ShipFixer

37 minutes ago, SABen said:

Both work fine on their own as far as I can see. When either one of the two are of they give a clean switch to ON, but somehow they need to both be off before the engine stops, So I'm not sure the issue is in the switches, but will check them as well

 

Mine appeared to be good.  The switches are essentially open mechanisms looking up, so all sorts of things will have fallen and washed into them over 22 years. 

The other way to check this is at the starter harness plug for continuity.  You don't need to remove the fairing, it's by the battery under the saddle.  A voltmeter will tell you if the circuit is truly open when either of the switches is open, and closed when they are both closed.

Both my kill switch and ignition key switch were dirty.  I had intermittent connectivity through them which caused some random and inopportune shutdowns.  It's possible that you could have something else causing continuity in there.

Not hard to disassemble and clean the kill switch and clean it up, and fix whatever is going on in there.  Ignition key switch is a little bit tricky to get to, but can be done with universal joints and some extensions.

12 hours ago, fabio222 said:

Man that RWB paint scheme is the bomb.

 

Nice job on the brackets. When I have my VTEC out on the road I usually just use one pannier. I'd considered getting some Delkevic cans for it so thanks for the info on clearance with the pannier mount!

The round Delkevics that come with the VFR package will clear the bag mounts without modification.  Looks like the OP bought a couple of their different short cans to go with the middle Y junction pipe from Delkevic...which is pretty cool.

Hi ShipFixer,

Thank you for your donation of 100.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

I resprayed the parts I couldn't buy NOS with color matched paint from Color Rite, which did not exist back in the day.  Perfect match for R157, yellow should be a lot easier.  

My spray can results with lacquer clear coat were and still are excellent, anything beyond that should look and feel perfect.  It's on my list of things to do to re-do with 2K clear coat from a small spray gun now that I have the space, but haven't had to almost four years later.

Gtechnic ceramic everything plus their EXO hydrophobic layer FTW after orbital polishing.  Nothing short of a rock chip messes with my paint.  The ceramic glass sealant is terrific.

Cerakote headlight kits and plastic trim coats (wipes) are the business.  I got a 50 pack of the latter and it was worth it.

The Color Rite stuff matches very, very well.  I sprayed a front fender and other panels I couldnt get new parts for in 2020 and they are still dead on for the NOS parts on the bike.

At 22 years old, my wax unit "sort of" works and it is most likely a coolant blockage thing.  But I live in San Diego 😄

I have a pile of new hoses and a new wax unit in a box next to my bike.  Eventually will get around to it.

Lots of examples on the forum where people have made different solutions.  Stainless steel flex hose using the original fittings, or retapping the sump and cooler for standard fittings seems popular.

I ordered new OEM lines from Honda last year and just waited for them to come in.  They are still out there, or were last year.  

Is this a leverage ratio thing or a ride height thing?

You may be able to just get a new side fairing in that color from Partzilla or a used one from eBay, dont forget that.

I was able to get almost all new plastic for my 2002 in 2020.  A lot of those parts in R157 red are no longer available NOS in 2023 though.  Worth checking for matte black.

Repair and repaint with colors from Colorite is also a good option.  I did this for pieces I could not replace.

Oh no.  He's the only VFRD member I've seen in the last few years.  He helped me a lot with my headers of course.  Texted about surfing but never did it before he moved.  This is awful to hear.

I get this on items I just look at a few times occasionally.  It sometimes tips me over the edge and I buy it.

Did yours come with the wax unit lines, if your bike has that?  Gotta do hoses on mine some time in the near future.

5 hours ago, MBrane said:

Read that again. It's the subframe that gets hot enough to burn your hand. I don't want that heat soaking into the R/R.

 

I know the fan is probably overkill, but I had it laying around so why not? It can't hurt.

I'd believe its getting hot because of the original RR.  If your subframe is that hot due to some heat source other than the RR you've got other problems... 😁

I never took any kind of temps on mine, but my bike *always* smelled like hot electrical wiring when running or after shut down.  Going to MOSFET fixed that. You should not need additional cooling.

7 hours ago, SEBSPEED said:

I blew a fork seal a couple weeks ago, likely from having too much fun with the boost... I replaced that, added a Tyga carbon fender, and swapped out the old spiderwebbed 06 windscreen for a chinese double bubble. I haven't liked bubble screens in the past, but this one is low enough it doesn't cause my head to bobble like the others I've tried. I think it looks good with the lcd film swap too. 

 

 

 

Where is this one from?  The original double bubble points the air stream directly at my helmet as well.  I have to go original profile (ZG SR right now) or one of those silly tall things, nothing in between.

If it comes to it - 6th gen stator and 6th gen flywheel, from a 2003+ bike will work on your 5th gen.  Get the flywheel on eBay for $50, it's not like they age out :lol:

Don't get a 2002 flywheel and you're fine.

On 6/16/2023 at 11:24 PM, Ziffer said:

Hey now, I have a Black Widow can on my bike. Is it the BEST quality can? No. But it looks good and sounds good.

I think you guys talking apples and oranges.  The FB groups are mostly looking at the BW and Delkevic headers, which are a different design and suboptimal.  The VFRD ones are way better.  For mufflers, I have no idea about Black Widow but the Delkevics are as good as anything else out there, from upsweep to exhaust tip.  In every way that matters (design and construction quality)...pretty much the same.  

But some people like space alien blaster looking exhausts or something...

9 hours ago, SEBSPEED said:

 

Ahem... lol 

 

Only cause I stepped out for ten years *cough cough* 🤪

When I repurchased my VFR, I was happy to see VFRD still around.  I have figured out who some of you are on the FB Groups but its not the same as a discussion board, with the same five questions every day in series.  Will be missed...would not have resurrected my VFR to anywhere close to what it is now without this place.

My tapered roller head bearings are great, 15 or so years later!

I have an RC51 fan (blades) standing by but haven't gotten to it yet.  Anecdotally, from here and elsewhere, fan failure or fan signal failure is pretty low on the list of common problems.  The cooling system on my bike is one of the last untouched things and it has worked fine in hot desert rides, stop and go traffic on the DC beltway near you, etc.  It does get hot but then the fan brings it down.  

Would not consider a switch or fan blade mod to be up there with must-do things, like the R/R upgrade and stator recall.  If you are going to pull things apart enough to get to the fan, and you're doing stuff like clutch covers, etc...might as well do it.  But not a show stopper.  

I'd be in.  Turns out the rubber caps I zip tied on way back when will dry rot and crack after a while.  Might as well get something nicer right?

...or skip getting a tune with real time closed loop control in a Rapid Bike instead... 😜