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Posts posted by Marsman99
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I haven't seen anything to cover up the mount when the box is off, but it would be a nice option now that you mention it. I see that you don't have any of the four hole covers on your mount. I had to silicone mine on since the fit of the covers was so loose.
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ThatGuy,
The following might help in your eval:
I just rolled 100K miles on my 2010, which I bought new in 2014. My mileage has been roughly 70% commute and 30% sport. The commute has been all freeway between 70-80 mph, while the sport riding has been long road trips (>2K miles) through the western US, all windy country, canyon and mountain roads.
The bike has been flawless, not a single issue other than an oil leak that was self-inflicted. Other than standard maintenance it is true to the VFR line in terms of fit, finish and reliability.
I bought the DCT and have to say it is awesome. Obviously for the commute, but even better in the corners. Once you get the hang of paddle shifting, banging a shift mid corner under power or de-accel without chassis upset feels, well, like cheating. The DCT is a polarizing option, but most that don't like it probably haven't spent much time on it.
As Skids says, it is a heavy bike but for me only noticeable in parking lots and in the tightest of successive corners. Anything else and this thing is a rock, a powerful rock.
I've copied most of the mods detailed by the pioneer 1200 owners on this very site (I think the archives still exist). The stock suspension sucks and there are plenty of good options for upgrade. I went with DMr front and back and they have been a great option considering price/performance. That would be the first fix I'd recommend.
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Miguel,
I'll add my voice to the chorus of thank you's for all you've done for the site and the members. I've benefitted immensely over the last decade. I hope the site gets a new life somewhere and if so you can hang out as a member.
To those members with the wherewithal and knowledge to save the site, please count me in for financial support, or anything else I can do to keep this going.
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Hi Marsman99,
Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.
Thanks VFRDiscussion
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Hi Anonymous,
Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.
Thanks VFRDiscussion
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Hi Marsman99,
Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.
Thanks VFRDiscussion
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Hi Anonymous,
Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.
Thanks VFRDiscussion
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3 hours ago, JoeVFR said:
The manual provides the gaps spec's for either side of an exhaust rocker arm. You can use either gap spec. to make your adjustment via the adjuster screw. The adjuster screw is the only adjustment for an exhaust rocker arm.
#1 is an intake cam lobe for cyl. 2, gap adjusted via shim. #2 is an exhaust adjuster for cyl. 2, set gap at the valve end or the roller end per the respective gap spec. #3 is the roller end of an exhaust rocker for cyl. 3. Follow this rocker arm to the right to find the adjuster, adjust using respective gap spec for either end.
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9 hours ago, JoeVFR said:
Rocker arm is not removed. Start at the red circle and follow the rocker arm to the other end. There is a locknut and adjuster screw there...clearly visible in the photo. Use them to adjust the gap between the cam lobe and roller. Just like a see-saw...right side up, left side down. So, if you have too large a gap at the cam/roller, just loosen locknut and screw the adjuster CW. Did I mention the PAIR o-rings...
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8 hours ago, JoeVFR said:
Got my vfr all apart......
I know how todo the shims, and I know how to ajust the tappets...... I know how to check the rollers and they have to big of a gap.... but it doesn't look like they have an ajustment??????
There is a set screw and lock nut on the other side of the exhaust roller arm that adjusts the exhaust valve roller/cam gap.
Be sure to replace the PAIR o-rings and use grease to hold them in place during install, or you'll end up with this:
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Hi Marsman99,
Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.
Thanks VFRDiscussion
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On September 17, 2017 at 8:37 AM, c5ip said:
There are two o-ring seals on both head covers for the PAIR valve air joints. One of those on the back head cover fell off. To me, it seemed like it was burning oil vice leaking it. Page 9-8 of the service manual shows the o-rings in question.
Ah, a lights on moment. Yes, a leaky PAIR o-ring would allow top end oil into the exhaust port and burned in the exhaust gas. I'm usually pretty careful during reassembly, but will check this now. This could be more pronounced on decel when the PAIR pushes air into the exhaust port. Thanks. Miguel may want to look at this too.
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On September 13, 2017 at 12:38 PM, c5ip said:
Same here...60K miles with no oil burn. I change oil and filter every 3K. Only time I had an issue was during a valve inspection when an o ring on the back valve cover fell off while putting the cover back on. It used oil at a rate of about a half quart every 500 miles. Once I got the o ring back on it stopped using oil. That was over 25K miles ago.
