ergo, it looks like only blank transponders will work unless there is a way an existing transponder can be overwritten. Looks like the keys that come with chips in them may me the only viable solution?

That wax unit is definitely stuffed - it doesn't seem to be doing much of anything really! Rode to work and back for the first time today (55 mile round trip) and had no problems. Something else interesting though is that using my existing thermostat in the new motor the ECT reports 82 degrees C running temp rather than 76 degrees on the old motor. Only difference is I'm running only water at the moment which I'll flush out and replace with coolant once I fix the wax unit.

Never seen that before. When you were adjusting the screw could you see the pistons moving at all, or even the idle adjustment plate move?

Alrighty, a cold start test has just shown that by replacing the thermostat I've cured the excessive richness at startup. Yay me! I think the fast idle wax unit might be a bit weak though, as while it runs OK the idle is too low when cold - holding open the idle valves improves it so I do believe the problem is around that area. Maybe there's some air in the lines still. Easy enough to test and clean thankfully.

I'm at the point where unless you ask me to split the crankcases, I kinda shrug my shoulders and get into it.