TheLimey

Regulator-Rectifier. 

I think the only real difference is the exit where the link pipe fits on a 6th Gen is about 5/8" shorter for easier fitment, but they're otherwise identical. 

I'm definitely more of an over man, myself. 

Oops, wrong forum...

1 hour ago, Rush2112 said:

I checked with my engineer and passivation and polishing/wire brushing are not the same net effect with 304 stainless steel.  304 stainless steel is more than 50% iron, around 20% chromium and about 10% nickel.  Passivation dissolves the iron on the surface leaving the chromium, nickel, and other trace elements on the surface.  These metals left on the surface oxidize when air dried after the acid treatment and form the protective oxide layer that prevents the iron underneath from oxidizing (rust).  Polishing/wire brushing exposes fresh top surface of metal; in 304 stainless steel this is more than 50% iron so when the oxides form it doesn't make a protective barrier because of all the iron on the surface.  It was explained to me that is why we passivate the equipment in the food processing plants after polishing them.

Cool. You learn something new every day. 

9 hours ago, Rush2112 said:

I wasn't sure if polishing the headers after passivation could compromise or remove part of the oxide layer and leave the polished headers more susceptible to rust and corrosion.

I can't see why it would. The net result with passivation and polishing/wire brushing is all the same; you're revealing a fresh top surface of metal to allow the chrome content to oxidise. Once it's reacted with the atmosphere it forms a boundary layer preventing further oxidation beneath it. I think the only benefit of passivation over mechanical methods is it's quicker, removes virtually no material and can get into all the nooks and crannies around the weld beads. 

All passivation does is acid etch the surface to restore the chrome oxide layer that's destroyed by the heat of welding, which is what gives stainless steel its high corrosion resistance. It's perfectly normal for the tubing to discolour a little after a few heat cycles.

The passivation is only to stop the headers from rusting at the welds. 

26 minutes ago, boOZZIE said:

Is there any need to re-install the heat shield (moded) on rear set?    No hot foot or brake line?

I've been running my VFR for a while now without a heat shield and even with the stock headers on, I can feel the heat through my boot. It's fine while you're on the move, but does tend to get a little toasty when you're sat at the lights. I wouldn't want to ride it without boots and leathers on.

Mine arrived yesterday safe and sound. I've just gotta make myself a link pipe now. I might have to sit on the bike and make engine noises in the meantime. 

One of those 6th Gen headers is mine and the centre stand was one of the first things I removed from my bike, so I won't be needing a stop.

Megasquirt seems to be the go-to for most people doing such conversions.

http://megasquirt.info/

Fingers crossed. I think your payment makes at least six, which is the minimum Wade will build. Come on people!

You'll be operating all three of the rear caliper pistons with the rear master cylinder rather than just the outer two. The middle was previously operated by the secondary master cylinder on the front left caliper, but now you're going to link all three rear pistons together. 

PM'd SF on Saturday and have yet to hear back.

Hi TheLimey,

Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

You sure I can't tempt you? I mean, it melted your little plastic doofer and everything. Five bucks and a packet of Cheetos, that's my final offer.

2 hours ago, VFR750F3 said:

Just finished bike for road america front right header melted plastic.  Incorrectly bent.  Disappointed

 Yeah, you're probably right; those headers are rubbish. I'll give you five bucks for them.

Hi TheLimey,

Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

Definitely not made in China. It's what most of the BSB field and a healthy dose of the Irish road race boys use. Check out these guys, too:

https://raceboltuk.com/product-category/motorcycle-kits/honda/vfr800-vtec-02-12/

No takers?

So now I have a spare shock to disassemble and perhaps even reassemble afterwards if I'm doing well, does anybody know how much pressure an F4i shock takes? I'm assuming 150PSI but I've read some Showa units take 225PSI.

The guy refunded me in full with no quibbles. I was really impressed with how he handled it and he let me keep the shock. I've another on order now and a free shock to experiment with.

I just received this shock in the post from an eBay seller, and it looks rather bent to me. You can see it in the second photo by the angle the lower spring spacer sits at. Any opinions on whether to send it back or try and salvage it? I'm unsure whether shock shafts can be straightened in the same way fork stanchions can.

Hey guys,

Long time lurker and first time poster. I've just purchased a CBR600F4i shock for my 2003 6th Gen as well as one of these to (hopefully) overcome the issue of preload adjustment.

http://www.biketude.com/wp-content/gallery/vfr-shock-replacement/img_1241.jpg

The picture is shamelessly ripped from the following article:

http://www.biketude.com/do-it-yourself/replacing-shock-on-vfr-800-a/

I've yet to use either as they're still in the post but, at only 65kg (145lb), I'm hoping to get away with running the shock with no adaptation. I'm sure it'll probably need a stiffer spring, but only time will tell.