Grum

Hi Bmart. I make no reference to the racing scenario, purely general road riding and on average I'm seeing around 36,000 to 38,000k per chain, (22,500 to 23,600 mile). Only ever used high quality Jap chains D.I.D or EK. and riveted Master Link. Cheers

Just for info.... Here's my original 8gen drive sprocket after 74,000 km and the new replacement JT one fitted. (allow for a little Mobile Phone lens distortion, even the new sprocket looks a little non uniform in shape) My current original rear 43T Sprocket has done 96,000 km and has no visible sign of wear! I do have a replacement rear sprocket ready to go for the next chain replacement, but will it really need replacing???? The bottom line here is that always replacing sprockets and chains as a set is old school and a waste of money. Meticulous attention to chain tension and regular Chain/Sprocket lubrication will see good quality sprockets last for ages, particularly the OEM. And as Honda descibes in their Owners Manual, if there's no sign of visible wear, there's no need to replace them. I guess it's also fair to say that riding styles, riding conditions and weather, along with those who unfortunately have to ride on salt laden roads will have a big effect on both chain and sprocket mileage. BUT, As always YMMV.

Yep looks like a genuine Honda sprocket to me.

Now that you've established the spade connectors on the Relay that go to the coil, you can now do the Function test of the Relay as suggested in my first post!! Again MAKE SURE YOUR BIKE IS IN NEUTRAL. Failing the test and assuming you do have a healthy battery, then go buy a new Starter Relay. If the test passes then you need to establish both Power and Ground for the Starter Relay coil as per the diagram posted. Also no answer from you from previous questions... - Have you confirmed the Neutral Switch is working? Is your Neutral light on? - Have you tried a Sidestand Up, Clutch pulled in start? Good luck.

With Ignition on are your headlights glowing normally??? Ohms testing the relay coil is really only of benefit if checking for an open circuit coil. It's easy to functionally check the Relay. But yes you should see zero ohms across the main contacts when energized.

Before buying a new Starter Relay! Just be sure that your Battery is definitely in good health as you say it is! And battery terminals are clean and tight. I've also mentioned how you can check the operation of the Starter Relay! When you independently powered the Starter Motor was this from the bikes battery or some other battery? A clicking Starter Relay can be caused by a bad battery.(or poor wiring connections). It might be working but there is no or insufficient battery capacity to run the Starter Motor. So if in doubt charge the battery and have it load checked, any descent auto parts store will do it for you FOC. Or simply monitor the battery voltage as you press the starter button, what does the voltage drop to?

You say "starter button not working" ! Is that a typo error? If not, then that's the fault, the wiring or switch needs repair or replacement! Here's the basic starter circuit diagram attached. Highlighted Red is the Positive Voltage feed for the Relay Coil the Green Highlighted is the Grounding side for the Relay Coil. - At Ignition Switch On, are all Indications, Lights, Fuel prime, Normal? - Have you confirmed Fuse D 10amp Starter Fuse is good? - Have you confirmed the Neutral Switch is working? Is your Neutral light on? - Have you tried a Sidestand Up, Clutch pulled in start? If you remove the red plug from the Starter Relay and probe the Red wire connector and the Yellow/red wire connector at the red plug you should have continuity provided the Ignition is On, the Fuse is ok, the Kill Switch is in RUN and the Starter Button is pressed. Another possibility is an open circuit Clutch Diode. But this will only effect a Neutral Start, Not the Sidestand Up, Clutch in Start. To verify your Starter Relay function, you could use a couple of test leads from the battery, remove the Red Plug from the relay then probe the test leads to where the Green/Red wire (Ground) and the Yellow/Red wire (Positive) would normally go to on the relay. Each time you make contact to the terminals the Starter Relay should energise and starter motor should run. MAKE SURE IF YOU DO THIS YOUR BIKE IS IN NEUTRAL AND PREFERABLY ON THE CENTER STAND. Let's know how you get on.

Hi Devo. While the MOSFET R/R is a great improvement over the old OEM SCR Shunt type. The best option is the Series Type R/R like the SH847. The series type allows the stator to supply only the power required by the bikes electrical load. When using the series type r/r changing the 55w x 2 halogen H4 headlights to LED equivalents will also benefit both r/r and stator. In fact any form of load reduction when using a series r/r will greatly benefit reliability of both stator and r/r, unlike the shunt type. The other issue, is that virtually all failed stators fail in the windings that are Not bathed in the oil, oil helps in taking away the extreme heat that the windings experience as the stator is basically working flat out with a shunt type r/r and especially with the inefficient OEM SCR type. One of the excellent updates on the 8gen is forced oil cooling for the Stator and an all new very smart and efficient r/r. 8gens have been going since 2014 and many like my own have clocked up large mileage, I haven't heard of a stator failure yet, but the r/r have failed, only two that I'm aware of over the two VFR forums. Once you do get your charging issues sorted the 6gen VFR is extremely reliable. Had three of them only one needed a stator replacement. Good luck. Cheers.

