BusyLittleShop

6 spoke Oz racing wheels have broke during the rigors of a race... inspect your 5 spoke critical junction often...

Stock RC45 front end is high quality but my goal was to drop the weight and pick up the pace... You're looking at over 8k in parts and over 8K in manual machining... but hey it was a labor of love... 1 Home made magnesium Triple Clamps with 35mm offset... $1,200 2 Ohlins FG310 Superbike Forks... $1,500 3 Ferodo Ceramic Matrix Composite Front Disc... $2,300 4 Brembo billet radial Front Calipers... $1,500 5 Home made Magnesium radial caliper mounts... $1,000 6 Marchesini Magnesium 3.5x17 Front Rim that was owned by Wayne Rainey when he sponsored Jimmy Felice YZ250R... $500 9 Brembo radial Front Brake master cylinder $275 10 Brembo billet radial clutch master cylinder $375 7 Homemade 7075 T6 Bar Risers... $450 8 home made 7075 T6 aluminum Front Axle... $350

No problems... Honda OEM filter are manufactured by Filtech, an American subsidiary of the Toyo Roki Manufacturing Company. Filtech has been manufacturing filters for HMC since '87 take a look inside and note the quality is about the same as K&N or HiFlo...

There was a K&N safety recall back in 2016 for certain K&N oil filters, Part Nos. KN-204 (black) and KN-204C (chrome), manufactured between March 1, 2016 and September 30, 2016 can leak oil at the area where a nut (intended for use to remove the oil filter during routine oil changes) is welded to the end of the filter. If there is such a leak, oil could come into contact with the rear tire or rear brake of the motorcycle on which the filter is installed. If this were to occur, it could lead to a loss of control or a crash. Therefore, K&N offered to replace the affected oil filters at no charge... I continue to employ a K&N 303 filter on Mr.RC45 and I have used OEM and High Flow with equal satisfaction... Oil Filter Comparison... [youtube]

Motorcycle horns... in good working order... have a distinctive sound all there own... when people here that little beeep eep... they have been trained over the years to think motorcycle... but if you replace the beeep eep with a car... truck or train horn... guess what??? confused people will charge right into your path thinking a car... truck or train has blown it's horn for them to get out their way... It's only natural for cagers to equate sounds to the first thing that pops into their heads in a panic situation... You're safest with meep meep... I talked to BMW rider who mounted air horns pirated from Southern Pacific Diesel Locomotive... They sounded great but he was having second thoughts... it seems cagers were running into his bike in a panic trying to get away from the train they could not see... We know that cagers are unpredictable and that blasting them with 125db non standard motorcycle horn is enough to send their thought process into over load... that's a destabilizing act of our own creation... Nathom Air Chimes off a Locomotive...

Negative... SN are not backwards compatible with SM... SN is new and improved over SM... SM - Introduced November 2004, improved oxidation resistance, deposit protection and wear protection, also better low temperature performance over the life of the oil compared to previous categories. SN - Introduced in October 2010 for 2011 and older vehicles, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons, more stringent sludge control, and seal compatibility. Energy Conserving is not additive... its an API test that this "oil may result is an overall saving of fuel in the vehicle fleet as a whole"... Technically speaking Energy Conserving tested oil can not defeat a wet clutch in good working order... what is confusing the issue is the fact that all motorcycle wet clutches will reach a point in their life and start to slip... no one complains about clutch slip when the bike is new... but on about the 27K to 57K range is when contaminants may build up to point where the clutch begins to loose its grip... this is usually discovered by the owner during WFO (Wide Fooking Open)throttle like at a track day... in error one can blame the oil but its really the contaminants on the clutch plates... So the notion that we should stay away from EC oil is on shaky ground... fact is I've been using 5/30 Energy Conserving Mobil 1 since 98 in Mr.RC45 with no clutch slipping due to oil being certified 10% freer flowing than non EC oil... and we're talking about Honda's homologated racer with a tall first gear good for 90mph that's known to incinerate clutch plates...

