Rush2112

The 5th Gen has different cams for California and other states. I'm trying to determine if the 5th gen engine in Massachusetts has the Cams from California as well.

http://www.ronayers.com/CAMSHAFT-C208009.aspx

On the parts fische there is one cam for each 49 state and California. I'm trying to determine which cam is for which.

Honda only states Cali or 49 states for the early 5th gens... not 41 states. Those states may have jumped on the Cali bandwagon but I do not believe they did it before Y2K...

There is a difference in the engine serial number for the Cali engines, the other engines have the 49 state cams... I'm traveling so I don't have my book to elaborate with specific details; hopefully, someone can provide the details.

PS: The throttle body ID #'s are different and will tell you if it a Cali engine too...

Does the VIN of the bike it came off start with JH2RC460 or JH2RC461?

Wow... great opening post!!!

Welcome... I can't wait to hear more!

Really?!? When I looked a couple of years ago Dynojet didn't have the PC2 software available... I stand corrected.

Software isn't available from the vendor? That's not a good sign.

+1

Just might mean it is an obsolete model that hasn't neen sold in 10 yrs....

Software isn't available from the vendor? That's not a good sign.

When you ram air a carb bike you have to balance the pressure in the carb throat and the float bowls or the increased air pressure pushes the fuel backwards and causes chaos... like Beck stated.. not hard to compensate but hard to fine tune for different speeds... it is easier to ram air a fuel injected bike
@vioded... I'm hoping to cut some NACA ducts into my track bike top fairing like an RC45 wih a remodeled fuel tank for the air ducts

there you go 99 and 00 are the one you want confirmed. I think thats a mistake in the manual it should be After 00 (01-03) as 50psi. I would go with a 99 just to be safe.

16740-MAT-E02 replaces 16740-MAT-E01.

16740-MAT-E22 is the 50psi 01+ fpr

So the 99 BB is 43psi... that's a couple pounds more than I wanted for the 800... might work on the track bike though...

Do you know if they change something, maybe injectors on the later models?

It should state the correct fuel pressure in the Blackbird Factory Service Manual.

Anybody have a Blackbird manual that can check?

Fuel injector orifices may be giving an uneven spray pattern after sitting for so long without a lot of miles.... some of these mods may be making the mixture leaner at idle causing the surging

My 2002 VFR suffered from the usual VFR problems of snatchy throttle off idle to 5000 rpm and the the incredibly annoying lean stumble at 4500 rpm. The solution, swap out the stock 36psi fuel pressure regulator with a 42psi regulator from a 2000 Honda Blackbird. It's an easy swap, less than two hours, just remove the air box to gain access. The bike is now a joy to ride below 5000 rpm. Totally transformed.

I ordered the regulator though Bikebandits.com (591149 part #).

Welcome to the forum and starting out with a share right off the bat!!! Alright! Thanks for the info...

where did the 42 psi value for the BB come from, is this confirmed? That is almost right where I calculated I want to be... just slightly more.

Beautiful Bike!

Thanks for sharing the journey... sorry to hear you're letting her go :(

Wish I'd had known The Dude was making these... I just bought a pair of Kyle Racing block off plates a couple of months ago

Yup that's what my research shows too. I know 46mm is way too large to run with out smaller velocity stacks, unless you are running the hrc race kit cams, pistons etc. but I would like to have mine bored out to about 40mm.

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This may be a silly question, you being an engineer wannabee soontabee... is there enough metal in the throttle bodies to remove 2 mm from the walls without compromising integrity? Do you have 40mm Honda parts bin throttle plates lined up? If so, please share the model

What size are the throttle bodies on an RC45?

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All that is mentioned is a 2 liter Nisson. I am interested as well. Been using my same K N filter for ever. Like the idea of a disposable filter. Honda charges around what $45 for their throw away? Last time I checked I don't like cleaning and oiling filters. Too many dirt bikes in my garage I guess.

So the frame is from ? And the paper filter is from ? Inquiring cheapskates want to know.

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Do you have an idea of what you're expecting to get out of the port and cam work, hp-wise? I might have missed that in one of the previous 14 pages!

Don't know what the OP is expecting, but I'm up to 107rwhp with a revised inlet/ramair, mild cam job based on RC45 timing & a freer flowing exhaust system with custom dyno fuelling. I just fitted some shorter velocity stacks & have a couple of other ideas in progress, hopefully we can push that number higher, but might take a while to complete, as winter is coming :(

My goal in this project was not to necessarily to reach a target HP number, but rather to see what the results would be IF. The start of the project came out of the Torocharger project as I wanted to investigate what a bit of refining could do to our engines. The engine would essentially still be in its original skin and within OEM designed forces.

