Mohawk

Squirt some brake cleaner in the disc bobbins & spin them, this ensures full floating disc. Check the disc alignment & that they are centred on the wheel hub, there is a little wiggle room. Also check the calliper sliding pins work as intended. For the throttle on track, just set a high idle of 2-3K rpm, then you never go on to the starter valves, its always on the butterfly. The rest as advised above.

I too have a SSSA stand but they don't work well if you work on the arm or shock 😂😂 Sorry away from home at the moment so can't check which year stand it was & was a long time ago, but it is documented on this site in my build threads. The adaptor has survived a 3 ferry trips where bikes are strapped down over the seat on their side stand. So pretty happy its strong enough.

I too have a SSSA stand but they don't work well if you work on the arm or shock 😂😂 Sorry away from home at the moment so can't check which year stand it was & was a long time ago, but it is documented on this site in my build threads. The adaptor has survived a 3 ferry trips where bikes are strapped down over the seat on their side stand. So pretty happy its strong enough.

Might have something to do with the amount of time he has been spending on one wheel with the supercharger fitted 😂😂

I used the shock length adjuster on my Nitron Race unit & had the same issue. I removed the centre stand & fitted a CBR1000 alloy side stand with my own adapter to compensate for the excess lean on side stand & its lighter to boot 😁 I still use the centre stand when removing the rear wheel by slipping it on temporarily then using a piece of wood under it so the rear wheel is off the ground so I can remove it, obviously this only works at home.

Are those alloy fittings ? If yes they are not recommended for road use, they are banned in UK & a bike would fail its annual test (MoT) if fitted. They are prone to vibration cracking & or snapping if hit in a crash/drop, or just a ham fisted accidental bump.

The only true way to measure is to compress the rear suspension, such that the gearbox sprocket, the swing arm, pivot, and the rear sprocket pivot are all in a straight line on their centres, then tighten the chain. Thats sets chain tension to the perfect setting regardless of suspension movement. YMMV

I see the cert has lapsed, so if there is going to be a change of admin/ownership it needs to happen soon. Happy to donate if the site will continue. Here's hoping 👍

Hispanicslammer, What you have done for the VFR community has been great & we applaud you for it. All good things must come to an end & if we can't find someone to replace you as super admin & take over & move the site, then so be it & thanks for all the fish 👍👍👍😁

I never knew JZH had a Toro kitted 5th gen. R U still in UK ? Where's the bike ?

No I could afford it now 👍😁

Its one of the regrets of my life, not buying the Toro Charger ☹️🤷‍♀️

As Stray says we had a little meet up at Mallory, a place I have never bern to before. It was great to meet Stray he has an infectious enthusiasm for all things two wheeled. Was good to put a face to the name & meet some other folks. Here's a pic of our intrepid hero on a Cough Cough, XJR1300, sorry still taken from a video. He had a long car drive the next day, I said he would be driving with both hands on the bottom of the wheel going "Ooh me arms" after muscling that thing around all day. He was doing well chasing down a guy on a Duc 916/996 thingy. Luck for him there were many enforced breathers as fellow enthusiasts repeatedly swapped bikes for undergrowth or gravel traps, with many thinking race rubber with tyre warmers would cut the mustard on the cold track surface ! If anyone does go to Mallory watch out for the off road excursion that Sally Sat Nav will take you if you are unlucky like me 😂 Was interesting to see how my F-pace handled the deep water filled ruts on the badly cut up lane 😳 Was good to meet you Stray & Lee. Next time will be on 2 wheels. And thanks for picking up the lunch tab 👍 Now get that MoT

The original headers have a large flange, the TBR & I assume these replicas have a narrow one because the pipe has a wider internal diameter. You want a gasket that fits in the exhaust port outlet & does not protrude into the exhaust port area to maximise flow. When you pull the existing exhaust the gaskets normally stick to the port, you will see the stock gaskets protrude into the exhaust port flow area. You want to avoid that. So using a wider diameter gasket that just fits inside the outer port & seals the header flange without protruding into the exhaust port area. I supplied the original dimensions to the guys when creating these headers. Cast head ports are not guaranteed to be exactly the same, so if possible its best to measure yours & buy the widest & thinest gasket that will fit & seal. Have fun.

I use a Nitron Race 4 way adjustable (hi/low speed compression, rebound & preload) with remote reservoir on mine & its brilliant. 10 years 30K miles & still works great.

I've thought about doing this & on the 5th gen using the flapper valve vacuum which opens at 5krpm IIRC 👍 Also thought about standoff fi using the same trigger to switch feed from in TB injectors to above velocity stack ones. Not sure how much it would gain but an idea.

Stick with a PC3 unless you need the additional functions of the PCV or RBE, the RBR is overkill as 5th Gen won't take much if any ignition advance. I'm not sure if PC do a FuelCommander for the VFR. Re the exhaust outlet I think the Wild was spec'd to take the Honda link pipe and its stupidly thick gasket. Everyone else's headers come with 2" (51mm) exit for direct connect to link pipe with paste sealant & no gasket. 5th Gen only needs 1x O2 eliminator resistor to kill Fi fault light. Can be on either circuit. Stock O2 feed from ECU is NOT man enough for a wideband sensor, so I coupled both together to feed my wideband from the ECU. PCV bypasses stock O2 & just fits eliminators to kill the Fi fault light. This generates electrical resistance on the O2 heater circuit. But with no Lambda circuit the ECU defaults to a fixed map imternally. Then you tune the fuelling from this base setting. PC use 13.2/1 AFR which I believe may have been correct back in the 70's on Air cooled, iron bored, carbed bikes. But is way to rich for EFI water cooled machines. I currently run 14.4/1 AFR & the bikes makes as much power as before, dyno tested. Gets better mpg, runs at the same coolant temps. I hope that helps.

Hi Mohawk, Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

5th gen has defined balance, 6th gen has an equal balance. But I believe that a variation on the 5th gen theme is better using a lower figure for the cylinder with -20. A quick cost saving method is to use a twin gauge system. Calibrate both on the reference cylinder, then use the spare one to measure the other 3 cylinders. Mine revs so freely when set correctly 👍

I just checked my engine braking control settings. 0.02ms, +99%, disable engine braking management @2000rpm

Its been a long time since I set it, so will stick a computer on it tomorrow & find out.

Reducing the engine braking makes a real difference to smoothness of the off/on transition. I set it on mine & its great. Re the fuelling I have the latest Bosch wideband sensor & MTB & currently run it at 14.4/1 it runs really good & returns great MPG with no engine temp issues even in hot weather (up to 30c). YMMV 👍

5th Gen, 98-99 largest diameter headers, made in mild steel. No O2 sensors, no CAT. 00-01 slightly narrower headers, with 2x O2 bungs. Plus Cat also mild steel. Motad SS headers are copies of 98-99 models with O2 bungs. Can be used on all models which may explain finding a 99 with O2 bungs !

If anyone wants those flange nuts, get a group buy going & if you cover post the postage to USA I'll accept them in UK & post them for you. Best if sent to one US location & then sent USPS from their 👍