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JZH

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Everything posted by JZH

  1. Yer, but, no, but, yer... That's for an RC46, which is quite a different kettle of fish, compared with an RC36. The bearing carriers are different diameter, for one. It should be possible to do it, just not with that kit. Ciao, JZH
  2. It may help, but don't think it will keep your digits warm if they're dangling in the breeze at 160km/h. I have heated grips on my ST1300, but they're not what I rely upon when it's really cold (one reason being that I normally ride with at least some of my fingers covering the brake lever). Heated GoreTex gloves are my luxury items of choice. Mine are made by Tucano Urbano (Hot Road), but similar battery/wired goves are available from Gerbing and Alpinestars, among others. Ciao, JZH
  3. The RC36's fork spacing is approx. 22mm narrower than the SP2's fork spacing, so unless the latter's wheel is 22mm wider (or the discs have radically less offset), that ain't gonna work. And that's ignoring the axle/bearing problem... Ciao, JZH
  4. I'm afraid that bike hasn't run with or without the COPs... ISTR some discussion somewhere involving the way the coils were wired, on different Hondas, and lost sparks, which could explain why the COPs have different resistance ratings. Good luck with your testing! Ciao, JZH
  5. Looks like a Baglux/Bagster. I actually owned a VF500F for a few weeks on my very first trip to Europe, before I traded it in for a Kawasaki GT750 (yes, I know...) and I remember trying to get some sort of tank bag to fit over that silly fuel tank wart. My high-tech solution was to get a 1/2" camping foam mattress, cut a hole in it and strap down a rucksack using a bungee cargo net! Maybe if I'd found one of those "Five Stars" GiVi racks I'd have kept the VF for the trip, but I was concerned about luggage and touring on a chain-driven bike (which was, essentially, my first bike). Ciao,
  6. That rear hub has to go! NC30 sprocket carriers are interchangeable with the RC30 (which had a black version, rather than the gold one on the NC35), but of course, you'll need an axle, and a centre-nut wheel.... I'm not building a replica of anything, but I enjoy showing people how little discernible progress I make on my own bike projects. Here's a pic from 2016: (It still looks like that.) The swing arm on my bike is from an RC30, which are not easy to find, unfortunately. An NC30 swing arm might fit, but it's probably quite a bit shorter than the OEM arm (I don't have the measurements to hand). However, it would solve a lot of problems. Good luck. Ciao,
  7. I bet the crowd did roar at that...briefly! Dovi was ready for it, though. Sounds like you had a great time--and fantastic weather, too. ㊗️ Ciao,
  8. That's the one--thanks, both. I saw an eBay ad for one recently (but not the pn. view) and it definitely looked like a Denso CoP. The Denso part numbers all begin with 127900, but 5370 is not one I've seen before (or measured). It looks like a CBR1000RR CoP, which is pn. 5150 (which is the same length as a 4400), but the grommet appears to be significantly wider--which would help "internal" sealing in larger valve cover openings. Here is a picture of a 5150: And here is the 5370: Now, if they only sold the grommets separately... Ciao,
  9. Anyone know which Denso pn. the VFR1200 uses? Ciao,
  10. Ah, yes, I see now. Misano is in September...so you do have enough time to ride there, lol... Ciao,
  11. Looked under the cover. Saw a very flaky OEM exhaust collector box. The rear clamp had rusted through and sprung open. Removed the remaining pieces by hand. Shook head. Put cover back... (Fortunately, I have a spare Predator/Motad header and an Enutniats high-level slip-on for the bike, which will now be installed chop chop so I can get the bike MOT'd next weekish.) Ciao,
  12. True, but he said he wants to repaint the spring, so presumably he would prefer to not have the new paint gouged by hose clamps? Ciao,
  13. Yes, with a spring compressor! I have one, so I don't know if there are any cheap bodges that might work (in between killing you and random passers by), but a bike shop nearby might be willing to pull the spring off for you. It's a 5-10min job. Ciao,
  14. No, I'm not talking about the CoP engaging with the spark plug--this works the same as with the OEM spark plug boots. The CoP certainly needs to engage those threads fully. I'm talking about what VFROZ is talking about, which is sealing the top of the valve cover so that water doesn't get in and cause mischief down by the spark plug (or get into the engine when said spark plugs are removed). Ciao,
  15. Kev, I'd have to dig my CoP stash out of it's hiding place to check, but my notes say that the 5100s are long, externally sealed and have a "long grommet--old style". I don't exactly remember what I meant by that, but my notes also say that the 4800s are the same, but have a "short grommet--old style". I think that refers to the depth the grommet/seal extends within the spark plug hole, but I don't know off hand if it is significant. However, the '08 CBR1000RR uses 5150s, which are short, internally sealed and "new style", so I wouldn't consider them the same as the 4800s or 5100s. I have several different CoPs which I measured, but the rest I verified from photos in eBay listings. The issue I have with the Honda CoPs is that they all seem to be internally sealed, so the ID of the spark plug hole needs to be the right size, or the grommet won't seal. The internal seal does not seal on the 3rd gen, but maybe the 5th gen's spark plug holes are smaller? Ciao,
  16. The 5th gens in the rest of the world use 55/60w bulbs, so unless Honda downgraded the wiring harness just for the US bikes (to save weight?!), there should be no issue whatsoever. But if you're the kind of person who worries about that kind of thing, you may not like the usual "bodge" mentioned above re bending the tabs. H4 bulb tabs are positioned to precisely locate the bulb, and therefore the bulb filaments, relative to the reflector, so bending them or removing them is likely to have an effect on the filament position. Probably not noticeably, however, as reflector headlight systems do not appear to be all that precise to begin with. There are "H4 shims" available, but this is also not exactly an ideal solution because they force the entire bulb to be located several mm rearwards from the OEM position. You might be able to modify the headlight reflectors instead, but this would require splitting the headlight unit (using an oven) to allow the reflectors to be removed and worked on. Which is why most people just bend the tabs! Ciao,
  17. Ko-ken...good Japanese brand, that. They used to make the only 13mm spark plug socket available (for the NC30/NR750 mini-plugs). Looking good. No, great! Ciao,
  18. Just an FYI, but the RC36 petrol tap is even simpler than that, and is easier to rebuild, because it uses (or can use) standard o-rings, although the special seal on yours is widely available from NRP and elsewhere. Ciao,
  19. I've been a VFR forum participant long enough to see this particular scenario play out more than once. Model-specific sub forums are great for sharing model-specific information and problems, but they also facilitate the formation of little cliques (especially regarding the "latest" generation, for some reason). That's life! Ciao,
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