Marvelicious

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Well... It wouldn't have been entirely altruistic... I would have been insisting on cutting in line for a header to come back with the pipe... It just would have been a good excuse to not put it off!

If it weren't prime riding weather, I might consider pulling the Leo's off and sending them in return for a slight discount on the header...😉 ...but it's WAY too nice out to have the bike out of commission!

Just an opinion from the cheap seats... It looks to me like #2 would have sealed fine and #1 would have worked if it were torqued. #3 and #4 failed mostly because of the seams... Take a look at the fit in this post... It's your money, but after spending that kind of dough on a performance header, I'd really hesitate to create a restriction with an exhaust gasket! Just my 2 cents... it always seems easier when you're not the guy on hands and knees cussing the parts that don't want to fit like you think they should.

I've tried that, but those guys with the lights on top of their cars get really mad at me...

For my purposes, it's entirely about heat management. These bikes, especially the 6th gen, are known to run on the hot side and have electrical issues. Since the radiators, R/R, electrical connections, etc... would all be happier in a cooler environment, the idea of keeping every bit of heat inside the pipe you can seems like a good one to me. I've considered getting my stock 6th gen header coated for just these reasons. Anyhow, it was mentioned earlier in the thread, but was recommended against by the fabricator. I'm sure he has his reasons, and from his point of view they are probably very good reasons. If I had put the work into a set of pipes that he obviously has here, I wouldn't be eager to recommend that Billy Bob cover them with goo he bought off the interweb. Anyhow, I apologize if this was perceived as a thread hijacking. I've said my piece and believe my reasoning to be sound.

Cracking due to thermal fatigue would be the damage mechanism here... so they wouldn't rot the like mild steel pipes, but garbage nonetheless. Incidentally, 304 stainless is theoretically rated for 1600°F, though thermal fatigue is more prevalent when there is a large thermal gradient. I know there are blasting nozzles that are designed for 360° use inside pipe, but I would be curious to understand their application methods before pulling the trigger.

So, not to beat a dead horse here, but I guess I'm a little dubious of the total dismissal of ceramic. I'll admit, you'd be better off without than having a poor job done, so maybe he's protecting himself from poor workmanship from a 3rd party - which is understandable. With ceramic, like all coatings, there is a lot in proper application, and there are definitely some shady types in the business. The reputable shop in my area routinely coats headers both inside and out. A properly applied coating inside the header seems likely to make up the difference in retained heat and the potential to drop the external temperature of the headers by 600 degrees has got to be worth considering... that's a lot of heat that is now flowing out the pipes and no longer trapped inside your fairings! If nothing else, your R/R may thank you at the next red light you sit through! Quote from Hotrod.com Note: Admittedly, probably not the most impartial source you could find, but if they were really trying to sell the snake oil, they would have managed to find some magical horsepower in there somewhere... Take it for what it's worth (talk is cheap, comments on the internet are cheaper...) but if I decide I feel rich enough to spring for the headers, mine will probably get coated as well.

Ah, see... I bought my bike with Leo Vince cans and a Power Commander, I did the shock last year (DMR), forks the year before... Upgraded to a modern r/r... Custom seat... Running out of low hanging fruit!

I've got an '06. Honestly, I have done most of the things to this bike I'm interested in doing (mostly reliability stuff) but a high performance exhaust is pretty tempting. I've got the money in savings where I could buy it at the moment, but that money didn't wind up there by making those sorts of choices!

So... are these likely to stay in production for any length of time, or is it more of a "get in line now or regret it forever" situation? I ask because I missed this thread when it started, and now is a relatively tight moment, financially. It's not completely out of the question, but 6 months from now $800 would be a lot easier to come by.

Grips? Oury. Seriously love these. http://www.ourygrips.com/oury-road-grip-with-flange/

I like it... I was just thinking the other day (coming down a long twisty hill) that I wanted better grip with my knees. I may have to make a set.

A bit of thread necro, but I recently installed their new version (Cameleon Oiler Plus). Apparently they've improved the programming menu and they've given it the ability to adjust the oiling rate with temperature. I routed mine inside the chain guard and it hides quite well. I took a 700 mile trip this week and it works like a charm. This may be the best way to keep a chain lubed outside of an enclosed chain.