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I have replaced my hub assembly, I noticed movement when removing wheel for new tyre. A good check is when bike on center stand grab wheel & try to wiggle you can feel movement if bearings bad, just don't mistake the small amount of movement in shock linkages is the hub. I have a press so removed bearings from hub but due to reason tyre was being changed for trip away I was time limited to fix before trip & couldn't get replacement bearings in time. But lucky for me a mate had a new hub assembly for his 5th gen which is a different part number to the 6th gen but fits the same. There isn't much cost difference buying complete hub & buying the bearings, if you add the time etc to fit bearings the hub replacement is the way to go. It was an effort to remove hub from bike & axle from hub because of build up of dirt corrosion, the worn bearings had little grease (I added extra grease to replacement hub). It is recommended you also replace the hub nut when replacing mainly due to locking collar you punch down into slot once nut at torque.

Those bars will simply be to low for the vfr you can simply see that by placing that mounting plate over your existing vfr triple. Due to your new forks length you also wont have enough tube to mount clipons above triple clamp. You also wont get enough rise or adjustment with helibars when mounted under top triple, you have to use a clipon system like convertibars or the mx type bar conversion.

Due to the length of your forks you will have to mount the clipons bellow top triple like the convertibars in most cases, or do the top triple motocross type bar conversion. Just as a rule of thumb for you as have done many a conversion 6th gen, from bottom of frame were steering head bearing is too center of axle you want about 510mm of fork length.

NEVER under estimate the power of your passion, you may surprise yourself & everybody else, it is amazing what just cleaning/polishing/painting achieves, have fun with your build.

So this is the special project, now I will be very honest as we all like different things I'm not a fan of street fighters, cafe racers or naked bikes, my idea of a naked format is a MX or enduro that I can cover in mud in the bush. But what I like about this bike that appeals to me is 1. it's blue my fav colour. 2. the gen5/6 rear wheel I'm sick of everybody thinking the gen 3 rear wheel is the bee's knees, again my fav is the gen 5/6. 3. the CBR 08> tail it is again in my opinion the best looking stream line tail, it is a shame on the CBR the front is pig ugly. 4, attention to finishing everything with detail. Great work seb but were is the gun holder, some of your gun modifications are my fav mods you do outstanding :-)

There is noway in hell that shock bent like that in shipping, at a guess it has been mistreated or off a crashed bike.

I didn't read this thread before changing a 6th gen stator & fly wheel & kaldek on page two does show the special tool required to remove fly wheel. My Honda special tool is a standard 20mm metric fine bolt (metric fine is 1.5mm pitch thread). Screw bolt into flywheel place ratchet gun on bolt & flywheel comes off in a second. zero need to modify a puller or buy any special tool.

Well, I was curious too and phoned EBC's technical support in the UK. They have never heard of this, nor would they recommend doing it. If you still want to go ahead, because neglect caused matters to corrode, be careful not to over tighten the bolt and nut because you do not want to compress the bobbin to a point it may damage or crack. So this goes into the category "broodje aap" +1 this thread makes me cringe, a brake rotor is a life saving device & any failure can be life threatening yet people are willing to force tempered material straight when warped & use other means to free up locating bobbins. I hope those willing to do such things have the parts x-rayed before reuse, but then that would cost more than simply replacing the faulty parts. Please people replace faulty rotors with new ones your life is worth it.

PCV will work fine on any vtec, power commander don't list it for models under 09 because that was PCV release date. I have a PCV on my 04 (originally had PC3) you can even use the PC3 map which is compatible with the PCV. The maps however aren't backwards compatible you can't use a PCV map on a PC3. So in other words if you want to try the PC3 maps made for the 02-05 you can as they will load onto the PCV.

I have uploaded a map you can try from my 04 file name vfr800doin It is a PC3 map but can load to PCV as I now use a PCV, it was dyno map. I use Motad headers so close to same as catless 99 All my other mods are same except my mufflers are LEO

That is a very long list of parts for a garage ornament, even people that buy vintage machinery that zero spare parts can be bought & anything they need has to be fabricated from scratch complete there projects in under 12 years. If you spent 1/2 the time you spend on forums working on your project the other 1/2 of that time you could be riding lol

If you buy a 954 complete front & happy with the 3 spoke wheel then it is a simple bolt on job except for the bars. You will need to use bars that mount under the top triple due to length of forks there is no other way as there simply wont be enough fork length even through gull wing top 954 triple to safely mount above. You need to find what will work there are converibars for example or do a conversion like Veefer800Canuck posted. I use more or less same length forks CBR1000RR & no way with fork length to achieve decent front ride height can bars mount above top triple. I would also look into an F4i master cylinder which matches VFR & is correct size for 954 callipers.