-
Posts
2,399 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
45
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Gallery
Blogs
Downloads
Events
Posts posted by BusyLittleShop
-
-
50 minutes ago, V4 Rosso said:
The zip tie method puts the system under pressure making the air bubbles smaller.
Under what principal of physics???
-
48 minutes ago, VFR750F3 said:
Th zip tie method works. I do it every year on all my bikes.
Negative...
-
-
On 5/20/2022 at 1:22 PM, VFR750F3 said:
Did you zip tie clutch handle before removing slave? It sound like you need to rebleed. Try this first zip tie the clutch handle bar overnight and remove screws to oil resovoir for air to move up.
As you can see in the drawings the zip tie suggestion doesn't
accomplish much because as you squeeze the lever the piston blocks the
path of bubbles (blue) from reaching the reservoir... but if you leave
the lever at rest the piston retracts enough to uncover the port so
the bubbles (blue) can travel all the way to the reservoir...
-
Hi BusyLittleShop,
Thank you for your donation of 100.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.
Thanks VFRDiscussion
- 1
-
22 hours ago, VFR78 said:
I would prefer to run a fully synthetic 10w30 but struggle to find it in northern Sydney. Maybe it’s not that important and HP4 is fine.
Which oil is best for longevity??? either a 30 or 40 grade oils in
either synthetic or mineral will meet and exceed your mileage expectations...
Which oil is best for lowering temps??? the 30 grades flows with less
drag than a 40 grade...
Which oil is best for Horse Power??? the 30 grades flows with less
energy than a 40 grade...- 1
-
On 9/16/2020 at 5:41 PM, vfrcapn said:
I put the tire on already, I can weight both and start a new thread. With the Aussie convert kit it's just mechanical bolt on of bits, nothing too technical. This is a 6" Duc wheel, so a 190 tire.
Mike... Mr.RC45's 6" Marchesini is shod with a 180/55... the difference is illustrate in the drawing...
- 1
-
Motorcycle horns in good working order have a distinctive sound
all there own... when people here that little beep beep... they have
been trained over the years to think motorcycle... but if you replace
the beep beep with a car... truck or train horn... guess what???
confused people will charge right into your path thinking a car... truck
or train has blown it's horn for them to get out their way... It's only
natural for cagers to equate sounds to the first thing that pops into
their heads in a panic situation...
Like when you hear beep beep you think Road Runner... not Wiley E
Coyote... -
I installed a Yamaha R1 Rec/Reg instead of the uniquely RC45 high
dollar Rec/Reg... this was after I went through 2 stock R/Rs at $227
each and 1 $300 stator and still I suffered the problem of low volts
to the point where the engine would hesitate and quit... only after I
give up on Honda's stuff and tried Yamaha's stuff did I have the joy
of finishing my ride...- 1
-
On 10/5/2020 at 7:23 AM, gmtech94 said:
After reassembly the yellow stator wires get really hot .
Really hot is a wildly subjective term on the human scale... it would help if we had some C or F numbers to judge by...
-
-
16 hours ago, VFR4Me said:
Time to kick this thread again!
Ordered a set from BLS for my 8th gen recently... my knees thank you!
You're welcome... keep those knees in the breeze...
-
-
-
7 hours ago, Sparkie said:
I'm using 10-30. I get 45+ mpg regularly.
Thanks Sparkie... I saved your photos for my next BITOG oil viscosity debate...
- 1
-
2 hours ago, vfrcapn said:
Congrats, I didn't know they were still making them for sale anywhere.
Ducati's recommended oil. With 4 bikes I'm sticking to the dino for the Hondas.
Hiya Mike... is that 30 grade for both???
-
-
-
JZH...
Honda only imported 56 RC45s to North America in 1994... Vins #1 thru #5
were imported to Canada... Vins #6 thru #56 were imported to the US to
satisfy AMA 50 bike homologation rules. Freddie Spencer got Vin #6 the first
stateside RC45... -
3 hours ago, Cogswell said:
How do you insure the full value of all those parts and pieces? A typical insurance company is going to pay book value on what is now a 25+ y.o. bike. And since most of the parts are out of production there are no comparative values.
I don't have full value coverage for any of my hand made parts... so when I trade rides with trusted VFRD members I risk loosing a lot of sweat equity...
I've been a steady and valued customer with State Farm since 1968...
however in 98 when I applied for full coverage on my fresh out of
Tijuana Mexico RC45 they couldn't it in their Great Motorcycle
Book... No problem agent advised... "go to the dealer to have it
appraised"... OK but the manager at the Carmichael Honda just signed a
blank appraisal form and said "Larry, fill in any amount you wish" so
in full view of the agent I was about to scribe $27,500 but the agentsaid wait..."lets not do it like that" and he called the main office for
guidance...So under a verbal agreement the agent stated... "State Farm is
insuring your bike, worth a small fortune; as a normal everyday 750...
If I have make a claim... it will be up to me to convince State Farm
serial # 002 RC45 is worth more than the $8,000 I paid..."
First premium cost $217 for 6 months...
Two Wheel Ordeal
-
1 hour ago, jim v said:
BLS, please tell us about your carbon-ceramic rotors -
-do they work on the street?
-how do they compare to stock?
-special pads required?
-where are they available
-i assume they're much lighter, but how much?
-do they require other modifications?
They are Ceramic Matrix Composites...
Yes CMC work on the street cold or hot or wet or dry...
CMC bite that same as steel rotors...
CMC do not require special pads...
CMC weight
Stock Honda 310mm stainless steel 3 lbs 4 oz
Ferodo 320mm Ductle Iron 2 lb 8 oz
Ceramic Matrix Composite 1 lb 7 oz
CMC don't require any other mods...
CMC aren't available any more due to cost... I paid $2,400 a set...
Performance features include:
* Not thermally sensitive (will work great on the street)
* Ultra broad torque curve across a very wide thermal range
* Much longer lasting than Carbon / carbon
* Much less expensive than Carbon / carbon
* Great wet weather performance - unlike Carbon / carbon [not hygroscopic]
* Terrific feel and feedback at the lever
* Strong braking performance? We mean, Really strong: +.6 mu average friction with special Ferodo Racing brake padsI also installed a CMC Ducati disc on the rear in a on going effort to reduce weight...
- 1
-
Poor Magnesium... the little known "metal of motion"... it deserves to be understood its fatigue strength is good...
Personally I've been running Dymags and Marchesini magnesium wheels on the street since 1982... that's 38 years of
worth of riding with no cracks noted... and I'm not known to ride in moderation either...If you need to know if a small piece of metal is magnesium or not...
apply white vinegar directly to exposed bare metal... if it fizzes
it's safe to say magnesium... if it doesn't it can be any other metal
in the world...GPz550 and my 3 spoke Dymags bought from Harris Performance the
day I visited the brothers shop in England...Mr.RC45's 3 spoke Marchesini magnesium wheels... rear 6x17 Rear Rim from Freddie Spencer's
RC30...$600 and front 3.5x17 Front Rim that was owned by Wayne Rainey when he sponsoredJimmy Felice YZ250R... $500
My hand machined magnesium triple clamps in Dow 7...
My hand machined magnesium caliper mounts...
- 1
-
-
Gen 6 clutch issues
in Maintenance Guides
Posted
Ron Ayers diagram...
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053f59af870021c54be7ae2/clutch[/img]