Mohawk

So here is my electric water pump installed. Second pic shows main coolant flow with Yellow arrows same on diagram. Orange arrows show T-stat (Thermostat) circuit that allows heated coolant from head to be circulated by the water pump to the T-stat until warm enough to open the T-stat. Once T-stat opens main yellow flow takes over. Diagram shows location of my 25mm to 11mm (IIRC) T-piece hose joiner in the lower rad return hose to allow T-stat to be retained with the electric pump which only has an inlet & outlet for the main flow. Not a perfect solution but it works. Hope that all makes sense 👍

He's hilarious 😂 Fantastic write up Spiros. Was great to see you again & visit anothers secret Skunk works garage to chew the fat. Thanks again for lunch. We look forwrd to regular updates 👍 Pep says keep that work space tidy 😂👍

There is one possibility, there was one guy that prepped an 800 for one of the open class Y2K races but was not allowed to compete. Might have been that but I've no idea what mods were done in the preparation.

MoT checker says that reg is yellow. https://vehicleenquiry.service.gov.uk/VehicleFound?locale=en The plate says it was supplied by Bowers Motorcycles a now defunct large bike dealer in Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk. I can't see any mention of them as a TT competitor nor sponsor. So I think your acquaintance may have been fed a line of BS. Looks awfully like a 1999 bog stock VFR 🤷‍♀️

Apparently it was wet at 1998 TT, so here's RC45 best from 1997 and some production RC45 results to boot.

There was one 1998 VFR800 competitor that rode a VFR800 in the Production class.

The man said VFR800R & having spent years digging into the VFR800/RC45 lineage I do not recall ever hearing of any VFR800R's official or otherwise. So if you can re energise that picture I'd be interested in a look.

You can either buy the 98-99 parts, or if you look at them you can see its a simple bracket to hold the end of the cable & if you remove the wax unit you can make a bracket for the cable & attach to the same point as the wax unit mounts & choke lever. Then you can order the 98-99 choke lever. The 2K's have a blank plate on the right side of the left switch gear, but the rest is all there. Same part may fit from other models like CBR600 etc as a lot of Hondas from that tome used the same switch gear. My wax unit was working fine before I upgraded the engine, then it would take choke off too early at too low a temp & bike would die at idle. Now I can keep choke on until temp reaches 60C & then it's off & all OK.

I was referring to the left side of the bike rather than the wax unit. I'm fairly sure that flow direction is immaterial as it's just a heating circuit. I replaced mine with a 99 choke cable setup, best thing for them IMO & just ran a hose direct from left nipple off take to the thermostat nipple.

The wax unit appears to have a hose on each nipple, so I assume you have the loose end of the left side one in your hand. It goes to a nipple on the top of the left side engine coolant intake stub in the edge of the left side V of the engine. The other hose goes to the thermostat housing.

With some ingenuity you could just swap the thermo element from any correct size temp unit into your old Honda part.

Not really required. I added temp sensors to the cooler lines & the VFR does not get that hot to worry about. The cooling system can get warm, but not too hot if everything works as it should. A simple tip for anyone in a warm environment is to reduce the anti-freeze percentage, as it is a poor coolant & distilled water is an excellent one ! In UK summer temps 20-35c mine runs @ 75-84c when moving.

VF750S or F or VF500 replacement collectors possibly Motad !? I replied to the picture, but see you have a VF1000, so probably Motad if in UK/Europe

Well for a start you are comparing completely different bikes, so a lot more than tyres are involved. Like geometry, weight distribution, body positioning etc. Dunlops normally have a steeper V profile & usually a sharper turn in because of that. For a start check your tyre pressures, as soft tyres can hamper steering response making the bike slow to turn.

You need to understand the loads through the part. It's what holds the swingarm & suspension parts in place & is the leverage point for all of it as well as the connection to the frame. Due to the leverage ratios it can have quite a load through it. The adjustable units would need to be doubled up IMO to be able to take the load without any worry.

What about this CBR650 Has the correct bars, modern look twin headlights & its from a Honda !

Look up the Bio-Blade a VFR800 running on methanol with CBR1000R fairings

Onwards and upwards, come on John get the lead out 😂

NR750 Replica set. There was a guy on here or maybe VFR World that did one. There is a fibre glass set made by someone for a CBR900 so wide enough to accommodate your radiator! But required a lot of work to get it right. But was excellent in the end.

ZX9R 👍

Plus a rider as weight distribution without is pointless !

Looks the same to me. Make shock longer raises rear end by changing the swingarm angle. A shorter dogbone changes the leverage ratio & may/may not dictate a change in spring rate. IIRC from the excellent Suspension Smith shorter tie bars reduces required spring rate. So if your test riders report harsher rear end, it will likely be over sprung due to the leverage change. Mine is over 2" higher at the rear. Shorter links are usually only used if you want more ride height & don't have an adjustable length shock or one without enough adjustment to suit your needs.

😂😂 Aha achieved the same with an adjustable length shock ! 🎅Merry Xmas 🎅

Whats the difference between yours & the stock dog bone ?