You're right... I joined Speedzilla because it was very lively... however my love for V4s clashed with the V2 crowd... do you remember their Larry poll??? How tired are you of listening to Larry's V4 rants? View Poll Results: 1)They dont bother me, I like V4s and think RC45s are super-duper 16 15.38% 2)Its getting a little old, but I still like V4 engines 34 32.69% 3) Im sick of it, and swear to only buy inline 4 powered bikes from now on 0.0% 4) FOR THE LOVE OF GOD LARRY SHUT THE **** UP 54 51.92% Dezmo Excercise your right to vote. 1996900sp I"ll chime in. I have a 6th gen VFR what about that? I always thought the RC30 was the bike to have and the 45 was pretty much a pile is that wrong? Old Baldy For me, Option #3 might have been better with something like, "I'm truly sick and tired of it, but still appreciate that a V4 is a nice motor" Much as I'm tired of his almost comical rhetoric, I just can't bring myself to Option #4..............so #2 it is, for me. hawkti V-4 thumpsup twowheelcossack The never ending saga continues. Sigh. duckdawg maybe if you had two V4s... gixracer voted babyabby I have not had the so called pleasure of owning a V4 but I am intrigued by the new VMAX and just might go to the dark side!!!! roadkill #2 for me.......Larry's fanaticism does not bother me one bit. Just ignore it if it bothers you. I loooooooove my V4 BTW Gog Not too many have pride, passion and pedigree to Larry's extent. mrgrn did you know the rc30 WAS HAND ASSEMBLED BY ONE OF THREE TEAMS OF 4 MEN and they could only make 60 bikes per week. the bodywork was hand laid glass and the RC30 was solely built to win suzuka, which it did cb186 i'll vote as soon as there is an option atleast 10x stronger than #4. 1996900sp Was GINA a V4? If not she should have been the superior power would have reformed the frame while in motion. Old Baldy Originally Posted by Busy Little Shop View Post Hey Larry... FOR THE LOVE OF GOD SHUT THE **** UP... hahahahhahahahhahahhahahhaha!!!! This is why I love the guy...at the same time as being so damned frustrated with his illogical biased BS. No matter what anyone says....Larry's a true motorcyclist and enthusiast. And I still want to knock his block off every now and again. Barry cheekybloke You got to respect the guy but it is all getting out of hand. roadkill No one is making you or anyone else here read it. Just my 2cents Old Fart 100% with your analogy and no ill will to Larry cheekybloke If I did that there would hardly be a thread on here to read, It's like viral advertising. Have a look any thread that has anything about an IL4 or V twin and even the one make tyre thread. mtmansl +1 (what Old Baldy said) Matthew robfromsc Originally Posted by mrgrn View Post it is certainly better than your constant retoric or your blathering on about your $20,000 super fast 600cc bike Originally Posted by cheekybloke View Post Mind it is still better than reading about the latest second rate carbonfibre tut you have spawned and are trying to push on people. robfromsc you guys need to go ahead and screw and just get it out of the way... Much better to listen to Larry and the v4 this and v4 that, than you two and your little pork hanging internet ego contest... go get laid or something ...geesh! Realmanken I love hearing what Larry has to say. Sometimes when Im bored, I'll log onto Speedzilla and actively search threads where Larry has posted so that I might enrichen my knowledge more in depth on the properties of a V-4 engine. Coincidentally, I dont have to search for very long to find a thread because Larry has a post on every sinlge thread created since he's joined. Kidding Larry! I really do love reading your posts on V-4's though. Keep em coming!! VIVA LA V-4!!!! banda Larry is the only speedzilla member on my ignore list. Unfortuantely, people still respond to him and quote his drivel, so it's hard to completely avoid his V4 ravings.

1098 conversion is trick... what is the weight difference???

I also blanket the rear cylinders with a aluminumized Kevlar wrap to curb the heat that radiates from the heat of combustion... the net result is a lot cooler seat and more comfort for the rider... I used Thermo Tec Heat Barriers Aluminum Kevlar and 1" Titanium exhaust wrap... I always wrap my pipes and I also wrap my RC45 customers pipes to curb the heat that radiates from the heat of combustion [ The amount of corrosion is limited to slight graying of the titanium surface... buffed with grey micro 3M pad the luster of the metal returns...