C5ip, I read on another thread regarding valve adjusts someone commented on burning oil because dealer forgot a seal on the back cover. This loops me back to your comment. Did your bike burn oil or leak oil w/o the seal? I can't recall any seals that are touched during valve adjust which would permit oil into the combustion chamber or exhaust.
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2 hours ago, swimmer said:
@Marsman99 , do you think that might be your problem as well? That you are missing the o-ring seal on the valve cover after your valve inspection?
Nope, there are no leaks anywhere that I can see...on the bike or floor. I'm going to tear into it this weekend to try to figure it out.
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9 hours ago, swimmer said:
How many miles on your motorcycle and what is your standard oul change interval? That's a hell of a lot of oil to lose.
Yeah, it is. My 1200 has roughly 46.5k miles on it. Oil/filters changed per Honda service intervals, i.e. every 8k. Should not be having any such issues...it's a VFR after all. My '94 has >120k on it and doesn't lose a drop of oil. I'll be keeping tabs very closely now and doing some testing.
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Very interested in anything you've come up with Miguel. My 1200 has been puffing a small bit of oil smoke on start up. Been doing this over the last 2 oil changes. Oil level drops in the sight glass between changes but has never dropped below low mark...so I've carried on. Two days ago after a bit of twisty road, the oil pressure light came on. Pulled over and saw no oil in sight glass. Had Mrs. Marsman bring out a few qts., and it took 1 3/4 to fill. I'm still 1500 miles from next scheduled change, so it has gotten significantly worse. Not absolutely sure, but seems to have started roughly after I ran through a valve check/adjust. Can't think of anything I could I have buggered up, but looks to be the "smoking gun". Unless we're seeing early stage of a mfg. defect.
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Hi Marsman99,
Thank you for your donation of $25.00. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.
Thanks VFRDiscussion
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Yikes. That does not sound "normal", though I haven't replicated your test. There is driveline lash, but that sounds excessive. Have you had the recall done yet?
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Interesting read, thanks Ishark. It's a nit, and I assume obvious, but in the repair procedure they don't specifically mention replacing the affected shaft with the countermeasure shaft in the VFR1200 F/FD section as they do on page 11 in the VFR1200X_XD section.here's a copy of the service bulletin for the recall
VFR1200 Propeller Shaft Repair Method.pdf
these are from Honda in Australia
SBMC1525-VFR1200 Drive Shaft Recall.pdf
looks like they don't have to drain the final drive oil....you're going to have to pay for a change
Looks like a lot of work to be done for roughly an hour of labor as allowed in the recall bulletin. Also, at least in Australia, no one can buy a 1200 from a dealer until this repair is done. Pretty sure simiiar law applies elsewhere.
Have we discovered if they are saying ALL VFR1200s are affected by this or only ones that fail a check (which check? There isn't one in either of those downloads, just replacement procedure)? Or is it only certain years or is it by a check?
On the first page of the recall bulletin they state these are the affected units by VIN:
Affected units
VFR1200F/FD/X/XD
JH2SC63U*AK000002 – JH2SC63U*FK400061
JH2SC70U*CK000002 – JH2SC70U*FK300048
Note: The asterix * denotes the check digit
But my dealer said his on-line info stated all units were to receive the repair. So, there is indeed some confusion.
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i was just looking at the service manual (pg 14-6), it doesn't seem to be a terribly difficult job, swing arm doesn't have to be removed
In fact, the Honda sevice tech quoted me one hour to do the full warranty repair, which I was a bit surprised by. It would take me an hour just to clear my workbench, read the manual, and crack open a beer.
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Went to my dealer yesterday armed with the info on my 1200. They pulled up the recall bulletin on the computer and said it was news to them, hadn't received any separate notices from mother Honda. They printed out the full repair procedure Honda provided. However, the PN's for the new parts weren't available in their system yet, so they couldn't schedule the repair until they were. They also said the bulletin said no checking required, just full parts replacement and it didn't segregate repair based on VIN, year etc. - all were to be repaired.
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Convertibars for 7th gen... or any better risers?
in Modification Questions
Posted
On my 1200 the limit on bar height and angle are the cables and the front fairing at full lock. I have Helibars and they are a definite improvement, but it took every bit of the available envelope to get it. Could use another inch in height...story of my life.