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I have replaced my hub assembly, I noticed movement when removing wheel for new tyre. A good check is when bike on center stand grab wheel & try to wiggle you can feel movement if bearings bad, just don't mistake the small amount of movement in shock linkages is the hub. I have a press so removed bearings from hub but due to reason tyre was being changed for trip away I was time limited to fix before trip & couldn't get replacement bearings in time. But lucky for me a mate had a new hub assembly for his 5th gen which is a different part number to the 6th gen but fits the same. There isn't much cost difference buying complete hub & buying the bearings, if you add the time etc to fit bearings the hub replacement is the way to go. It was an effort to remove hub from bike & axle from hub because of build up of dirt corrosion, the worn bearings had little grease (I added extra grease to replacement hub). It is recommended you also replace the hub nut when replacing mainly due to locking collar you punch down into slot once nut at torque.

Those bars will simply be to low for the vfr you can simply see that by placing that mounting plate over your existing vfr triple. Due to your new forks length you also wont have enough tube to mount clipons above triple clamp. You also wont get enough rise or adjustment with helibars when mounted under top triple, you have to use a clipon system like convertibars or the mx type bar conversion.

Due to the length of your forks you will have to mount the clipons bellow top triple like the convertibars in most cases, or do the top triple motocross type bar conversion. Just as a rule of thumb for you as have done many a conversion 6th gen, from bottom of frame were steering head bearing is too center of axle you want about 510mm of fork length.

NEVER under estimate the power of your passion, you may surprise yourself & everybody else, it is amazing what just cleaning/polishing/painting achieves, have fun with your build.

So this is the special project, now I will be very honest as we all like different things I'm not a fan of street fighters, cafe racers or naked bikes, my idea of a naked format is a MX or enduro that I can cover in mud in the bush. But what I like about this bike that appeals to me is 1. it's blue my fav colour. 2. the gen5/6 rear wheel I'm sick of everybody thinking the gen 3 rear wheel is the bee's knees, again my fav is the gen 5/6. 3. the CBR 08> tail it is again in my opinion the best looking stream line tail, it is a shame on the CBR the front is pig ugly. 4, attention to finishing everything with detail. Great work seb but were is the gun holder, some of your gun modifications are my fav mods you do outstanding :-)

There is noway in hell that shock bent like that in shipping, at a guess it has been mistreated or off a crashed bike.

I didn't read this thread before changing a 6th gen stator & fly wheel & kaldek on page two does show the special tool required to remove fly wheel. My Honda special tool is a standard 20mm metric fine bolt (metric fine is 1.5mm pitch thread). Screw bolt into flywheel place ratchet gun on bolt & flywheel comes off in a second. zero need to modify a puller or buy any special tool.

Well, I was curious too and phoned EBC's technical support in the UK. They have never heard of this, nor would they recommend doing it. If you still want to go ahead, because neglect caused matters to corrode, be careful not to over tighten the bolt and nut because you do not want to compress the bobbin to a point it may damage or crack. So this goes into the category "broodje aap" +1 this thread makes me cringe, a brake rotor is a life saving device & any failure can be life threatening yet people are willing to force tempered material straight when warped & use other means to free up locating bobbins. I hope those willing to do such things have the parts x-rayed before reuse, but then that would cost more than simply replacing the faulty parts. Please people replace faulty rotors with new ones your life is worth it.

PCV will work fine on any vtec, power commander don't list it for models under 09 because that was PCV release date. I have a PCV on my 04 (originally had PC3) you can even use the PC3 map which is compatible with the PCV. The maps however aren't backwards compatible you can't use a PCV map on a PC3. So in other words if you want to try the PC3 maps made for the 02-05 you can as they will load onto the PCV.

I have uploaded a map you can try from my 04 file name vfr800doin It is a PC3 map but can load to PCV as I now use a PCV, it was dyno map. I use Motad headers so close to same as catless 99 All my other mods are same except my mufflers are LEO

That is a very long list of parts for a garage ornament, even people that buy vintage machinery that zero spare parts can be bought & anything they need has to be fabricated from scratch complete there projects in under 12 years. If you spent 1/2 the time you spend on forums working on your project the other 1/2 of that time you could be riding lol

If you buy a 954 complete front & happy with the 3 spoke wheel then it is a simple bolt on job except for the bars. You will need to use bars that mount under the top triple due to length of forks there is no other way as there simply wont be enough fork length even through gull wing top 954 triple to safely mount above. You need to find what will work there are converibars for example or do a conversion like Veefer800Canuck posted. I use more or less same length forks CBR1000RR & no way with fork length to achieve decent front ride height can bars mount above top triple. I would also look into an F4i master cylinder which matches VFR & is correct size for 954 callipers.

