Devorlast

I got some eBay H7 LEDs for mine years ago. The hardest part is ensuring the bulb with the fan and post is not too long. The top bulb has a beak-shaped plastic reflector that sticks out over the bulb, so if you pick one that is extra long, it might not fit. I had HID before and that's a pain in the rear and then some, with the ballasts and other pieces having to fit into the headlight housing somehow it was just not worth the effort in my opinion. I still have those HID pieces in the headlight housing since they are next to impossible to pry out through the lightbulb holes and the headlight housing seems to be sealed so I wasn't about to pry it apart.

Below is the fix my buddy did. The track is very small so using the copper foil wasn't going to work. I plugged it into the bike and all of the backlight LEDs come on now. I put some RTD silicone (all I had on hand) in that spot to cover the now-exposed connection and to keep further moisture from gathering there. I did think of using desiccant and gluing a bag inside so it doesn't move around and cause problems. Then again, the only reason I had this issue was cause the bike was outside one winter with fluctuating temps and humidity. I will put something on the rubber boot that covers the console connector, the console itself doesn't have a gasket but it has a pretty long knife edge all around. As for the tach, I figured as much, so I wasn't about to dig that deep and desolder it. I'm sure there is a way to get the dial off unless they put the whole assembly together and then soldered it to the card.

I talked to one of my ET buddies and he has a 2M shop next to NAS Oceana. I'm going there tomorrow, he said that he should be able to repair the track without a problem and do the eyelet as well. I'll post an update once we are done, I got the forks back together and on the bike today, so once the console is done all I will have left to do is reassemble the gazillion plastic pieces that make up the fairing.

Grum, I saw the corrosion in that spot, I wasn't 100% sure if that was it but after using an extra light as an "x-ray" I got the picture below. My red circle is a bit small but if you zoom in you can see that there is a break in the line connecting the eyelet to the R393. I verified that it's open with my meter. I was wondering if I should try to solder a jumper from the eyelet to either R393 or to the yellow-circled portion of the solder run. I have some soldering experience, but I'm a Navy electrician/engineer, so soldering fine electronics is a bit out of my expertise. I am worried about soldering to the resistor, the small ones can fail when submitted to a soldering iron heat. I do have a variable-temp soldering station and some pretty fine solder tips. On the other hand, I don't think soldering to the printed solder line would even work. recreating the solder line doesn't seem possible either considering how small it is and its proximity to the other two lines. I'm going to do some research on circuit board repair, a new one is $720 on Partzilla, so if I mess this one up Ill just end up spending the money I saved on doing my own fork seals on a new console...

A little while ago I had some moisture get into the dashboard display and not long after the backlight stopped working. I was wondering if anyone ever did any repairs to theirs. The backlight does not have separate lights, the LEDs are on the circuit board with the rest of the dashboard components. I am attaching the pictures of the board inside, I can't get the dial for the RPM off so I don't have full access to the circuit board. A new board is close to $1000, if I can't get it fixed I'll probably just leave it as is and try to get some auxiliary light set up to illuminate the speed display at least. Looking at the wiring diagram I can't tell which wire is for the backlight, I don't even know if it has a dedicated wire just for that or if it's a power supply line for the whole circuit.

I like aftermarket because of the lesser limitations, whether its material or legal considerations. Why for instance do you put a aftermarket pipe, fueling mod and some other tweaks in? Manufacturer has to adhere to stricter rules, which is especially visible in the emissions part of the house. Main reason for the pads though was that they were ready available on ebay from a reputable seller. Anyway, I will be calling EBC tomorrow and if that doesn't solve it Ill send the pads back. They wouldn't fit ANY bike the way they are right now, look at the picture.

So as my stock brake pads got pretty worn out I decided to replace them with some aftermarket ones. I got three packs of EBC brake pads, one for rear and two for the front calipers. After taking the stock rear pads out I noticed that the metal shape supporting the pad looks different than stocks, and the bracket piece that goes over the whole assembly fits a little awkward. Still it seemed to fit in the caliper just fine, that was until I tried to put the retainer pin back in. Turns out the loops on the EBC pads are too low so they hit the top of caliper casing and won’t align with the pin holes... After considering all my options I filed the excess metal [it was just a few millimeters so it didn’t compromise the structure of the pad in any way] and got it to fit, and surprisingly work pretty well as well. Then I moved to the front calipers and the real problem surfaced. Once I got the stock pads out and was about to put the new ones in I noticed that the two small pad pieces were not mirrored, instead they were the same. I got confused for a second thinking I was looking at it wrong or something but no, small pads from ABC actually came both same sided. I than opened the second pack of pads I had and they were the same... So basically someone in EBC made the design for those pads based of Honda manual but never QA'd his work or even bother fitting them to a bike to see if they work. I emailed the company to see if they reply, if not Ill send them back to the seller I got them from over eBay and get my money back, than get new stocks. Funniest thing of all was the big logo on the pad pack saying "support America, made in America!", I'm sure to look for Japanese parts next time... I have a photo of how do they look like included, didn’t take one of rear set as I didn’t think about it at the time.

I'm trying to upgrade the stock brake system on my 1200, but I'm not sure if it would interfare with the ABS system. I'm looking at a few things for it so far: Brembo master cylinder [ http://www.oppracing...ster-cylinders/ ] that website is not that good since it dosnt list a master cylinder for the 1200 or a way to figure out what size could you use, this one does through explain "how to" [ http://www.cyclebrakes.com/html/brembo_cylinders.html ] that one is one of the parts Im not so sure would fit right due to the ABS, any one swapped theirs? Thinking about getting one for the rear later on as well. Stainless steel brake lines front and back [ http://www.galferusa...ng-motorcycles/ ] I'll need the stock dimensions to get those made, if theyre not in the manual than it will be a little bit of searching around and measuring with a string to do... Brake pads EBC Sintered Double-H Rated Pads front and back [ http://www.perfectbr...ts.asp?cat=4083 ] Since calipers from Brembo are like 2000$ for just the front set and rotors are around 600$ a pop I decided to stick to stock with those... Do any of you know where is the ABS chip connected, and would swapping the master cyliner impact it in any way?

I'm not sure if I want to "fix" that dump in my 2010, first of the Z bomb on ebay says it dont work for DCT models. Plus that bog only bothers me in sport mode, I use drive for bad weather etc [since Honda got stingy and used 2010 as test rabbits, so TC didnt come out till now...]. I rode winth S mode all the time at first but even in San Diego during winter it rains sometimes, and after almost kissing a HVY divider I decided that speed+power+rain=a very bad day, pure luck and a little bit of skill taken from sliding around on my old 750 rear drum brake kept me from lowsiding. TC is a must if youre planning on going full power in bad weather. Now if any one ever ghettorigged a mod that would eliminate the bog in sport mode and manual only than hell yea but for now I think its a bad idea, unless you never ride in rain that is.