Marvelicious

This is like finding out someone you know is a furry... I don't have a problem with it, but don't expect me to understand! 

I used racetech fork springs, f4i cartridges and Jamie's rear shock. It took a shit load of head scratching and a lot researching old posts to get the damping right on those cartridges and I feel like I got lucky to get what I did as quickly as I did. The two options as I see it are - spend money, or use a lot of time and maybe get lucky and not spend quite as much money. I wish I could give you better advice, but even the shortcut isn't cheap. 

19 hours ago, GreginDenver said:

And... and... and... and...

 

When you add the MicroSquirt ECU you can also implement full ignition control, which allows you to custom tune the timing and dwell of the ignition coils.  The OEM Honda ignition settings are really on the conservative side, there's more ignition advance that can be tuned into the bike without hurting anything.  I installed "stick coil" (coil-on-plug) ignition on my EFI project bikes.  The DENSO corp stick coils that Honda used on the CBR600RR were perfect for my projects.

I've followed the Megasquirt project since its early days and it has come a LONG way. It's really an amazing piece of gear. I've occasionally considered using it in place of my 6th gen ecu/power commander to get full tune-ability, but then I come to my senses and realize I have a perfectly running bike and enough other projects to last 3 lifetimes. First: do no harm. 

I'm having a difficult time picturing what you're talking about as well... Are you talking about the actual threaded nipple that the filter screws onto having a hex? 

Personally, I'm not particularly a fan of paying a premium to Honda for products that are identical to things I can get more conveniently for less money. Oil filters, fluids and the like... Do what you like... You certainly won't go wrong with OEM, but a little homework can save you money and time. 

As for K&N, let's just say their marketing department is a lot better than their R&D department! 

I've got RaceTech springs in my forks. I used their recommended spring (for my weight on a VFR) with custom damping, and they feel excellent. Getting the spring right is the first piece in the puzzle, but you have to get the damping right as well. Of course, getting the front end right just highlighted the problems with the rear... I'm using one of Jamie's shocks on that end. It all works together and getting it right isn't cheap, but the end result was huge for me... I'm pretty big though, so the stock suspension was seriously out of its comfort zone. 

I truly appreciate this kind of info. I'm pretty brand agnostic when it comes to parts. If it fits and works, it's the right part! 

1 hour ago, Duc2V4 said:

I’m always thinking “Mama Mia!”

I do like those stands. A buddy and I both have those HF lifts and we both have the same problem: a long term project has more or less put down roots on them and various parts and other sundry have accumulated. They're a good lift for the money (at least for what I paid... they've gotten expensive since then), but that Skylift looks a lot more suited for normal maintenance tasks.

I texted a link to my buddy as well and he's been sending me ABBA lyrics back for the last hour...

12 minutes ago, Duc2V4 said:

If you’re like me and do pretty much all your own maintenance and service, then the ABBA Skylift is awesome

I'd be afraid of having "Dancing Queen" stuck in my head while trying to do maintenance. 

Hi Marvelicious,

Thank you for your donation of 10.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

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You have a Kawasaki Vulcan and you want to wrap the frame?

This seems like a pretty weird place to ask, since this is a forum dedicated to Honda's V4 sport bikes. That said, I'm with Terry! 

Does he ever get to the point? I'm 7 minutes in and I haven't heard anything but basics yet.

Edit: 15 minutes and he still hasn't convinced me, or presented any information that I wasn't already familiar with. I get that the bobbins don't need to spin, but I'm not trying to make them spin, I'm trying to clean crud out of the gap. A couple of twists with a socket wrench will do it... (I'm with him that spinning them with a drill is stupid).

Well, it ran out in the background while I typed this and he still hasn't convinced me, but make up your own mind... I mean, he's wearing a riding jacket to make his video, so obviously he knows what he's talking about.

Very much agreed on cars... motorcycles may be more of a mixed bag. The difference with bikes is that the discs are much thinner and far more exposed. Realistically, warped is a bit of a mis-characterization... more like tweaked, and as has been noted, it is probably the carrier that is the issue. 

Also, anyone who is concerned that they may have compromised the integrity of their parts: rather than X-ray as zRoYz mentioned, dye penetrant is an excellent form of non-destructive testing and can be performed at home. Completely unnecessary for brake discs unless you've really hammered your parts, but if you need something to make you feel better this would find the cracks that won't be there. Pretty useful stuff for the gear head when looking at parts of unknown history (heads, pistons, connecting rods, cranks...). The test isn't difficult (YouTube it...) and it's available at welding shops.

This is interesting... I don't have any dragging brake discs, but spinning the bobbins is an interesting thought.

Despite the misgivings of some on here, the point of the bolt is not to "compress" the bobbin. It's just used as a way to grip the bobbin so that you can turn it and clear any trapped debris. It actually works quite well, though I'm sure EBC would just as soon sell you new rotors. If you're having to apply real force, you have a problem beyond the scope of this method.

The 6th gen has cartridge forks, they just lack some external adjustments that are available on flagship models. I believe the intent of Jamie's cartridge upgrade is to have a drop-in cartridge that he will custom valve for you. I can tell you from experience that between custom shim stacks, modifying valving and myriad oil options, fork valving is a complicated subject!

I can't speak to Jamie's own shocks, but based on the magic he worked on the shock he revalved for me, I'm sure they're excellent.

Hi Marvelicious,

Thank you for your donation of 10.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

2 minutes ago, sfdownhill said:

 

Thanks! It's super cool of you to consider loaning us a set of pipes as nice as your Leos. We did manage to get the 6 gen onto the dyno, and the associated muffler project was a trip which will be detailed in a separate thread soon.

