Mohawk

A very sweet project. If you intercool then use a water/air cooler with separate radiator electric pump. I'd love to see some pics of the turbo exhaust & boost pipe plumbing. Ask Larry he scored an RC45 race one for Mr RC45 I believe. So I hope he has weights for standard (close to 5th gen) and the race unit.

Is there enough clearance under that rad for the front wheel ? It might hit at full compression ! The oil cooler can help, a bigger one would reduce the temp of the oil returned, but it would work better if placed in front of the header pipes. The cooler lines on the VFR feed the cooled oil to the high pressure pump pickup chamber, so it will have an effect. That said the oil needs to be at a reasonable temperature to do its job properly. Too cold allows sloppy plain bearing fit, to hot causes seizure, so there are limits, as oil was NOT intended specifically as a coolant in this engine. Looks good.

Hi Yaman, regarding the Rapidbike Master software, I assume it comes with the Race unit, or do we need to download it ?

Hey Rush, mines a Y2K 5th Gen, with O2 sensors, so you are not on your own !

I've equipped my 5th gen with Ramair, I've had it to a true 140mph & it's was still accelerating hard. If you look up my 10 year refresh threads, then 1st & second versions are detailed there. I basically sealed the under tank area to the airbox & sealed the edges to the tank to the frame where the original intake was. Then fitted a scoop below the head stock, between the oil cooler & the cross rad hose.

Nope, SA1713 was !

Hi CR, I was actually referring to the OP's build ;)

so as its been over a month, any news on this build ?

Well this one runs & runs every few months ;) Honda messed up when they put the side rads on, as they can trap stones between the rad & the fan. The fan is normally on the back of the rad, but they didn't leave room & had to fit it to the front. THAT is the ONLY reason the fan sucks from the outside of the bike. The major problem with that is the lack of a fan on the right rad. So hot air get put into the fairing void, cooking the engine & the right rad does nothing at all to cool the engine. Again that is because the right rad does nothing & now drawing air through the left rad the correct way, actually sucks air through the right rad into the void & this hot air gets pulled through the left rad, achieving nothing. So the best solution, is two fold, one swap the VFR fan blade for a VTR one & fit a large stone grill over the back of the fan motor support frame, this is what Honda should have done. On the VTR they left a large gap between the blade & the rad, this deals with most road sized debris, but reduces the fans effectiveness. On the VFR the blade is too close to the rad, so a grill is required to keep any large debris out, to stops the fan blade using it to destroy the rad fins ! YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. So I have the following on mine, VTR fan blade + grill. Right rad fan added, this being a very high flow PC cooling fan fitted on the inside of the rad front half with a protective stone grill, but you could use some of the new slimline fans from CBR's but they are all puller fans so should fit on the outside of the rad. I also have a lower temp fan switch fitted in place of the standard one in the left rad. This works perfectly & turns on the fans early before the bike gets silly hot & thus the fans have an easier time cooling the engine. Last summer we had 32c (90f) air temps in the UK, which is unusual & my bike never got hot once, even when stuck in traffic with local air temps over the tarmac of over 100f. The joy is by pumping air through both rads, they suck cool air in from in front of the bike & out both sides. I also have an electric water pump, which circulates the coolant at a constant rate, where a mechanical pump is really needed is when its pumping the least & the rest of the time it over pumps. I can turn off the engine when I stop & leave the ignition on & the water pump does its job & the fans work if needed.

yeah been there done that & 30mm is the most length you can lose & still have a good VS entry. You could radius the airbox mouths & shorten by another 10mm, but not sure if it would flow as much air. The TB's are good for 1mm increase to 38mm, but as per Bioblade testing, they are NOT the restrictive area. Making them bigger will achieve nothing, but messing up the fuelling. Cam lift & duration limit the breathing of this engine. It lacks compression which is easily fixed on the 6th Gen, but much harder on the 5th gen, but can be done.

The RC45 has the same inlet track as the 800, the 45 as standard has a 46mm TB, but with a 40mm velocity stack. The 45 race kit opens this by replacing the VS with full width ones. The man Larry, made a replica set, spent ages on it & LOST power everywhere. Without the race kit, it's a bad idea. My modified VS are 40mm diameter & 30mm shorter, but I've not got round to dynoing them yet. The idea is they should move torque higher up the rev range & thus increase HP. We will see ;)

The journalist that had the BioBlade done told me, that some mild head work (suspect HRC RC45 mods) some cams, new exhaust one off by Arkropovic & an aftermarket airfilter gave it 124rwhp, 130 on methanol. It retained the standard airbox, as they had to pass noise tests !

Yeah the lights on the PC are fuel adjustment not Throttle Position !

Total waste of time unless you are racing, they do NOT do anything useful & are of NO benefit to a normal road machine.

If you look at some of the early V4 collectors, for that is what he has built here, they enclose much of the primary header, so what looks like very short primaries are actually much longer ! You could do the same with this setup, thus giving more baffle area to play with. It's a nice first try, but could be improved as far as sound control is concerned.