Cogswell

Not on a 5th gen - but on my G6 I had the same issue with the midpipe - a small crack began to appear just as it got sized enough to fit over the header. It was right at the clamp location - there are two bungs, one threaded, that draws the pipe down tight. I had a good tech doing it, just barely touching the control on the machine as it expanded - we test fit it a number of times. The split is small, has not propagated any further since and has been fine. It was at the very limit - if the header were any larger it would have needed surgery to adapt it. One thing for sure - there's no going back to the stock header now with that midpipe.

If you install an 847, I'll be very interested in learning what your experience is with it, particularly at idle with the fan running.

The 5th gen FSM can be downloaded from the Downloads section - should have all needed to decipher codes.

That's impressive - I don't drive my car many more miles per year than that.

I ride like Grum - definitely not the fastest, but enough so that I want a tire I'm confident in. My last Road 2's came off at just over 8,000 miles. Had I been 1,000 miles from home, I'm very confident they would have made it - maybe even further, to around 10,000 total miles before they were truly shot - showing cords, etc. I'm too chicken to take it that far for a lousy couple of hundred bucks, so I change 'em before they're totally done. I have a set of Pilot Powers (didn't know they could still be had) on a 2nd set of wheels, but have never ridden them to exhaustion so don't know how far they'd go. I don't see Angel GT's in the original poll, likely they were not out then. They might be on the list if it were taken again. I've thought about trying those when I can no longer get the Road 2's.

The original poll gets a lot of votes for PR2's. They are still available on Amazon. The 120/180 set is $220 at your door. I bought a set spring '21 - the date codes were around Oct, '20, so for me acceptable. Made in Spain. There are a few buyers that report old date codes - I guess that's the roll of the dice anytime buying tires on line. At any rate - that is a smokin' deal on those. I hope they're still around when I need them again!

Yeah, not saying Chinese plastic is the best (obviously not), was thinking more along the lines of having the desired color and the OEM plastic on hand to go back to if it ever gets rashed or just tired. I'm not so sure about money ahead. Buyers usually value stock and when they see a Y2K with red bodywork they'll wonder what's up with it (at least I would). Why did someone do that, are they trying to hide something, what's the history of the bike, etc. Like finding out what a house is worth, the best way to find out is to move forward with it.

If you went with Chinese bodywork in yellow and got a tank sprayed to match, you could have the best of both - a yellow '98. And, you would have zero trouble selling your fairings - they'd be gone in 60 seconds. My 6G wax unit has failed - I'd swap over a 98/99 lever housing and cable if it were more practical (it would take a lot of fiddling / fabbing to get it done), so I'm not fan of that. There are varying opinions on the brakes - personally I like 'em, probably saved my ass a time or two, but I do understand personal opinions about them may differ from mine. Either way, if you want OEM and plug and play yellow bike, then buying a 2000 is probably the easiest way to go.

Here's a shot of the MTB installation instructions. Note that it says to retain the stock O2s and cautions that it may not work correctly without them. It seems to imply that the Racing module needs that input regardless of whether a MTB is installed or not. Seems like they could develop a Racing module that could read a wideband sensor directly.

The main advantage of RB over PC is that RB can adjust fueling on the fly to maintain the target AFR whereas PC cannot (even with Autotune). The latter requires trial and error to create what is still a fixed map. OTOH RB software is not as user friendly - the documentation is translated from Italian. I'm in no way bashing it, but it is a steeper learning curve vs PC. If you're running it on a G6, IMHO the cable for the wideband O2 sensor is too short. I bought a 3 foot extension cable and it's been fine. Also, you'll be keeping your 2 stock O2 sensors (I have no idea why), so on a G6 you'll have a total of 3. IMO the RB tune without the MTB was better, the target AFR in the MTB map I think it's a bit lean. Over the winter I need to learn how to create multiple maps and adjust AFR targets to get it just right.

Not here. Actually if they were not cut off at all I'd probably be fine with it. It's easier to remove material than to add more. FWIW I have Remus cans and midpipe. Each brand / type is probably somewhat different. I'd thought about moving these to my G5 once the 8th headers go on to accommodate other mods, but it's not clear to me that they'll fit up to the G5 midpipe / can having been cut. Who knows - maybe I'll be in for a G5 set if another batch is run.

Read the thread - self explanatory.

I doubt swapping for 98/99 headers is going to make any noticeable performance difference, tho it may alter the sound some presuming you have an aftermarket can on it. The cat has multiple times the diameter of the tubes so can get exhaust gases through sufficiently to not quash power. The VFRD headers are larger diameter than stock, so that is more impactful. I thought losing the cat would help keep the heat down, but that wasn't particularly obvious. Also keep in mind that your headers are stainless while the early 5th gen headers are mild steel and can corrode significantly. Someone who's actually run other brands of headers will have to comment on that - I'm no help on there. If you want to keep up with your buddies, you're better off getting the suspension done, taking some track time under instruction and if you need to, shed some weight from your own carcass. I've lost some significant weight in the past year and have noticed that the 'ol girl seems to have more giddyup than before.

