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pseal

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    http://www.payneseal.com/
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  • Location
    Columbia, SC
  • In My Garage:
    98 VFR, 03 Ninja 250, 2012 NC700X

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  1. I now have an R1 R/R on my VFR! I bought one off eBay for $40 shipped; took a little while to come in, because the seller mixed up my R/R with another buyer's stator hub, so we had to swap packages. Installed it Sunday and took it for a good hour-long test yesterday. I don't have an onboard voltmeter, so I connected my multimeter to the battery and stashed it in the map pocket of my tankbag so I could read it while riding ... I really ought to install a voltmeter ... 14.4V solid the whole way! And when I got home I put my Battery Tender on it as a test, since that was what keyed me into there being a problem (after recently installing a new battery, twice following an hour-long ride it took a few hours to get back to full charge), and now it was back to full charge in about 2 minutes. :-) Pretty easy install. Hacksawing the fins wasn't too bad, and I went slow with my wiring to make sure I had good connections. Crimped and heatshrinked the connectors and used butt-connectors with heat-shrink for the 2-into-1 wires (12ga in, 2x14ga out). R/R barely warm to the touch after an hour, and the wires showed no heat at all (was initially a little concerned about the 2x14ga instead of 2x12ga, but the 2 12ga wires just WOULD NOT go into the butt connector. But, 2x14ga has more cross-sectional area than than 1x12ga, so should be good.) Now time to plan a trip! New rear tire, new chain and sprockets, new battery, and an R/R that I can count on! Payne
  2. Got one off of eBay headed my way! One more quick question - what is the preferred method to combine two wires into one, for the purpose of connecting the one positive and one negative wires of the R/R to the bike's two of each? Thanks, Payne
  3. Thank you for taking the time to answer, Chris! That is a big help. Regards, Payne
  4. Hey Chris, Thanks for taking the time to document your R/R upgrade; I plan to do the same. Would you mind answering a couple of questions? You specify an 04-06 R1 R/R; is an 03 not suited for this use? Also, you state that you use gold spades to connect; did you just crimp them, or did you solder them? Did you connect the two red wires to one, and then spade, and likewise for the two greens? I wonder if snipping the connectors from the old R/R (assuming they're not cooked) and splicing to them would be wise (so as not to alter the bike's wiring harness) - or is it wiser to take those connectors out of the equation? Thanks! Payne
  5. pseal

    Payne's Photos

    Payne's Photos
  6. Page 19-11 in the service manual shows 5 (as well as the two for turn signal indicators.) Payne
  7. D'oh. Dumb me; the first two are red and amber only. Payne
  8. What's that funny C and km, eh? :P Looks very nice. Might do that myself. Thanks for the photos! How much did each cost? On the following product page, the top three all appear similar, with prices of 0.89, 0.79, and 1.49; just wondering exactly which ones you got. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/sto...8.26576&next=50 Thanks Payne
  9. You want the arrows pointing up and toward the rear. So, from the left (sprocket) side of the bike, rotate ~120? clockwise. I didn't move the fork tubes, and the bike feels the same to me as before, so I'll probably leave them as they are. I'm pleased with the results. Can't beat the price (free!), and the drop is noticeable, but not drastic. Very quick and easy to do (though the bolts took a ton of force to break loose), and completely undoable. I found that this increased the sag, so I bumped the preload up a couple of clicks. I'm a little nervous at how upright the bike sits on the sidestand, but I think it'll be OK. Cheers to Ratfink for pointing this out to us! Payne
  10. I measured my "triangle" and found the following: AB and AC are equal, and BC is shorter than both of those. Which two points should the shorter dimension connect in order to accomplish this lowering? Thanks, Payne border='0' alt='user posted image' />
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