Wow, how weird is that!! Wouldn't be item 4, O'Ring by any chance?

No Sir, wasn't being "tough" at all, just wanted to highlight things he may not be aware of, the OP appears to be not too familiar with the bike, hopefully it might help him to locate the OEM items from the PO, or maybe certain items might be rectified under some form of Warranty arrangement from the dealership, if it was purchased from a dealership. Never heard of the heated grips being removed from an 8gen and especially from a bike with relatively low mileage. There are certainly many mods on the bike that seem a little strange to me. And Yes hopefully the bike will be a great ride for the OP. Cheers.

Another not so obvious change is the rear sprocket it's non OEM! 8gen standard sprockets are 16/43. You would also think with the mileage your bike has done it would probably still have the original chain, and therefore the original sprocket! I wonder if the previous owner wanted to change the final drive ratio. Check if the rear is a 43 tooth sprocket? AND it keeps getting weirder!! Your rear Brake Rotor is also non OEM. Why all the brake Rotor changes on such a low mileage bike? Still amazed that it appears all the heated grip hardware has been removed, one of the excellent additions to the 8gen. Bit of a shame, there is a piece of broken missing fairing just below the right side pillion grab handle cover! And is that paint missing, just aft of the grab handle cover? Check the rear cowl it doesn't seem to be sitting properly, sits high, and is mostly noticeable at the rear of the cowl..

Yeah, as mentioned first up! load check your Battery!! Then buy yourself a multimeter, you can't properly work on bike electrics without one And knowing how to use it! TIP - First thing, with any electrical issue ALWAYS verify the health of the Battery no matter how old or new, and make sure the terminals are clean and tight.

That's why I mentioned it. I've never used the high position but could see yours doesn't seem to look right. Refer to you Owners Booklet regarding the seat height and as mentioned make sure the height setting collars are fitted when using the High position. If the collars are not fitted and the front is located in the high stay you could be stressing the seat structure.

Yep as Thumbs mentioned left side white circled switch.

If you purchased from a dealer perhaps they could contact the previous owner, the original items are probably of no use to him. The disc rotors look like the EBC brand. Do a Google search, you'll see. Once again, if the bike has the H.I.S.S system its important you have two keys as they have an embedded Transponder chip that comunicates with the ECM, if the correct code is not read at Ignition Switch ON = No Engine Start. If you loose the one remaning key, or it's Transponder Chip fails, you could be in for an expensive and inconvenient situation. If you ONLY have the one key then get a new Transponder Key Blank cut and then programme it to your ECM. The Service Manual (VFR800F/VFR800X) Downloadable from the forum explains this, or take the bike to a good Honda dealership and they can do the process for you, for a fee of course!!

Very strange that the Heated Grips which should be there are missing!! I've heard that running them at level 5 for long periods have caused the grip rubber to degrade in some instances. Noticed there's lots of aftermaket changes and additions. Curious as to why the front disc rotors are not OEM? - Did you get the separate pillion seat and handles? - Two keys? Especially if your bike has the H.I.S.S system. - Tool kit under the seat? - Owners manual? - Were you supplied with the OEM Screen and Exhaust? - Looks like the seat is set to the high position, check that the two seat height raising collars have been installed. Unless you have records that the Brake and Clutch fluid have been replaced recently then replace and flush the fluid, an easy job on an 8gen. Coolant, if no replacement record should be done as well. Enjoy the 8gen.

When you say the battery is good, how old is it? And have you had it load checked? Assume you have verified the Main Fuse A 30amp in the Starter Relay is good? Check for any burnt or overheated stress signs on the fuse itself and that it fits snugly into its leg sockets. Do you have the wiring diagram for your bike and do you have a multimeter? Make sure the connector plug to the Starter Relay has no sign of overheated, burnt or high resistance joints especially for the Red wire and Red/White wire. Suggest as a starting point you measure the 12v feeding your fuses in the fuse box and work back from that, If the 12v for the fuses is absent follow the Red/Black wire back to the Ignition Switch. The Ignition switch (when On) joins the incoming 12v from the battery (via Main Fuse A 30amp) on the Red wire to the Red/Black wire which then feeds 12v to your sub fuses within the fuse box. If needed follow this voltage back to the battery on the Red wire? Somewhere between the battery and your fuse box is where you appear to have lost 12v.

