Baileyrock

if she likes the 250 she should get the new ninja 300 or 250 or the new CBR 250. all much more capable of higher highway speed and accelerating better then the Rebel Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

there are many write ups in the how to section or suspension forums cover all your questions. no exhaust removal needed Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

very nice write-up thanks for posting Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

Sorry for missing your question, as I've not been active on here for a long time. The first posts stated that I used the Sharkskin race bodywork.. I don't have any drawings of the rear subframe I made unfortunately. Sorry. We still have the bike and are planning a new paint job for this year. Dude, where you been???????????

You might as well upgrade the standard shock, and then get a better spring, tailored to your weight. Just getting the XX shock will do little, but it might be a small step up from the standard VFR shock. The CBR1100XX is no better than the VFR800. Nothing to be had there! I'm talking from merely a higher rated spring than the VFR point of view. Not everyone has nearly $400 to throw at the suspension, and you can pick up a XX shock for less than $50. If you HAD to go cheap on the quick, it is a viable option for people over 200 lbs. Yes, the XX shock would be a slight improvement over the VFR shock only because of the slightly higher spring rate (16.9 vs 15.3). But as JD says, heavier riders should have a much stiffer spring rate. Ideal would be something over 23kg for you. BR

Congrats, looks good. I installed Renthal 755 bars on my 6th gen.

When my customers complain about shifting my experience it can be traced to clutch drag and not the oil... I doubt a rider can tell the difference in a BLIND shift test... usually a rider develops a feeling about an oil based on how enjoyable they are traveling down the perverted highway... like toilet paper you can roll freely or wipe sh*t off someone's A hole... So here's my method to check your clutch for drag... your gears can't shift smoothly if your clutch is part way engaged... 1 Place your bike on the center stand... 2 Start engine and establish a steady idle... 3 Squeeze in the clutch and hold... shift into first gear... 4 Now look at the rear wheel... if it's spinning step on the rear brake... does this action drag down the engine rpms??? If you bike is equipped with an cable then adjust the clutch lever knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and check again check for clutch drag... if you bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system and check for bubbles... Ultimately you want the rear wheel to stop when the engine is idling and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in... In conclusion After 25 years dealing with customers I think its not a question of oil so much as a question of technique and clutch... My RC30 and RC45 customers will ask for the same slick shifting oil that made their friend's RC30 and RC45 shift so smoothly after it left the Busy Little Shop... I hate to break it to them but it wasn't the oil that made the difference it was rider technique and the elimination of clutch drag... so before I will dump one slick shifting oil for the next slick shifting oil I work with them on their technique and their clutch... then and only then will they understand that they were fooled into thinking it was the oil when in fact it was technique and clutch... I think we are after the same thing... smooth shift without upsetting the suspension... the secret is moving the foot quicker than clutch or throttle... go easy with the clutch and throttle but move your foot quicker... but worry there is no such thing as too quick... its early form of seem-less shifting... So what the Hell oil are you using Larry???

pretty sure that shock has rebound adjustment only. that's the black ring/knob at the bottom of the picture. this is ollins most basic shock. that's a little plug at the top were the remote hose would go. BR Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

Congrats on the install . Requesting JD to build an F4i shock instead of the 929 will save Major headache when installing in a 6th gen. BR Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

Ivan, Springs or correct spring rates are the Foundation of any suspension, they support the bike and riders weight. Valving controls the springs osolation, suspension transitions, bump and ride control. On the front running F4i parts allow adjustments of both comp & rebound which is Great, it allows for rider tuning to personal preference. The F4i rebound valving is decent, but the compression valving is poor. Installing some older Showa 3-port valve bodies would make a big improvement. You would have to change the shim stake to get full benifits. BR

Depends slightly of what type of riding you plan on doing. The .95/19.6 should be good and on the firmer side better for twisties and the other combo slightly softer for better touring/comfort. BR

Actually the XX shock has two befits over a VFR shock on a 6th gen for a typical heavier rider! 1- It has a stiffer spring and valving to match (16.9kg vs 15.3kg) memory serving 2- it's slightly longer raising the rear to provide quicker steering Is it ideal? NO! but were talking simple & cheap mods that help move in the correct direction! BR

Great! and congrats! BTW is the spacer on the top or bottom of the shock? BR Budget would be the Blackbird shock(bolt-in) and .95 for springs. BR

Yes it does! But if I was as Smooth as you I wouldn't need it! BR

Yes you are correct on all accounts! The stock springs should work for you and the changes you suggest should take you in the right direction. BR PS welcome to VFRD!

