Skids

I don't own a Mk1 Crossrunner, mine's a Mk 2 but could you post a photo to highlight your issue? You can always blank out some digits if you are concerned. 

I haven't messed with anything yet, certainly not #1 or any other SV, which is why I'm suspecting the wax unit as the bike was fine last year. There not a spot of corrosion on her either so I'm struggling to see how any of the SV or wax unit could have corrosion.

Thanks guys, will take an in-depth look at this soon. 

Hi raYzerman, thanks for that.

When you say "back it off" for the wax unit, do you mean move the adjuster (yellow arrow) until it no longer has an effect when moved by hand?

No m8, but good spot. It's a scribe mark on the thread exaggerated by the angle of the light. 

Picture from parts catalogue, blue arrow pointing to yellow-arrowed adjuster in previous post.

Image from Honda SM. Can't find any reference to adjusting here either.

Finally have an hour or so to take a look at this. 

Drained the fuel tank, started the bike, idles around 2k rpm as it warms, temperature gets to about 70° C (158° F) and the idle shoots up quickly to around 3k rpm.

I backed the idle adjuster out until it no longer touches the plate that moves the SV assembly so that it is not affecting idle - blue arrow in photo

The screw/nut adjuster with the yellow arrow, which I think leads to the wax idle unit, can be pulled outwards a little  and that reduces the idle so I'm wondering if that is not adjusted correctly. I've looked through the Haynes manual and there is no reference to this adjuster (bronze coloured tube with green dot on it) but it definitely moves the whole SV assembly and thus affects the idle. When I had the bike apart, I didn't knowingly disturb this, I didn't remove the fuel rail assembly at all, just disconnected and removed the PAIR system.

Is there a procedure somewhere to adjust the yellow-arrowed nut to move the whole assembly without disturbing the wax idle unit? Or is this factory set and should not be moved, in which case why has the idle adjuster run out of movement and is therefore unable to reduce the idle speed?

Or am I barking up the wrong tree here?

Any help appreciated.

1 hour ago, rc24dk said:

With the exception of the traffic light it could be a fun place to visit if I go to England again. Especially as they are all in the wrong direction 😬 🤕

Ah Padawan, much to learn you still have. 😆

Seriously though, I fitted an LED high beam a few years ago but cannot find out where I got it. 

You should be able to Google it.

57 minutes ago, VetteJim said:

Hello and sorry if this has been covered but I searched and didn't find anything.  Does anyone have any experience or recommendations for an LED headlight bulb upgrade?  Mine is a 2010.

 

Thanks,

Jim

Where's the popcorn? 😆

Indeed. I called the police as it's a 60mph limit there and she has no protection, but that wasn't why I posted it, it was to show you the difference in number plates and much more easily they seem to stand out on a camera. 

My previous helmetcam was great for reading plates even in the dark.

I wonder whether it's the design of US plates with their lack of contrast that causes the issues.

Great.

And of course my fuel tank is full from over-winter storage 🙄

Hi. No, I've not had time yet and won't for a little while. There's no rush though, she won't be back on the road until April. 

Please let us know how you get on with your mates bike.

Very conventional 

It's ok guys, rant away, maybe some young rider will read it and make them think a bit more when they're out on the road.

I commute >100 miles per day, both bike and car and the idiocy and total lack of understanding or awareness that I see daily is frankly frightening. Indicators are rarely used, cars & vans are happy to pull out into my lane irrespective of closure speed, they hog the outside or 2nd/3rd lane (we can only overtake on the outside/right over here) and they're supposed to keep into the most LH lane when possible etc etc.

I have decided to buy the Viofo MT1 and managed to get a 5% discount from the UK importer (I shan't spend the savings all at once! 😏) and fit to my Crossrunner for my commute. May consider another for the VFR1200 if this one works out well.

18 minutes ago, Terry said:

As a suggestion, you may have a blockage in the thin water tubes that lead to/from the wax unit. This means the wax unit does not see the high water temps and so keeps the idle high even when the coolant is hot. Eventually heat soak from the engine should allow the idle to drop but it might take a while. If you’re lucky you maybe able to blow the blockage clear without major surgery. 
 

What, blow with my lips? 🤔

19 minutes ago, BusyLittleShop said:

General info...

 

Trouble shooting Chris's RC45 continuous high idle the culprit proved
to be air leaks... you see that on a fuel injection engine *any* air that
bleeds past the throttle bodies the map just increases the correct
amount of fuel... the result is high continuous idle... make sure all
the rubber hoses are connected and in good shape... make sure all the
intake boots are tight and in good flexible shape... if the rubbers
are hard and cracked its time for replacement...

 

I did check everything you say when I had the tank off after I bought her and everything was like new. None of the gubbins beneath the injectors has been removed or disconnected so an air leak is a difficult one to imagine. 

IF it is the wax idle unit, is it possible to just replace the inner bit (part 17) or do you have to buy the whole lot (17 & 18) and the washers?

2 hours ago, Presson said:

I confess I've no actual experience of the wax unit, but could a stuck wax unit piston cause the problem you describe by keeping the SVs wide open? From reading around it sounds as though the wax units normally last over 100k miles. 

Me either, it's all Honda magic to me. 

They should last but I wonder if the history of the bike with so much time doing nothing has led to an issue with it.

Good morning all.

My 01 has been sat in the garage since last Sep and I've just completed the annual oil & filter change. Started the bike up to let the oil warm up and pass through the filter so I could top it up accurately. Idle was around 2k rpm, which I guess is about right since it needs to warm up??? Then, as the temp gauge hit 70° C (158° F), the idle increases to a steady 3k rpm and wont reduce. 

Moving the bars makes no difference so the throttle cables are not snagging, I've tried to reduce the idle by turning the idle screw but that makes no difference, the throttle has the requisite slack on the cables so I'm thinking wax idle unit??? Before I purchased it, the bike spent the last 6 years not moving and over the previous 10 years only competed 400 miles.

I have yet to lift the tank to check the throttle cables, SVs and idle screw but before I do that, I thought I'd ask the knowledgeable folk on here for their thoughts.

When I last rode it, I had fitted new Iridium spark plugs, deleted the PAIR setup, balanced the SVs, new air filter and it was running beautifully. It's been stored in the garage over winter on a trickle charger with a full fuel tank topped up with fuel stabiliser.

Any thoughts welcome please.

Other than an interesting colour scheme 🤢 I can't see anything to suggest it's a special. 

Shame you didn't get the Crossrunner instead but we'll let you off. 

Please post some pics when you finally get her. 

6 hours ago, toreckman said:

To remove the cat & sensors etc and mine are pretty crusty.

 

How long have you had the gpr?

Ah ok. It is only surface crud as they are SS and should polish up. You can fit O2 eliminators and I cut the cat out on my old 98 when I fitted a set of 01 downpipes to it many years ago. However, I do get what yr trying you do so please let us know how you get on with it.

I fitted the GPR about a year ago. My 01 is an April - September bike. I bought her very low mileage (<9k) and spent a few £ sparkling her up and now she's a keeper. Story here.

Can't answer most but why swap downpipes? 01 downpipes are SS.

I have a single GPR which is excellent. Looks and sounds good and easily fitted.