VFROZ

The stock 5G tubes are 34mm

If you're asking how the new shim stack on the top compares to the old C33 stack on the bottom, the answer is they are fairly the same.

Slightly stiffer bottom shims will slightly change how and when the shims bend, but they are not that much different.

They might give a bit more flow on high speed bumps from my reading.

But if you're doing compression valves, you need to do rebound as well.

Hi VFROZ,

Thank you for your donation of 15.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

I'm with Moose here.

You need to know what the base was before you strart adding stuff.

If in doubt, (and it sounds like you are) disconnect everything and start from scratch.

If not you're just chasing your tail.

SP1/2 wheel uses 22mm axle.

It is the odd one out of honda wheels.

But you can get bearings to fit smaller or larger axles.

Attached is an info sheet I put together, I'm sure it is accurate but you might need to double check.

FORK AND DISK INFO.xlsx

I don't think you're reading that drawing correctly. 

The 6G still uses the centre rear piston. 

You just can't bleed it via front lever, (you can't on the 5G either), you need to squeeze the secondary master to do it. 

I just think the last drawing was changed to reflect where you can bleed by pressing front lever. 

Using a vacuum pump on a stock nipple will pull air through the threads. 

They need to be sealed with thread tape or the like for it to work. 

3 hours ago, BrianL said:

Hi Fink, what's involved in that?  My understanding was that taking the original 8th-gen screen off (or putting it on) was very simple. I happened to be in the dealer's yesterday and asked the service manager's advice.  He made it sound quite difficult and told me the mirrors would have to be removed. Given that they have wiring it all started to sound more involved than I'd thought.

A service manager making it sound harder than it is, well I never...

3 hours ago, shaynus said:

Sigh...  that's one problem with living so far away from anywhere  - the cheapest set I found (4 plugs + harness) was at least $100 more than that. And that is from the UK. One 'local' (other side of the country) ebay seller is asking for $220 for the same thing!

I got the whole lot from the US for under AU$75 posted Shaynus. 

A bit of patience will pay off mate. 

Its cheap. Its aesy to do. It declatters the top of the bike. It is a newer technology. And it saves weight.

Simple maths.

It doesn't mean that everyone has to do it, but its a great mod for us tinkerers.

This is why I used the GSXR coil packs, they have a boot that fits in and over the VFR rocker cover well. 

If water gets past the boot, it sits in the cam shaft bearing cover bolts an rusts. 

1 hour ago, CandyRedRC46 said:

-_- man I am pissed that I invested so much time and money in the vfr stuff, thinking that this kit wasn't going to come together and sure enough, right as I am getting reading to put it back together, the kit is for sale.

I think Keef mentioned his wife refers to the VFR as the vortex, my wife calls mine the money vacuum.

A friend of mine asked me why I got the rear sets and 8 spoke rear wheel, I told him I didn't understand the question.

It's a 2001, and now waiting for my 8 spoker to finish it off for now.

Something is not right.

There is huge amounts of adjustment on the exentric.

You can't have a problem with 108 being too short and 110 being too long as there is more adjustment then this available.

I've even used a 45 tooth sprocket instead of the 43 without extending the chain with no problems.

12 hours ago, Vee-Ef-Ar said:

Very nice VFROZ... and Seb.

 

Are they rubberised toe pieces?

No, anodised alloy. 

Just checked again, no, they are a hard plastic type material.

The stainless bolt goes all the way to the end of tip.

This. 

Thanks Seb. 

And these are the ones.

Mine are from a 2006 GSXR750. 

But you will find most Gixxers from that age are the same. 

No such problem with the GSXR coil packs, and after a quick trim the boots seal over and in the VFR cover. 

Hi VFROZ,

Thank you for your donation of 15.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

Keep the gap the same, there is no advantage to a bigger gap. Spark intensity is what you're after. 

Original wiring is fine. There is no load on them wires. 

Corrosion on the metal caps is only cosmetic, water does not get into the plug connection. 

Just make sure the CBR boots seal on the VFR cover. 

I used GSXR coil packs, and had to cut a bit of the bottom of the boot cover for a tight fit. 

^ No wonder they are so much fun to ride.

Looking good.

id be interested to see what was actually done to the water pump cover. 

Any chance you could take a picture?

Make sure you don't have too much oil in there. 

A pressure test won't show up a bad valve seal or guide. 

The circuit breaker bypasses the main fuse, so that is sorted.

You will need to solder the wires from the stator to the wires coming from the RR.

I also ran a new bigger gauge wire from the soldered earth bolock to the battery.

That should see you with many years of trouble free riding.

Adding a voltmeter will give you peace of mind.