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Baileyrock

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Everything posted by Baileyrock

  1. Baileyrock

    Waterfall TMac2011

    What is that strange looking red bike on the right?
  2. My guess is that Most slips are "Crap on the road surface" issues vs the tire grip problem when running any decent tire.
  3. You said you thought they were the original Pilot Roads, So you you did have PR's or PR2's on your bike? HUGE difference between PR's and PR2's!!! BR
  4. Baileyrock

    VFR 800

    Timmy's got wood on this one! Very nice!
  5. ^This. Good to know a 5 year old thread is still kicking! Actually it's been updated several times over the years to be sure were still using the Best place that give us the best prices and service. BR
  6. Hard to believe, but I just had my first dealing with Keith at Mason Honda and it was a good one. At 92,000 miles I'm needing my second CCT on my 02 so I looked at their web site. The part listed for $97.47 and they showed an on-line discount of $77.98 so I gave Keith a call and told him i was with VFRD and he said how about $61.65, bingo send it. $7 shipping and it should go out tomorrow. Need parts, call Keith! BR
  7. Yeah, the original Pilot Road was Crap IMO if you push your bike if the slightest!!! The most veg tire I ever ran. I never likes any Dunlop until the Q2 and they just don't last at all. You should slap on a set of PP's one day to see how good your bike and tires can feel. BR
  8. Let us know how the Smart II's work for you. BTW I hate PR's also or are you talking about PR2's?
  9. Baileyrock

    IMG 0175

    Ah Fay Myers Honda in Denver. They were my Dealer for 24 years. ps they never had these Jems out when I was there. BR
  10. With that type of riding I would suggest a PR2 rear w/PP front, they will wear out as a set. You'll find the steering much slower with any PR2 or 3 f/r vs PP's, that is why I still run the PP front w/PR2 rear. My buddy who rides a lot like me says he likes the PR2 rear better than the PR3 when pushed hard in the Dry, but the 3 is better in wet. I avg 2-2200 miles from a set of PP's and avg 3-3.5k miles from the PP/PR2 combo with no noticable grip difference. BR
  11. I've run a Sargent for around 75,000 miles so far and have had to had the foam replaced twice so far as it breaks down somewhere in the 25-35k miles area. BR
  12. Baileyrock

    It's done!

    Awesome!!!!!!!!!
  13. Sounds great, plz let us know and be sure to ask them what spring rates they install. Hopefully TD in house won't just set-up the bike off some faulty VFR spring rate calculator like 90% of the other suspension shops seem to use! BR
  14. I think I was at this one! :-) My first time on a m/c in CO in over 20 years at a great VFRD event and I'm limited to one tank of fuel! Sorry ride group buds!!!
  15. I think most of the harshness you felt with your old bike was from the TOO Stiff fork springs compared to the too Soft rear spring for your weight. Like this thread I started, I was very disapointed in my bike after have the forks revalved/resprung and installing a Ohlins on the rear but only with a stock 850 lb spring on it. It felt good when I slammed on the brakes because of less fork dive, but felt crappy the rest of the time until I installed the stiffer 19kg spring. BTW I now run a 20kg rear spring w/.95kg fork springs and it feels great. I suggest a 21kg rear if you plan to stay with the 1.0 fronts. BR
  16. Not really, how does the bike feel to you now??? .95's might have been enough, the 1.0 is Not that different, but I do think the the 1028 rear is soft for your weight and the 1.0 is too much for the 1028 rear. I run .95's w/a 20kg(1122lb) rear and weight 190lbs. Your set-up is very close, but maybe a little harsh on teh front and over working the rear slightly. BR
  17. Beck, The Q2 is a very good tire, probably the best Dunlop has to offer(other than track tires). It handles very good, has excellent grip and didn't have the normal cupping issues most of their other tires had. I tried a set and enjoyed them, but they don't exceed the performance in any noticeable way of my current PP/PR2 combo and don't last near as long so I won't buy another set until they update them again. A very good tire though.
  18. The stock triangle plates rotated with the arrows up will lower the rear around 1 1/2" so you should be fine, I would however also drop the front end at least 1" by sliding the fork tubes up in the triples. This keeps the bikes rake and handling closer to desired and also lowers the bike. You will need a shortened side stand though. BR
  19. BTW, moved this thread to Suspension as it applies to all gens! BR
  20. Excellent Feedback and info Roy, THANKS! Pinning topic. BR
  21. On my 02 street Vtec I had Aftershocks re-valve & re-spring my stock forks and have run them Hard for over 50k miles with very good results! Actually they didn't feel that good until I balanced the rear Ohlins with the correct spring, then entire bike was transformed! Only downside is No adjust-ability On my 04 Vtec Track bike I installed a full F4i front end w/calipers and radial M/C, new shim stack for stock Rebound valve and changed to large port Showa Compression valves w/new shim stack. Felt Great and fully adjustable. W/ F4i forks you can use stock VFR wheel/Rotors or F4 wheel & stock rotors or F4i wheel and rotors. I used a stock 06 Vtec fender on teh F4i forks, only 4 of the 6 mounts bolts work, but that's plenty. BR
  22. Any member can start a survey/poll, just check "How to".
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