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Terry

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Terry last won the day on March 7

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About Terry

  • Birthday 09/29/1964

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    Auckland, New Zealand
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    2017 Yamaha MT-10SP, 2019 Vespa Primavera 150, 1999 VFR800Fi

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  1. If the wax unit is not receiving coolant then it will keep the starter valves open more than you want when the rest of the engine is hot and give the excessive idle. Either an air lock or possibly the "cleaning" process has moved some crud in the small water hose and caused a blockage. My view is that a blockage is the most likely cause of a "wax unit failure" rather than any mechanical fault with the unit itself.
  2. Very thin, fuel-smelling oil and lots of it would indicate a leaking fuel injector. The tank is quite happy to gravity feed through the pump to the fuel rail, and if an injector is stuck open it can allow a quantity of fuel to drain into a cylinder, past the rings and into the crankcase. Good thing that you changed that out promptly, bad things can happen with so much fluid in the crankcase, and you likely have ejected some excess oil up to the airbox through the crankcase breather, which might explain a bit of smoke. Open the airbox up and take a look, a little oil mist is normal but not much in liquid form.
  3. I have done that myself on my 800; tried to install the pads while the calliper was mounted to the disc and managed to catch the edge of the pad spring during installation. Made for a weird brake as the spring would push the pad off the disc so there was lots of travel until the brake was pumped up fully. I would just straighten the pad spring out.
  4. Well the brakes are not going to be the cause. Ever seen a bike with single front disc? More likely a worn tyre, maybe misaligned forks or perhaps you aren't sitting straight on the bike.
  5. I also wondered what would happen if you used the non-VTEC buckets and valves in the VTEC positions so 16 valve operation is constant. It appears the cam lobes are the same on both VTEC and not VTEC valves. Probably not worth the effort.
  6. VTEC on the bikes activates 4 valves per cylinder at higher revs and 2 vavlves at lower revs. I think the earliest iteration had asplit forked rockers and a locking pin slid across to lock the two valves together. The VFR system stuck with the shim under bucket direct valve actuation of earlier models but the VTEC valves have special buckets that also use a locking pin activated by hydraulic pressure to connect to the valve stem. It sounds terrifying but clearly isn't as mechanically deadly as I would have thought.
  7. Well that takes the cake for a comprehensive answer Cogswell! Well done!
  8. I think you'll find there are some internal gearbox ratio differences between the 5th and the 6th. The crank is obviously different (gear vs chain sprocket for the cams) but AFAIK the bore and stroke are the same (so maybe rods and pistons?), and I assume the lower crankcase is too. I suspect the alternators are different. I know at least one person has swapped a 5th gen engine into the 6th frame so I presume the engne mounts are the same. So aside from the crank, upper case/cylinders, heads, gearbox, alternator...its all the same? Probably doesn't leave much.
  9. There's a balance involved between the starter valves, the idle stop screw and the wax unit nut. If you mess with one, you may mess up the other inadvertantly. Another member unwisely messed with the "unadjustable" starter valve screw (#4?) when synching the throttle bodies and closed those down more than they should be (but they were all nicely in balance 🙂). That resulted in the idle stop screw having to be wound in in much more than usual to get the warm idle correct to hold the starter valves open enough. And that resulted in the starter valve opening mechanism being held unnaturally open when the engine was cold to the point where the wax unit wasn't adding any cold opening to the SVs at all. Which means the cold start idle speed was unpleasantly low. If you can verify that the wax unit is changing it's length as the coolant temperature is changing but just not by enough to lift the SVs open when cold, then I would have a crack at changing the unadjustable nut, but at the very least mark the "factory" position before you start so if/when it all goes tits-up, you can return to the original setting.
  10. The oil leak is quite impressive but also looks to have been ongoing for a while so probably not major, just persistant. I would start looking at the oil filter in that area, the other spot would be the cam cover gaskets; these can fall out of place when being refitted, or the half-moons didn't get any sealant as they should, or the gasket might not be clamped enough to seal. Don't be tempted just to crank more torque onto the hold-down bolts for these, they thread into the head casting and that easily snaps. You might need to replace the rubber washers under the hold-down bolts as these compress with age and don't apply enough clamping force to the gasket. Another possibility in the same area is the gasket around the spark plug tunnel if that is not seated properly, oil can leak into the plug well and then out of drains under the heads. Not sure there is any other common oil leak point, but given you are in the UK with salted roads, corrosion on the oil cooler lines is something to consider.
  11. The spare wires look like the clutch switch wire, and I see that you don't have the original clutch master so that would be why. The clutch switch is usually needed if you want to start the bike in gear.
  12. I don't have the patience to read back very far. Is the eccentric adjuster for the rear wheel flipped over?
  13. Can you take the gauge faces that you have removed from the VM and scan them and send the scans to a label maker to print off in black/orange? There's also a number of suppliers of alternate gauge faces on the internet that might do the same work.
  14. I don't recall hearing of any issues with the CB750 Hornet that was recently released with the same motor. Maybe your "interesting" climate has had an effect on a stationary bike engine that has not seen any running? I was thinking that if you cooled the system down a lot that would pull extra coolant out of the reservoir, and then when "normal" temperatures were applied the coolant expands and pressurises the system but not with the engine running and the ceramic seal wetted up? I don't live anywhere that cold so this is pure speculation on my part.
  15. Did you also replace the back pads? I did this once and caught the pad on the pad spring; that pushes the pad back off the disk and makes for long travel even though it is well bled.
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