Mohawk

ZX9R 👍

Plus a rider as weight distribution without is pointless !

Looks the same to me. Make shock longer raises rear end by changing the swingarm angle. A shorter dogbone changes the leverage ratio & may/may not dictate a change in spring rate. IIRC from the excellent Suspension Smith shorter tie bars reduces required spring rate. So if your test riders report harsher rear end, it will likely be over sprung due to the leverage change. Mine is over 2" higher at the rear. Shorter links are usually only used if you want more ride height & don't have an adjustable length shock or one without enough adjustment to suit your needs.

😂😂 Aha achieved the same with an adjustable length shock ! 🎅Merry Xmas 🎅

Whats the difference between yours & the stock dog bone ?

Nope works great on mine.

Err no, no one builds helmets to different standards. They build them to the hardest one to pass if they sell globally.

Interesting titbit, I was in Japan last month for a bike tour with a friend. We went to some Tokyo bike shops & Arai & Shoei helmets were half the price they are in the UK. So I suspect the pricing is due to importers bigging up the Japanese quality/cost ratio for pure profit. Don't get me wrong they are quality helmets, but not worth twice as much as many other good brands IMO.

The VFR800's have MMC bores, not Iron liners. It has SS piston rings. So no need to ever put oil in the bores. As for fuel, depends how long you leave it. I used to use fuel stab, but stopped a couple of years back after an accident meant I didn't use the VFR for a year. Reattached charged battery cycled fi a couple of times using kill switch then it started 2nd press of the button 👍

Meh factory version is a bit of a dogs dinner. The aftermarket set is much better. But still just a posh frock for an average bike. I just discovered Toyota do a 4x4 GT Sport version of the Yaris 😳. Now that's what would sell in bike terms, not a fairing with a paint job !

Heated clothing & gloves is so much better than heated grips. Different ethos, grips are great for slighty cooler than you expected rides. But heated clothing is the thing for proper cold riding. I used to use it commuting on those winter dry days so no ice but very cold less than zero C temps @ 90mph I had to turn the heat down ! 😳

Hi Mohawk, Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

The alternative is find a clear picture & have it printed/cut in Vinyl & lacquer it in as per standard stickers. I did that for the RC45 Force-V4 ones on mine 👍

You can make your own very easily. If you buy a replacement seat cover plus a couple of small or one large heat pad, then fit the pad(s) where they best fit your butt heating requirements & add the new seat cover. Add an on/off switch &/or a temperature controller & job done. I use heated under clothing which is great & can be used on any bike just add a connector for the gear. Works best with a temp controller as anything more than 2/3rds heat on my Gerbing suit is too much even at 90mph on sub-zero dry days.

I can't recall what the manual says. But this is my crib sheet kept on the inside of my gauge box. Cylinder-1 is reference & not adjustable. Cyl-2 should be equal to Cyl-1. Cyl-4 should be -10 from reference & Cyl-3 should be -20 from reference. All figures are MM of vacuum. When set like this on a stock or aftermarket 5th gen exhaust the engine is super smooth & revs very crisply. Make sure you have a 5th gen exhaust, as 6th gen will fit & rear headers are closer to same length so uses different vacuum settings. On 5th gen front pipes do NOT cross & #1 cylinder is the top/rear most pipe by right foot peg. 6th gen front pipes cross each other because #1 cylinder is inner/forward pipe by right foot peg, thus front pipes cross to keep the front rear cylinder pairings the same. Cylinders on all VFR's are 1+3 at rear & 2+4 at front, with #1 at rear left when sat on the bike.

Very sad news. My condolences to his family. R.I.P sfdownhill/Lance ☹️

If you meed a power tap & just for a phone then you can tap the cooling fan supply. Been running my 5th gen from there forever. Just use a inline fuse on the wire by the tap.

Well done the A-Team 👍

I checked this block on mine & on opening it & removing the bridge pieces it all looked great. When checking the cables entering the block green corrosion was apparent. So I cut all the cables off the block & half a dozen had bad surface corrosion. So I stripped them back, cleaned up the individual strands with abrasive & intertwined & soldered all together then sealed with amalgamating over wrap. All my weird issues went away 👍 If you do this I would advise adding an additional thick ground wire to the bundle & run it direct to the battery negative terminal.

I'd just say to anyone out there with a 5th Gen to check the fairing below the headlight. There is a small infill panel that pops out to allow the parking bulb to be changed. It also pops out accidentally & then lets rain & spray in that corrodes the tracks on the dash circuit board. Just tape it up if you don't have the infill, its not visible so most people don't know its there ! ☹️

From what you have said if I read it correctly one bearing fits as you might expect but the other is a tight fit as you start it, then goes loose once far enough in to seat against the inner bearing spacer. If that is correct it sounds like the spacer is too short. One of the Kawasakis I used to have had that setup. The bearing on one side was a traditional fit to a shoulder in the wheel, the others depth was controlled by the spacer. After powder coat & a couple of months between removal & refitting I used the wrong spacer & the bearing floated inside the wheel. Once I realised my mistake & got it out I was able to put it in correctly. Bearing goo will not work unless you have a means to centralise the shaft to the wheel exactly. Check you parts are all correct ! Wouldn't be the first secondhand parts that came with wrong bits installed !

The steering stem does not need the top yoke to set the head bearings. Just make sure the shells are fully seated. Don't even need bearings to locate the shells properly. Then add bearings & adjust as per Larry's advice 👍

When you say you checked the spider block, did you just pull the bridge out of the block ? And it all looked clean ? I did that on mine then cut the block out as the earths were corroded in the crimps for the block. I stripped & cleaned all the wires & soldered them together to replace the block connector. Bike has been much better since !

Just a little where the frames crossed the fold in areas.

Clutch disengaged (lever in) the clutch gear drive is still engaged but doing nothing. Clutch engaged (lever out) in neutral, the gear drive is spinning the gearbox & the clutch lash springs bounce about to smooth the clutch on the gear. I suspect this is what you are hearing.