Well... It wouldn't have been entirely altruistic... I would have been insisting on cutting in line for a header to come back with the pipe... It just would have been a good excuse to not put it off! 

On 1/1/2019 at 12:17 AM, sfdownhill said:

Duc2V4 and I are looking for a set of used 6th gen performance slip-on midpipe/mufflers to purchase, borrow, or have donated for use dyno test/tuning the prototype new VFR800 performance header. Our test 6th gen has gutted OEM mid pipe/mufflers, and those won't flow enough exhaust gas to take best advantage of the new header.

A cosmetically damaged 6th gen slip-on would be great if fully functional. Any brand or model that is open flowing is fine; Two Brother Racing, Delkevic, Micron, Leo Vince, Akrapovic, Scorpion, Staintune, etc

We would prefer to accept a generous donation or loan and will pick up in southern California or pay for shipping [pay shipping both ways if the slipon is a loan], but we are willing to purchase.

WE ARE NOT PICKY. Thanks for considering this.

If it weren't prime riding weather, I might consider pulling the Leo's off and sending them in return for a slight discount on the header...😉

...but it's WAY too nice out to have the bike out of commission!

Just an opinion from the cheap seats... It looks to me like #2 would have sealed fine and #1 would have worked if it were torqued. #3 and #4 failed mostly because of the seams... 

Take a look at the fit in this post... 

It's your money, but after spending that kind of dough on a performance header, I'd really hesitate to create a restriction with an exhaust gasket!

Just my 2 cents... it always seems easier when you're not the guy on hands and knees cussing the parts that don't want to fit like you think they should.

1 hour ago, ScottieDucati said:

Hey I mean if heat’s an issue just ride faster


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I've tried that, but those guys with the lights on top of their cars get really mad at me...

43 minutes ago, ScottieDucati said:

Or temperature mitigation.


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For my purposes, it's entirely about heat management. These bikes, especially the 6th gen, are known to run on the hot side and have electrical issues. Since the radiators, R/R, electrical connections, etc... would all be happier in a cooler environment, the idea of keeping every bit of heat inside the pipe you can seems like a good one to me. I've considered getting my stock 6th gen header coated for just these reasons. 

Anyhow, it was mentioned earlier in the thread, but was recommended against by the fabricator. I'm sure he has his reasons, and from his point of view they are probably very good reasons. If I had put the work into a set of pipes that he obviously has here, I wouldn't be eager to recommend that Billy Bob cover them with goo he bought off the interweb. 

Anyhow, I apologize if this was perceived as a thread hijacking. I've said my piece and believe my reasoning to be sound.

7 hours ago, Funkotron said:

Maybe there's another way to do it, but if the entire inside can't be internally coated, I'm not sure I want to take the risk of having these headers rot out like my current ones.
 

Cracking due to thermal fatigue would be the damage mechanism here... so they wouldn't rot the like mild steel pipes, but garbage nonetheless. Incidentally, 304 stainless is theoretically rated for 1600°F, though thermal fatigue is more prevalent when there is a large thermal gradient.

I know there are blasting nozzles that are designed for 360° use inside pipe, but I would be curious to understand their application methods before pulling the trigger.

On 1/4/2019 at 2:35 AM, sfdownhill said:

...

I did ask him about ceramic coating the headers, and he strongly recommend not ceramic coating them, because the high heat retained by the coating beings a degradation process on the stainless steel He pointed out that the TBR headers show signs of having been run lean enough long enough to begin very slight damage. The surface of the headers have a light surface roughness and coloration because of being subjected to higher than optimum heat.

So, not to beat a dead horse here, but I guess I'm a little dubious of the total dismissal of ceramic. I'll admit, you'd be better off without than having a poor job done, so maybe he's protecting himself from poor workmanship from a 3rd party - which is understandable. With ceramic, like all coatings, there is a lot in proper application, and there are definitely some shady types in the business. 

The reputable shop in my area routinely coats headers both inside and out. A properly applied coating inside the header seems likely to make up the difference in retained heat and the potential to drop the external temperature of the headers by 600 degrees has got to be worth considering... that's a lot of heat that is now flowing out the pipes and no longer trapped inside your fairings! If nothing else, your R/R may thank you at the next red light you sit through!

Quote from Hotrod.com Note: Admittedly, probably not the most impartial source you could find, but if they were really trying to sell the snake oil, they would have managed to find some magical horsepower in there somewhere...

Quote

The coated headers measured 258 degrees F dropping to 195 degrees F a minute after shutdown. In contrast, the uncoated header measured a scalding 870 degrees, retaining 520 degrees a minute after shutdown. 

Take it for what it's worth (talk is cheap, comments on the internet are cheaper...) but if I decide I feel rich enough to spring for the headers, mine will probably get coated as well.

Ah, see... I bought my bike with Leo Vince cans and a Power Commander, I did the shock last year (DMR), forks the year before... Upgraded to a modern r/r... Custom seat... 

Running out of low hanging fruit! 

I've got an '06. Honestly, I have done most of the things to this bike I'm interested in doing (mostly reliability stuff) but a high performance exhaust is pretty tempting. I've got the money in savings where I could buy it at the moment, but that money didn't wind up there by making those sorts of choices!

So... are these likely to stay in production for any length of time, or is it more of a "get in line now or regret it forever" situation? I ask because I missed this thread when it started, and now is a relatively tight moment, financially. It's not completely out of the question, but 6 months from now $800 would be a lot easier to come by.