I use 3 of these on my 6th gen. https://drainplugmagnets.com/misc_products/oil-filter-magnets/

Don't know about the FPR question - but those are very low numbers. You should be getting close to ShipFixer's numbers. Easy places to start looking are air filter, vacuum leaks, and if you have a temp gun, check to see that the headers near the heads are all equal temperatures. Coolant should be in the 180 degree range +/-. If too low you may have a cylinder not firing. Check the plugs - they should all be a light tan and all the same and if not check the leads from the coils to plugs per the FSM. Also, do you have a tuning module installed? If so, you might disconnect it and see what you get. Early 5th gens rarely benefit from those - they run quite well as stock and really don't need any tuning modifications. There are more diagnostics in the manual but those are easy / no cost things you can check to get started.

Because size matters . . . !

Yes

Now that some miles are racking up on the headers they are mellowing in color. I thought that would be pricipally near the heads, but it seems to be the entire length, just not as pronounced as at the heads. Not a big deal - just a bit more than I expected.

It looked like the last batch pretty much satisfied the demand out there. But, you never know. I'm finally racking up some miles on mine. I was hoping that the cat gone missing might allow more heat to exit vs build up in the headers, but the jury is out on that. They seem to improve the midrange response around 7,000 rpm and they definitely sound better! This afternoon I pulled in to a station to fill up. There were two quad cab 4x4s with flatbed trailers that had quads, gas cans, all sorts of powersports gear and two couples each from the two pickups. I finished my business, mounted up and thumbed the starter. As I idled away from the pump all 8 heads turned in unison and one of the women said "what is THAT"?? I was laughing inside my helmet. Well 'ol girl, you may be 13 years old now, but you've still got "it" and your V-4 is still something special. Those VFRD headers put a double underscore on that.

I hate to say this, but for clarification FWIW that may be true but AFAIK is not verified . . . the photo is a comparison of the VFRD tube to the 6th gen OEM header. If a B.W. is the same diameter then it would be true however that is not what's in the photo. To be fair the description was somewhat ambiguous in the original post. The pic was originally was posted April 20 last year on page 29 of the thread, below. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/88463-new-5th6th8th-gen-performance-header-now-in-production-in-usa/page/29/&tab=comments#comment-1107058

Post up pics along the way if you can.

I've seen the price difference between Costco and neighboring stations as high as $.70 per gallon, though here it averages between $.25 and $.50 depending upon how rapidly prices are changing. What I save on gas alone more than pays for the membership. I also like that their pumps are always in good condition and can meter out fuel slowly so I can get it filled to the top without spilling. IIRC New Jersey is the only other state besides Oregon that does not allow one to pump their own gas. In OR bikes are allowed to IF the attendant hands you the hose. Beyond the pale stupid - yes. COST is good about it though - they just let bikers go about their business and leave you alone. If you're in your car apparently you are suddenly too stupid to do it yourself . . . I didn't realize that our lawmakers are so smart.

As above, joined the new tire club today. Got Road 2's (love these tires) from a vendor on Amazon. The ones coming off had 7,933 miles on them. They would have gone longer, but a long trip is upcoming and I wanted new rubber. I taught myself to DIY my tire changes, so that makes it go down easier. Plus I don't have to wait for a shop and make multiple trips to drop off / pick up. Filling up at Costco the day prior. For those of you that have not been to a Costco previously - some have enormous capacity - this one can fill 24 cars at a time - 8 lanes each 3 deep. This was in the a.m. so it was still slow. I asked once when an 18 wheel truck was there filling the underground tanks how many of those they get per week - maybe one every few days? The reply floored me - they told me that they get 3 or 4 delivery trucks every day! Installing the front. If you have the right tools, this is not a bad job at all. I've done around 15 sets now for both myself and friends. The block of wood was to keep the tire lever from resting on the rotor. Just after this photo was shot the lever came around the steel bar clockwise to finish it off - it was complete in under a minute. Note the lube on the tire bead - it would be nearly impossible without it. Levering the tire off is just as easy - just use the opposite end of the bar with the removal bit on it. The hardest part for me might be breaking the bead. I have a home-made setup using a 2x4 and some other wood pieces. It works, but it's by no means elegant - but it gets 'er done. Note the car rim underneath - kind of hard to see (there is heater hose around the perimeter so no wheel scratches) to keep the rotor from touching anything. I have not switched to metal stems - probably should - so I change the stems with every set of tires. Just like the tires - they break down with time. Link to the tire lever - I consider it a good investment - very happy with it. (Looks like the price has gone up since I bought mine). https://www.mojotiretools.com/mojoweb.htm Comparison of the rear tire old / new. Not bad at all for that mileage. Note the arrows (added) showing the edge of the harder, center compound. That concept really works. I was very happy with the way these hold up. Baby's got new shoes . . . While I was at it, I have some Colorite paint in the OEM color for the wheels. The rear was showing some chips from use and the front had a scratch, so I sanded and re-shot and cleared them before installing the new tires. The photos don't show it, but it just freshened things up nicely. I'd guess I have around $225 total in the tire lever, Marc Parnes balancer, the car wheel ($5), and miscellaneous items like valve stem tool, a selection of weights and other things. That was probably paid for after the 2nd set of tires. These tires were $220 shipped, so that's my total cost going down the road.