I'm sure they will bolt up, BUT I would NOT run two different design calipers on the same front end as they No Doubt will produce different pad pressure from side to side which is NOT a positive thing!

Hey Zollie and welcome to VFRD! Check the parts microfish on Ron Ayers.com to parts numbers. I know they made changes from the 5th gen (98-01) to the 6th gen (02-09) braking system, but I'm not sure if it involved changes to the Calipers. Good luck with the repairs and sorry for the banger! BR

If it had a hose mounted Remote Reservoir it would work no problem, if it was the Fixed type reservoir type it would not. BR

Unless you weigh less than 130lbs do NOT run the F4i spring, it's like a 14kg which is softer then the already soft 15.3kg stock VFR spring. BR

My numbers are for example only in reference to measuring levels on the bike, NOT spec level for anything! It only means actual is a 10mm less then measured on bike, nothing else. Sorry if anyone thought otherwise! BR

Thanks for the post and help guys related to installing a 929 shock on a Vtec!!! I agree completely with zROYz's thought's about heat here: "The reservoir holds the nitrogen charge but the other side of bladder is oil, the heat from headers will heat the entire shock body is a big way & heat causes increased pressure in the nitrogen charge, deterioration to the rubber bladder which are already the weak point in that shock design. Add major heat to oil which already heats up from shock operation & the more heat the faster the shock oil also deteriorates. There is about zero air flow in that area so cooling effect would be again about zero, maybe after a hour or so riding reach down & feel how hot the shock body is & I bet you can't even touch for any length of time due to the heat. I'm in noway saying the shock isn't going to be an improvement over the standard shock but that type of install must surely drop shock service interval period & have an effect on shock performance if you use say the shocks peak performance in normal operation conditions to overheated conditions as a gauge. It is all good the average punter feeling the shock is better because it will be over the standard but for the average punter to feel the decline in shock performance is asking allot & most wouldn't feel it on the VFR. Any after market shock built for the VFR has a remote compression reservoir for a reason, there R&D looking at fitments & operation is why they have that design. There is really zero R&D bolting in place any shock other than what was designed for the VFR so you have to weigh up the advantages & disadvantages. The room is already tight but if I was going to use say the 929 shock I would make the effort to mount reservoir away from headers & would still wrap the rear headers in heat tape." I personally would NOT want to run a shock on my bike basically having it cooking itself. The whole idea of the remote reservoir is to get the charge and oil away from heat, not to put it into the oven. Now for track days it might not be as bad as your only riding for 15-20 mins. at a time, but like zROYz stated this orientation of the reservoir will only cause issues(shock fade) that you are trying to avoid IMO! Just because you can fit the thing in there doesn't mean it's a good application or use. IMO it would be a much better install if the reservoir was facing rearward away from the head/exhaust like it was designed to do on a CBR. BR

This is NOT the best method for fork oil change as complete disassembly would provide complete cleaning, BUT it's great for a quick refresh of anything currently in the forks and it can be performed 30min before a ride! On oil level: I've already done all the calculations to achieve correct oil levels while forks are still on the bike! It amounts to adding 10mm from measured oil level height to give true level. ie: measure 100mm level on bike, actual is 110mm. BR

We would like ALL the info on this install as you are the first to get a 929 shock to fit a Vtec w/o more mods. Please tell us exactly what and how you did it, where was the spacer installed? Top or bottom, what way was the reservoir facing? front or rear, is it hitting the head or tray? etc., etc. There are several members trying to get their 929 shock to fit w/o any luck. Thanks BR This is not a true statement. I have built MANY of these and they were installed without a problem. The 6th Gens are tight but it can be done without modifcation. Not sure why you are trying to discourage other forum members but this is a very viable performance upgrade for non-ABS 02+ bikes. Jamie, I am only trying to help our members! They contact me for install help when trying to install 929 shocks (their buying from you) on a vtec and up until slowhare's install post I have never heard of a successful install on that app w/o the support bracket mod. If it's a doable install then all I've been asking for is a usable procedure that can be posted up here on VFRD to help these members who Can't figure out how to make the 929 shock fit on their Vtecs! That's it. There's a thread active now WITH A MEMBER ASKING FOR THIS EXACT HELP AND A SECOND MEMBER POSTED IN THE SAME THREAD SAYING HE COULDN'T GET IT TO WORK EITHER! Both are your customers. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/72834-cbr929-shock-fitment-02-non-abs/#entry859493 Can you help here??? BR