Whoa ho ho... Lovely Spit... Can I fly it???

Great tutorial on how to remove the Foo Foo Ra... beautiful cut plates too... The VFR is not alone with complying with the Feds Foo Foo Ra... just look at what Honda had to install on the RC45...

The key to the factory break procedure is high revs... you see at the factory they have already run the engine a high rpms to help seat the rings... they are not thrashing your engine... you're doing what your engine requires... The purpose of high rpms is initial seating of the piston rings to the cylinder walls. The run is conducted at full power because that is where greatest B.M.E.P. (Brake Mean Effective Pressure) occurs and a high B.M.E.P. is necessary for good piston ring break-in. The cylinder walls of a new engine are not mirror smooth as one might imagine. A special hone is used to put a diamond like pattern of "scratches" over the entire area of the cylinder wall. The cross hatch treatment of the cylinder walls plays an important role in proper break-in of piston rings to cylinder walls. I mentioned that B.M.E.P. was necessary to the "break-in" process. Here is how it works. If you cutaway a piston, ring and cylinder wall and inspect under magnification you see something to the effect of "saw teeth"... Given that a film of lubricating oil holds the piston ring away from the cylinder wall. Proper break-in of piston ring to cylinder wall requires that the ring rupture or break through this oil film and make contact with the cylinder wall. During such "metal to metal" contact, the little peaks on the ring face and cylinder wall become white hot and rub off. This condition will continue to occur until the ring face and cylinder wall have established a smooth compatible surface between each other. At this point, break-in is said to be relatively complete and very little metal-to-metal contact will occur hereafter. In fact, as the break-in process progresses, the degree of metal-to-metal contact will regress. How do you know if break is done??? take a compression test... if your engine shows factory compression then break in is complete... if your engine shows less than factory compression then more break in is require...

Great update... I just wish someone would ante up an after market filter for the RC45...

Excellent narrative with photos... VFR K&N filters are designed to pass just as much air as the stock filter so the owner will not have to re map... whereas BMC filters are designed to pass more air than stock but remapping is necessary to reap more performance... BMC

Thanks Dutchy... I'm still waiting for another bike to employ the little known 11mm pitch belt or for Gates to wake up and offer the 11mm pitch belt in their catalog next to the 8mm and 14mm... Interesting thoughts about Idlers but they are not an option based on the fact that the longer BMW belt are not designed to bend backwards... not to mention the problem of space given that fact that the idlers have to be the same large diameter as the primary sprocket...

PEG BLOCKS are still available to keep your knees in the breeze... the price + USPS flat rate priority shipping are as follows... as soon as I receive Pay Pal payment the shipping starts... my account netters2@comcast.net USA Peg Blocks $85.00 + Priority Shipping $7.15 = $92.15 Canada Peg Blocks $85.00 + Priority Shipping $24.95 = $109.95 Europe Peg Blocks $85.00 + Priority Shipping $33.95 = $118.95 Australia or Denmark $85.00 + Priority Shipping $34.95 = $119.95 What you see is what you get... Peg Blocks are specially designed using billet 6061 T6 aluminum for the VFR800 years (5th Gen 98 to 01) and (6th Gen 02 on 09) and (8th Gen 2014 on up)... they will effectively lower Honda's foot peg 1.5 inches (38mm) from the stock position... Peg Block Instructions Print Out Rob's INSTALLATION GUIDE http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php/topic/34097-bls-footpeg-block-install/ VFRD site http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/topic/80155-peg-lowering-blocks-an-vfrd-exclusive-product/

Honda collection Hall Motegi Japan... http://apps.mobilityland.co.jp/hch/search/english/

All Reeeeeeeeeeeeeet... Endurance Race RC45s are my favorite... I'll ante my Lucky Strike pics... I actually have one of these HRC double sided exhaust systems hanging in the shop...