Duc2V4

By sheer coincidence I was at a clients today and one of the engineers who knew I rode motorcycles thought I would be interested in this website that he was using to fabricate some parts he needed. http://www.emachineshop.com/ From what he was telling me, they provide the software and make it pretty easy to submit what you design. They have different materials you can get your parts made from, of course small quantities and "demo" pieces will cost more. He was also telling me that the parts he was having made cost $500-$600 for the prototype but was going to cost $22 each for 40 pieces.

Gotta book mark this one as it's another useful how-to! Thanks for posting

I went with the stock gearing and just ordered mine this past Wednesday but the sprockets turned out to be on back order! Found out today when I called to see why they haven't arrived yet.

I might give it a try later, but I'm having a hard time finding a good route from the UK to the US Just messing with you. Cheers!

Figured it was possible and it wouldn't be compromising the wheel but he wasn't comfortable with it and I really didn't want to do it unless he was committed. That being said, it looks like this guy used an axe to make those notches!

I think I found the deal breaker. The 8 spoke wheel has a smaller diameter spoke than the 5 spoke wheel. The spokes on the 8 spoke wheel do not terminate all the way to the edge of the hub like the 5 spokes do, so if you were to cut out the notches in order to clear the bolts, you would be doing so on the spoke itself so to speak (see bottom photo). It's possible that cutting at this location may not affect the integrity of the wheel, but neither of us wanted to take a chance on that. That being said, anyone need a 5 Gen wheel? Here's the 8 spoke as looking from the hub side. Here's the 5 spoke, same point of view. Here's the 8 spoke showing where the spoke terminates at the center of the hub Here's the same point of view for the 5 spoke.

Cool, I'll have him come over tomorrow then and worst case scenario, I'll have "trimmed" a wheel. Thanks Guys, Cheers!

You are talking about rim width not the section that mounts to the hub correct? It's been a while since I've seen the '95 up close, is that 1/2" going to be an issue? He already has a 180/55/17 tire mounted, prior to that, the "tire guy" made a mistake and mounted a 190 onto his stock rim and he did not notice that until we pointed it out to him.

I need a little help, I tried doing a search but the topic seemed to be a tough one to title as there are too many ways to say it 5th gen wheel, 6th gen wheel, 5Gen Wheel, 6Gen wheel, etc., you get the idea. Anyway, I was going to help one of fellow VFR owner out and sell him my 5 Gen rear wheel but he has a '95 VFR750, which if I recall has a different rear wheel hub, in which the sprocket/hub bolts are not flush with the side that the rim mounts to. Which means that the back of the 5 Gen wheel will need to be "grooved" where these bolts protrude from. I figure I can use my 8 spoke as a guide for location and depth but does anyone know for sure if the "grooves" are A) deep enough and B) in the correct location(s) and what would be the best tool to use to make these groves, the best that I have as far as grinding devices is a Dremel and a 1/2" drill motor and a few router bits. Thanks in advance, D

Has anyone tried these yet?

Just do your homework and be ready to shell out some $$. It's said "anything is possible, all you need is the time and money!" Good luck on whatever you decide. Cheers

Definitely a time and money investment, and if the OP is NOT mechanically inclined as he's stated, then add even more money to pay someone to do it. Either that or add a lot more time to get it all worked out! Either way, it's not going to be a cheap investment. If you're looking for a tricked out look and/or better handling with a tricked look, then these would be something to consider, but if you're just looking for a better front suspension than stock, then changing the valves/shims and springs would be a much easier and less expensive way to go IMHO. Cheers

Any help would be greatly appreciated. So I assume that the shock you purchased came with the preload adjuster? There have been a couple of shocks on eBay that appear that they *might* be the ABS shock but didn't have the preload adjuster attached to them and looking at the Honda part listings for the shock, you cannot buy the remote adjuster separately from the shock itself. Meh. :P I went by the salvage place today and sorry to say no ABS shock. I'll keep an eye out locally as well, hopefully one will pop up.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. So I assume that the shock you purchased came with the preload adjuster? There have been a couple of shocks on eBay that appear that they *might* be the ABS shock but didn't have the preload adjuster attached to them and looking at the Honda part listings for the shock, you cannot buy the remote adjuster separately from the shock itself. Meh. :P Yes, the shock has the remote preload adjuster attached. Kind of looks like a remote reservoir on some of the higher end shocks. The one I bought also had the mounting bracket for the knob, all I had to do was buy some bolts and tap the holes that are on the backside of the passenger peg brackets, as these are not threaded on the non-ABS models (at least mine were not). If I find anything at the salvage yard, I'll PM you.

I did and I found it on eBay and I had Jamie rebuild it for me. For some reason with VFR parts, I've been lucky, not so much on finding the right deal on parts for my '95 Duc though! The place that was auctioning the shock was a salvage yard who specialized in MC parts. You may see if there's a local salvage yard and check with them. There's one by my house that I can check with for you, but the last few times I checked with them for VFR parts they didn't have much.