reaper7767

If so, how do they sell HArley's with the 3 headlight setup(THE most visible bike system btw...) The two side lamps on the harleys are called, fog lights so they can get away with it, but I have a car that does run with the lows and highs on at the same time when I turn on the highs, it just depends on the country and there laws

+1 on this kit for quality. This is from a VFRD member. http://www.vfrdiscus...conversion-kit/ With that said, just want to also point out that simply swapping in the HID bulb is not legal. Neither is going over the speed limit... If you simply install a regular 8000K halogen bulb and do a side by side comparison with a regular halogen bulb, both of same wattage, and aim it at a garage door from 20 feet away, you'll observe the regular halogen bulb puts out a well defined cut-off pattern. The 8000K bulb on the other hand would not have that same well defined cut-off pattern. You'll find light bleeding into the area above the cut-off pattern. This is due to light scatter at the higher color temperatures. Now if you switch those bulbs to HIDs of same color temps, the same effect is amplified due to the higher lumens (brightness) output. This means you will not only be throwing glare into oncoming traffic, but also with greater intensity. More info on cause and effect of glare: http://www.ncbi.nlm....les/PMC1771460/ Conclusion, if you have the $$ and want to do it right, do a "retrofit". In fact, put together a kit and a step by step You Tube vid, and share/sell it here. it is a federal law that you CAN NOT use plug-&-play kits anymore since 2010 (using a HID light in a reflector housing) FMVSS 108, retro fits on the other had are in a "grey" area at the moment. the only exceptions that ive found are like the 2008 Subaru STI's and a VERY few others like it, were they use HID's in a reflector housing from the OEM

reason that i i did go with a thinner rim is because like ive said before the only other rim manufacturer that makes that thin of rims is Work, and they cost 500+ per rim (and atm i can not do that) soo i had to go w/ a 17x7 and not a 17x5 (17x6/ 6.5 they dont make them for aftermarket cars, only trucks and stock car rims). yes i did make a mistake by going with a 190 on my rim BUT pirelli doesnt make a 200+ in the angel st and i thought i could get away with it (unless you want to buy the tire off me then STFU), my next tire will be a 210/220 to make it look better on the bead this mod is mostly for aesthetics, there is no performance gain for this mod EXCEPT if you get a lighter rim (which there are but not one that i liked), handling wise it does help with in town traffic (low speed maneuvers) which i do most of the time, and economy: not really unless you go with the light rim

thanks Kel for comparing me to a squid .... o wait why don't you nominate yourself and every other motorcycle rider while your at it

the tire is seated, its just too skinny, aka putting a 150 on the stock rim. Did I miss something? These all appear to be 5 lug wheels. work does make those in a 4x100 lug, BUT the reason that nobody have fitted these yet is they cost $550+ per rim where as the rims that we have been using are $100-$160. plus you would still need a spacer for the work rims too cause the closes offset is 26mm where as the stock vfr rim is 19mm and you would still have the same issue with mounting the tire cause its a car rim and not a motorcycle rim work vs other vs stock cost 550 vs 150 (avg) vs 0 offset(mm) 26-32 vs 40-46 vs 19 spacer(mm) 7-13 vs 21-27 vs 0 rim width 5.5 vs 7 vs 5.5 lug all 4x100 like other ppl have said its NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE to find a 17x5.5 car rim (very limited on what you can get) and if you do (like the work rims) you'll be putting out 500-600 for one rim (which ppl really cringe at) where as if you get a 17x7 rim you have a MASS variety on what you can get, and get what style you want too it's truly an insane bodge. As a long time and die hard VFR lover it's pretty hard to look at. it may be seated on the rim but the tire bead is completely incomparable with the rim. This bike would be far safer running a square car tire, and that would solve your center stand issue. The current tire sidewall is stretched to within millimeter of it's life, it's virtually parallel with the rim. The tire tread is actually starting to get a reverse curve to it at the edge. This configuration can not possibly be roadworthy or road legal the reason that mounting a motorcycle tire on a car rim is hard is because the motorcycle rims are a true 17" where as car rims are 17 1/16"- 17 1/8" as for the seating of the bead, that also differs too, car rims are mostly seated/ sealed from the outside of the bead (thats why you hear of tires de-beading themself at high spped turns) where as motorcycle tires seal from bottom of the bead, if you look at a car tire/ rim vs a motorcycle tire/ rim there 2 different designs but there close enuff that you and inter change them like a goldwing/ cruiser using a car tire on a motorcycle rim or vice versa w/ SSSA bikes using car rims w/ motorcycle tires

here are some more pics. after putting on the tire and running it for a day ive found some good and bad things from my experience. Good: looks really nice on the bike, speedo runs a little faster (cause i put on a 190/55), turns sharper cause of the tire, and better front end feel Bad: cant get the rear tire in the air on the center stand (going to get a pit bull stand, was thinking about getting one anyway), rubbing on the center stand when its up (can see from the pic), shorter bearing life (cause of the add rim weigh and offset) then there are some things that im planning on do: do an under tail exhaust like the cbr 600 (or if anyone on the forums can make a high mount pipe for an erion exhaust ill buy it) take about 3-4mm off the spacer for the wheel maybe put a 200 or 210/50 or 45 on next cause of how the tire is sitting on the rim

got the tire beaded i did 4:1 dish soap mix, took the tire off, lathered the rim and tire up (kinda hard getting the tire back on w/ the soap ) when it hit 30 psi it was starting to fold back in, at about 70-75 BANG top bead seated and scared the shit out of me, few sec later a second bang and done. about a block away from my house i almost low sided because i forgot to remove the tag

how high would you go, cause my tanks can only go to 100 psi

hey dragon your not the only one thats fail now, i tried mounting mine on a Konig lace (17x7) and it wont seat. im going to try a few more shops before i i give up.

#1 & 2 are pretty much to keep the links from rusting, but if just do #3 and wipe the extra off it'll be plenty

one thing that ive been wondering is how do you balance it? would you balance it like a car tire or like a motorcycle tire, cause there two different methods and use different types of weights too. other thing that ive been wondering is will a 40 offset rim work too? im thinking thats going to be seriously close because with a 42 off it was 3-4.5mm away from the swigarm

try a ***/55/17 tire, the 45 is way too small even for the stock rim

Using a steel brush on an oring chain is bad, just hose it with wd40 the take a rag and run through your fingers , It needs no more cleaning than that. it looks like plastic brushes, not steel... so it would be fine for the o,x,or z-rings (just as long as you go in the right direction). but it add to the pics... it looks like the chain needs a bath too from all the gunk that was on it