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VFR78

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Everything posted by VFR78

  1. Looks like it might be easy to get the front wheel up, on that Hardly Driveable. A tank slapper in someone’s future.
  2. It is sad to see it end, but I fully understand the reasons. Have a rest now and enjoy the mighty KTM. All the best from Sydney.
  3. They do all get flat in the middle, unless you only ride in the twisties. It’s a gradual change, so we all get used to the handling. A new set of tyres highlights the change. I take my tyres to the wear strips too.
  4. Not really, it’s reasonably straightforward. The lines are very stiff, so you need to fit them pretty loosely, before you tighten them up. I used flair nut spanners to loosen the old connections to the ABS unit, but open enders to tighten things up. They are Frentubo lines, supposedly used on the LCR GP bikes, and are significantly cheaper than HEL and Galfer, but, they do have multiple flare connections at the RHS caliper, which is probably not ideal. The Hel lines have a crimped/permanent union at that point, which might be better and make installation a bit simpler.
  5. The braided lines. Before anyone says “why that colour”, it was a moment of madness, that I regretted as soon as they landed at the front door.
  6. “Pressure causes any air bubbles to reduce in size, making it easier for them to rise up through the brake lines. Have never done this myself but am told it does work.” The issue with the Gen 8 is that there are a couple of high points in the braking circuit, so air in the abs unit or in the line joining the left and right calipers does not have anywhere to rise to. Unlike say racing/twin line connections directly to the master cylinder from the calipers. I think the real solution might be bleed, bleed and then bleed again!
  7. I’ll give it another try, after a few more kms, to let everything settle down.
  8. Front done, rear yet to be attempted, given I need to take the back of the bike apart, to get to three separate lines. Vacuum bled the lines and result was a bit spongy. Re-bled using the tried and tested old method, still not ideal, but marginally better than the OEM lines. There are a myriad of connections in the lines, so there are plenty of places for air to get trapped. When I put braided lines on my old non ABS Hornet, the lever was rock hard, with instantaneous braking. Maybe the ABS unit has some softening effect. I tried the rubberband/zip tie trick on the lever, for a day, without any success. I can’t understand how that would really work, so wasn’t expecting much. The bike is a G8, like the forum.
  9. That rivet link looks like it might be a bit tight.
  10. KTM Super Duke 1290 GT is the go. Big tank, big power, single sided swing arm, big presence and only two spark plugs.
  11. Thanks Skids, I hope “You’ll be fine” isn’t the “kiss of death”. As a mechanic, I make a great surveyor!
  12. Thanks for all your help ShipFixer. I had read about all of your pain last year and are praying that it won’t be the same for me. My bike is a Gen 8, so hopefully the flare nuts will be less inclined to be stuck. I won’t plan any rides, once I start, just in case I never finish.
  13. I have just purchased (received in 8 days Naples/Sydney) a full set of Fren Tubo Type 2 braided brake lines and front Brembo pads, for the Viffer. After 8 plus years, and over 90,000 kms, I figured a refresh of the old lines could not hurt. The cost was about 20% cheaper than buying OEM in OZ. The brake lines include replacements for the rubber lines to the rear caliper and in the ABS circuit, so the whole replacement process going to be a bit of a faff. Any advice regarding possible “bear” traps would be most appreciated. My biggest concern is with the ABS modulator circuit and whether it will end up with air in it and get out of sorts or should a simple bleed fix that.
  14. Just about to launch into the same work myself, but seriously considering getting a new bearing carrier complete and refurbishing the old one for future servicing. Rear end is still good, but after rebuilding the front, I figured why not do it all. A two sided swing arm sure has its benefits.
  15. My 8G has 88,000km on it and the clutch is still feeling fine.
  16. That is about $2500 AUD, about half the value of my bike as it is, not including shipping to Oz. It would be great to have one, but it’s a bit much for this retiree.
  17. Hi VFR78, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  18. What significant preventative maintenance have you done to get to there?
  19. Thanks Ducnut. I had noticed the dodgy merge, but getting the VFRD headers all the way to OZ, at an unknown cost and timeframe, had me looking at the Delkevic. The full Delkevic system, muffler included, is only about $550 USD on “Fleabay” in Oz. I guess that all the Delkevic does is remove the cat, without considering a tuned layout. Maybe best just to stick to OEM with Arrow slip on. Its lasted 74,000km,so far.
  20. Are they better than the Delkevic? What is the cost? How much extra tuning is needed to make them work well? Might be interested!
  21. Front end refresh at 73,500km. New tapered roller headset and fork seals etc. Nothing wrong just felt it was time. 9,000km ride coming up in October.
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