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Thanks Coderighter... I missed this the first time around. Looking forward to applying the learnings to my 5th gen project.

Did you get your fi map sorted on the top end? Are you using the Turbo City FPR?

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White.

Blue behind the LCD.

You could try red, since the needles are red. The red plastic filters out all the colors except red if you are using incandescent bulbs. By using blue LEDs there is no red to come through. That's my understanding of it anyway. That's why you should use red LEDs for red lenses, amber for amber, etc.

+1

LEDs have very narrow wavelengths of emitted light. Even the white LEDs don't have a lot of red in them so you should use the red LEDs through red lens otherwise they will be dimmer. White LEDs are a mixture of a few wavelengths that the eyes perceive as white but they don't cover the full spectrum. There's more available red light to reflect off a red needle using a red LED so it should stand out more... at least the physics makes sense...

Amber LED on a red needle might make the needle look black because there is little or no red wavelength to be reflected... kinda like how tropical fish lose there color the deeper you go and the other wavelengths of light are filtered out by the water... shine a light on them with the right wavelengths and the colors pop

Quote from TheLEDLight.com, "...using colored LEDs to illuminate similarly colored lenses produces better visibility and overall appearance."

I have all the parts/pieces to install the coils, And I am back from my deployment. I just need to know which prong on the coil is the ground, and which is the hot wire, as I want to get the wiring right for the new harness that I am making. From what I have seen so far, it appears that the right prong on the coil is the ground wire, can anyone confirm this? I have the 2 prong coils btw. Thanks!

I believe it is the right but I can't confirm right now... I'm 1000 miles from home in a hotel and I can't make out in my pics if the colored wire is left and black ground is right... also, I'm not an electrical expert, but I'm not sure it matters on the 2 connector coils.

Found a picture of the CBR 1000 coil wire harness on eBay and the black w/ white stripe (ground) is on the right if the plastic clip is up, so the right prong on the COP should be the ground

If you don't mind me asking... How much did the Brembo clutch m/c assembly set you back?

Thanks for the feedback on the Factory Pro Shift Star... I've been curious about that one and have considered it myself. Currently, I'm working on BLS's advice to improve my shifting technique first!

Glad it is working well for you!

If you're like me you'll love the SS brake lines... I went with Speigler and they made a world of difference in the brake feel and power. I can brake with one or two fingers now.

The MotoGP boys have ceramic bearing in the tranny ?

Don't know... but they do have ceramic bearing transmission kits for CBR600 & CBR1000

Total waste of time unless you are racing, they do NOT do anything useful & are of NO benefit to a normal road machine.

If they don't do anything useful then why use them for racing?

Color me still skeptical about a 3-5 hp gain with wheel bearing change. But that's just me.

I would be less skeptical about the friction coated ceramics. Not all bearings are created equal. It is a bit hard to imagine that the rotating mass in a bearing is at all significant compared to the rest of the wheel, but friction is friction. Maybe 5HP from switching out the transmission bearings is more likely and not the wheel bearings.

In the post I thought they said they gained 12hp from changing the transmission bearing and applying the internal Microblue coatings.

Although the rotating mass is reduced, I don't think that is where the friction reduction comes from......according to the Oak Ridge National Laboratory:

"Silicon nitride ball bearings are harder than metal which reduces contact with the bearing track. This results in 80% less friction, 3 to 10 times longer lifetime, 80% higher speed, 60% less weight, the ability to operate with lubrication starvation, higher corrosion resistance and higher operation temperature, as compared to traditional metal bearings."

I think many of us are looking at wheel friction when we lift a wheel off the ground and spin it... at these times there is very little load on the bearing and most likely the majority of friction is the seal. Put the wheel on the ground, under a couple of hundred pound load, at 120+ mph and there is significant amount of drag from friction in the bearings... we can reduce that by some amount, possibly up to 80%, with a performance ceramic bearing. This has been researched by people way smarter than me and applied by racing teams throughout motorsports with positive results. It's not as sexy as pumping up the engine... but it makes more power available to move the bike forward faster.

Couple forums say this the guy for ceramic :

http://www.worldwidebearings.com/index.htm

... less friction = less wasted power. With wheels spinning at >2000 rpm that heat and friction adds up... apparently this guy dyno'd it and got the results to prove it

yeah rear wheel only because the front wheel is clamp in ..

You can't dyno a front wheel of course, but are you saying there are no friction loses there when riding at speed? Is it far fetched to extrapolate and infer that there is lost power in the front wheel due to bearing friction?

Worldwide Bearings web site just has contact info, no ability to search, price, or shop online