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Corey

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Everything posted by Corey

  1. Obviously a lot of time and effort went into this post. Thanks. I vote for Troutdale. Note: I don't think Dutch Mountain/Pumpkin Ridge Road/Otto Miller/ Dairy Creek section is paved.
  2. Montrose, CO is too far. It would take me 3 days to get there and 3 days back. That would add 6 days to the 4 day event. I can't do 10 days. Sure wish there was something happening closer like the PNW Oregon Trail Ride.
  3. I was just wanting to change the oil. My seals are fine as far as I can tell. Nothing is leaking externally. Based on the look of the fork oil I removed (clean looking) my guess was that the previous owner had worked on them not that long ago, possibly right before I bought the bike. The whole point of trying the 30 minute oil change (for me) was to keep the forks on the bike so I didn't have to battle the triple clamp bolts under up under the fairing. And because it was my first time dealing with forks myself. I let both forks drain a long time. I did remove the cartridge and pumped out all of the old oil before reinserting it. If anything there was a small spot at the bottom of the fork near the drain hole and very light residual oil left the sidewalls of the tubes. I know these small amounts add up and will be added to the overall quantity of oil I add. I probably should have used some brake cleaner to clean it out properly, but at the time my reasoning was that I didn't feel that small amount would make a difference (as I am sure there is residual oil inside the cartridge as well). However, maybe I am wrong. My manual (1998-2001) states "Fluid Capacity 457ml plus or minus 2.5ml". I put exactly 457ml in using a syringe. My real concern is whether or not oil is able to make its way into the cartridge if it wasn't pre-pumped in prior to the fork cap being tightened (creating some sort of air pressure issue?). I don't know enough about forks/suspension to know.
  4. Well, there were a few challenging things with my forks on the bike "30 minute" fork oil change. It ended up taking me hours. I need some advice on whether or not I need do it over or not. I'll cut out most of the details and hiccups accept for the few things that concern me with the job I did. It is a bit hard to explain but I will do my best. Tire off, fork oil drained. No problems. Cartridge assembly out (the oil lock piece from the bottom of the tube came up with it. Great). Everything looked good inside. Now we come to the issues. A. Because the forks were left on the bike and because I didn't have a long enough tool that could reach down and grab the damper rod to pump the cartridge full of oil (once there was oil in there) I ended up keeping the cartridge assembly in one piece and then just measured exactly 457ml of fork oil (as stated in the manual) using a syringe. Because I left the cartridge assembly in one piece I could not measure down 130mm into the fork tube. I just went with the 457ml. 1. Is using the stated volume (457ml) instead of measuring down to the fork oil (130mm) going to be a problem? B. Because I wasn't able to pre-pump the cartridge with oil (because I didn't have a long enough tool to grab the damper rod and I because I left the cartridge assembly in one piece) I chose to just add the 457ml of fork oil and then screw on the fork cap. 1. Is it imperative that I pre-load the cartridge with oil? 2. I figured I could just compress the forks once everything is capped off and everything would work itself out internally? Am I wrong? 3. Do I need to do it over and/or open the cap to relieve pressure or something? Or is this a non-issue? C. My spanner wrenches were so thick that I couldn't get one on the damper adjuster and one on the lock nut. The wrench would overlap because the nuts were so close. I ended up hand tightening and then doing my best to get them tight with the wrenches. I don't know how successful I was at getting them tight. I don't know that I really got them that tight. 1. Is it going to be a problem if that nut isn't torqued down? D. For some reason the left drain lock bolt (on the bottom of the fork) didn't seem to go back in as deep as the one on the right side. Maybe by 1-2mm. I started them by hand so I don't think they are cross threaded. 1. Is this acceptable? I rode it around the block a few times doing some hard braking and compressing the forks. It didn't bottom out or really feel any different than before the oil change. I really am not enough of a suspension expert to even know what to look or feel for when evaluating suspension. And again, I don't know if the method I used to change the oil was acceptable.
  5. The "30 minute" fork oil change has turned into a 2 hour fork oil change. The oil lock piece got stuck at the bottom and I didn't have long enough tools to grab it or the damper rod when it falls back inside the fork tube. Took me forever to finally get it all lined up enough to hit it with a impact gun. Does the bottom lock nut look like it is in to the proper depth?
  6. Does this ride happen every year? Is it being planned for this year?
  7. It looks like I missed out on a great adventure. Is this ride a yearly thing? If so, I will have to keep my calendar open for next year.
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