Hi Mowhawk. Would seem to be an impossibility that the engine could run with both Ignition and Kill switches to Off. Discounting any strange wiring mods! His mention of..."I replaced the battery as I was attaching the wires to the battery it was refusing to turn off I had a little Google and I tapped the solenoid with the rubber bit of a screwdriver, it went back to normal" This made me think he was referring to the Starter Motor, with the possibility of a sticking solenoid or a wiring short. Until we get some better details from the OP it all sounds a little vague to me. Cheers.

Bit more info.... Are you saying the Starter Motor wont turn off? Or are you saying the engine continues to run with Ignition Off, Kill Switch Off, and can't be turned off? Are there any wiring modifications? If its a Starter Motor issue.... With a multimeter set it to Buzzer or lowest ohms range. With the red plug removed from the Relay, and Ignition to Off. Probe the Red wire and the Yellow/red wire spade connectors of the plug (not at the relay) flex the lead and make sure you see No Continuity or Buzz. Any intermittent buzz or continuity means you have a short.

Hi Skids. Excellent advice already there for you. Just to add one more for a snippet of info. Any damage to the Molybdenum butterfly seal coating, will cause additional bypass air resulting in high uncontrollable idle. Bottom line is the main cause of Hi Idle is either the Wax Unit (or blocked coolant flow through it as mentioned), additional air into the throttle bodies (vaccumm hoses, throttle body mounting boots) or perhaps a dud TPS or ECT signal. Assume you don't have any Fi Flashing Codes. Terry raises a good key point here, if your idle very slowly returns to normal just relying on engine temperature heat soaking the WU then that is a good sign coolant flow through WU could be restricted or blocked, this could be within the WU itself or the hoses. Cheers.

Assuming the Starter Relay wiring is similar to the VFR. Remove the Red Starter Relay electrical connector and undo some of the insulation tape. Check for a Red wire to Yellow/red wire short. Refer attached picture. Take a look at the Starter Circuit wiring diagram attached, you'll see if this short happens your Starter Relay Coil will energize permanently until you either disconnect the Battery or remove Main Fuse A 30amp, housed in the Starter Relay. Once you have sorted I would Definetly replace the Starter Relay just on spec as it would have taken a beating, I hope the Starter Motor has survived the ordeal.!!

Mate. Don't forget that beneath the nice glossy paintwork and fairings, it's just another 6gen, nothing special or different behind it's fancy dress. I had the same feelings about my own RWB, a lovely bike, but the 8gen has blown all those cares away. Pictured (Dec 2007) - My buddy and his sexy 2006 Black. I fiited some nice Staintune exhausts to both bikes, they look and sound great. The white wheels, especially on your 8gen, look great. Don't regret it, move on. Seriously, the 8gen is a far superior bike, IMO. Still think a nice aftermarket exhaust will further add to your bikes good looks and of course that delightful 90deg V4 sound. Cheers.

Getting your warm engine idle back to 1200rpm will make a big difference. I guess I wouldn't trust any CHP service dept. used to working on Harley Electra Glides to work on a VFR! Change your clutch technique....From a stationary position going from neutral to in gear with some vague partial pull in of the clutch is a BAD technique!!! If you use all fingers on the clutch and pull it in fully this is the best option. You will minimize the chance of a forward jolt when going from neutral to in gear, minimize clutch drag and clutch wear as you were probably within the friction zone, lessen any load on the engine possibly keeping it cooler while stationary, and the launch assit function should work well and consistently from the fully pulled in position. However once on the move can revert to any clutch method you like! Be wary, some aftemarket levers don't trigger the clutch switch properly and have caused issues. I trust you have NO problems with In Gear engine starting Sidestand Up. This is another indication that the clutch switch is working......or not. Personally I have no issues with the launch assit function, it's bearly noticeable and works well. I've not seen or heard a bad report about it, mostly it's owners just observing that it's there and curious about the rpm increase on clutch release in gear.

Yep you've got yourself a super reliable vfr a joy to ride. What's the history, how many miles/k's ? And as Presson states, fire away with any questions, we are all here to help. Good luck with the purchase. And welcome 8gen owner.