The 60 profile will have same effect as when you raise forks through triple clamps to quicken the steering, the only way to know if your going to like them is try them. I don't feel you will like it if your rear tyre is a touring profile as the different profiles could counter the feel your after. I normally run the Metzeler M5 but at times fit a racetech K3 front which I really like it's just I wear them out a little quick but there a great feeling tyre for what you seem to be after a real turn in swooping feel. Also the Metzeler racetech only comes in a 120/70 front from memory, the M3 you can get 120/60.

You need to lift tank the wiring you want is between frame & throttle bodies & is with the big grey fuel injection plug. You have the wiring that runs outside of frame coming from R/R etc. ilim007 has posted pics above of fuel injection plug & red plug that is in that area.

Just my point of view because it's what I like but I run lower pressures than recommended because I like the feed back I receive doing so, it is just like suspension in a way. I'm not talking about very low pressures just a few psi lower than recommended, I can feel the tire working allot better. Instead of arguing the point people should just experiment themselves just drop 2psi cold pressure each time you ride & feel the difference so you personally have an understanding of the effects. So start at your base line just like you do with suspension & test the effects of lowering & increased tire pressure, it is the only way to find out the effects & maybe find a better combo than just the "I always put such & such pressure". There really is no need to argue the point if your not happy to experiment then don't, you tend to get the same logic with suspension, people don't try different settings so will never know if things can be better.

^^ sometimes common sense just falls on deaf ears, well said Mohawk. To many people are like sheep & need to follow, just because there is a spec sheet of recommended settings for everything doesn't mean there the be all & end all of settings. People modify there bikes differently, buy different model bikes, buy different tires, use different oil & the list goes on. The most important thing is to use tires & pressures that YOU the rider feel confident with, it doesn't matter if you can obtain the same grip wear with a harder compound tire or higher pressure than you like to run, the important thing is the rider has confidence in his/her set up. I run a softer compound on the VFR than I need 95% of the time & waste money having to replace my tires due to lower mileage, but I feel more at ease knowing I have lets say an extra level of tolerance if I do push the limits which would probably be less than 5% of the time.

Come on now it is debating tire pressures, for example do people watch racing or any form of motorsport as an example & see the tems adjusting tire pressures even if just 1-2psi. It doesn't matter if track/road you can experiment with tire pressures there is no hard & fast rule on what pressure you use, the recommended pressures that come on bike are just that recommended & there for the OEM tire spec. I'm sure everybody if they think about it can realise the amount of variables outside air temp, road surface temp, road surface friction, weight of bike & rider, tire construction, tire compound, etc we don't race for tenths so on the road you find a happy place for tire pressure that allows a performance we require. To answer an earlier post you gain more grip dropping pressure because it increases the tire contact patch on the road, more contact patch more grip but there are limits you just can't drop the pressure your tire will deform so much it can't maintain profile. Just for my example at present I'm running Metzeler M5 road cold pressure front 34-36psi (mainly 34), rear 36-38psi (mainly 36) track cold pressure front 30-32psi, rear 30-32psi (due to extra heat with larger contact patch & pushing tire harder the pressure increase when hot is larger on track which is also a reason to start with a lower pressure)

People get to caught up in the chicken strip saga, the fact is we all have different skills & so long as your having fun who cares. There are a number of factors to consider also & has little to do with suspension except for the fact as suspension moves it also effects the bikes geometry. On the road I use edge to edge of rear tyre but the front always has some chicken strip, if I use the VFR at the track the front chicken strips disappear mainly because the lean angle gradually increases due to the repetitiveness of doing the same corners over & over so you enter faster & faster. It is also due to you tend to trail brake allot heavier at the track & also your tyre pressures are lower so the contact patch is larger. My CBR1000RR when road riding also kept it's chicken strips front tyre unless I really engaged warp drive & then your talking about track day corner entry speeds & honestly on the road that's not smart riding as you should always allow a bigger margin for error.

I'll give you slack Seb because you have so many projects going on at once, Murray does have a VW Kombi now to restore but does need to finish his first project. I only rib him so much because I want to see the finished result as his build has some trick parts. I think those that tinker never really finish a project because you always find something to change but you need to finish version 1 first :-)