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Rush2112

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Posts posted by Rush2112

  1. I always thought the starting numbers in multi-grade oil had to do with initial viscosity at cold weather starting temps... so a 5w would flow better with a lower viscosity than a 10w at the same cold engine temp... 0w would flow best at cold weather starting temps

    ...and the closer the numbers are the less the oil relies on additive packages to achieve the hot temp viscosity... so a 0w30 would need more additives to the base oil which expand and unravel with temp and increase viscosity at operating temp than a 10w30...

    ... Damn it, Jim... I'm a microbiologist not an engineer...

    I could be wrong...

    I can answer your questions on the level of an oil engineer...

    5W

    The starting numbers and the letter W have no viscosity reference...

    API ranks the first number and the letter W from the newest to the

    oldest on its ability to lube your engine during critical start up

    0w

    5W

    10W

    15W

    20W

    Additive Package

    Additive package is about 8 to 10 % of an oils volume and has no

    relationship to viscosity...

    Viscosity Improver

    What unravels and expands are Viscosity Improver VI... In a fully

    synthetic oil, the molecules have the same size and composition which

    decreases friction and consumes less HP so synthetics need less VI

    whereas the straight mineral oil the molecules vary in size and

    composition which increases friction and thus need more VI... that’s

    the chief reasons why synthetics recommend longer oil change intervals

    and shear down less than straight mineral oils...

    ...

    What's important about a fully synthetic oil are the molecules which

    are the same size and composition which decreases friction... In a

    mineral oil the molecules vary in size and composition which increases

    friction...

    I picked up some M1 5w30 to test out based on your input... does the oil need to be motorcycle specific or will this work?

  2. I always thought the starting numbers in multi-grade oil had to do with initial viscosity at cold weather starting temps... so a 5w would flow better with a lower viscosity than a 10w at the same cold engine temp... 0w would flow best at cold weather starting temps

    ...and the closer the numbers are the less the oil relies on additive packages to achieve the hot temp viscosity... so a 0w30 would need more additives to the base oil which expand and unravel with temp and increase viscosity at operating temp than a 10w30...

    ... Damn it, Jim... I'm a microbiologist not an engineer...

    I could be wrong...

  3. Don't forget the turbocharger on that big diesel, spinning away at 100,000 RPM.

    I think that qualifies as "high speed".

    True but the mechanical issue that causes excessive aeration is not a 100k spinning ball bearing... the problem relates to crankshaft

    speed at the rate of higher and higher RPMs...

    ...

    Larry,

    Does the 5th gen have the same oil pump as Mr. RC45? Are your figures & measurements directly translatable to the 5th gen engines?

    Thanks...

  4. If you are doing significant modifications to the bike (AKA track or SF), it saves a ton of space, and 1lb of weight maybe.

    A ton of space? Like a few cubic inches in areas where it's completely irrelevant, and no weight savings to speak of

    Cleaning up the appearance and creating space to work with is important for streetfighter builds because you don't have body work to hide the clutter; and yes, it saves at least a pound, I forget the exact amount I weighed, not a lot but when trying to lighten a modern track bike there are no big lumps of weight to hack off... it comes off in a lots of small amounts that add up... as Yoshi pointed out.

    ... and yes, COPs can give a hotter spark. Any time your pushing 60K+ volts through a wire there are voltage losses, longer the wire and higher the temperature the more loss, especially as the wire ages. Is this significant? Depends on the person...

    Virtually all modern sport bikes have COPs, don't they?

    Agree with Mr. Yoshi!

    But, and this is my opinion, I am quite sure industrial designers have the "can this be improved somehow" genes. They look at one element and see room for improvement. In this case improvement is also an improvement when the Mr. Bossman of -insert your favorite brand here- says, hey, great idea Mr. Designer dude, we saved xxxxx amounts of usd on shipping thanks to your compact, low weight sparkie thingy, AND we now sell more of them as a pure bonus!

    I'm NOT saying cop are bad, but I surely did not change many coils before cop came along...

    Oh, I agree wholeheartedly! I know lots of engineers... my Dad is one, and they generally are thinking of how to do things better; unfortunately, I've also seen the other side when they don't anticipate the unintended consequences of their changes!

    In this case, I think COPs have proven themselves... they are used on modern sportbikes by most brands whether Japanese, British, or German... it's a good idea that has gotten traction across many companies.

    I've had a couple of bad coils in my lifetime... probably will have a bad COP too. Just because the conventional coil + sparkplug lead set-up is reliable doesn't mean it can't be improved.

    Some folks may have a need to this mod; some will want to do it... for others, it won't have any value to them.

    @gig

    Looks Great!

    I thought it was closer to 1 1/2 lbs lighter... thanks for the confirmation :beer:

  5. If you are doing significant modifications to the bike (AKA track or SF), it saves a ton of space, and 1lb of weight maybe.

    A ton of space? Like a few cubic inches in areas where it's completely irrelevant, and no weight savings to speak of

    Cleaning up the appearance and creating space to work with is important for streetfighter builds because you don't have body work to hide the clutter; and yes, it saves at least a pound, I forget the exact amount I weighed, not a lot but when trying to lighten a modern track bike there are no big lumps of weight to hack off... it comes off in a lots of small amounts that add up... as Yoshi pointed out.

    ... and yes, COPs can give a hotter spark. Any time your pushing 60K+ volts through a wire there are voltage losses, longer the wire and higher the temperature the more loss, especially as the wire ages. Is this significant? Depends on the person...

    Virtually all modern sport bikes have COPs, don't they?

  6. I expect to be riding rain or shine, so I do want safe grip in either conditions. I also want a comfortable ride. I still have the original OEM Bridgestones with 3500 miles on them, but they are five years old.

    I don't know if it would be worth switching out for something else. I keep hearing about the Michelin P3 and P4's. How do they rate on a VFR?

    I love my Pirelli Angel GTs in all conditions on my VFR800... don't know how they will perform on the big 1200

    • Like 1
  7. No, I talked to Yaman about this already. The rapid bike evo and racing come defaulted for 2 narrow band factory sensors (left bank and right bank). Then if you use my tuning bike, you must select to run 1, 2 or 4 wide band o2 sensor mode. All the o2 sensors piggy back into each other, so if you want to run 4 wide band o2 sensor mode (where you can tune each cylinder individually) the rapid bike needs to be able to recognize that all four MTB's are present.

    Trust me I wanted to do it this way, because buying 4 MTB's was expensive, but even if you could tune one at a time, it would take forever and as you tuned one cylinder to be optimal the other three would indirectly be tuning to be less optimal. You would be running around in circles forever....

    Honestly I would be more than happy to give you guys my map to save you the money and trouble, but I have a full race header and over bore throttle bodies so my tuning is wayyyy off. But I will be more than happy to lend a hand and tuning advice :)

    Can you load individual maps for each cylinder even if you don't have 4 MTBs? If yes, then couldn't I allow the RB Race to collect data and develop an adjustment table but only load that adjustment map into the desired cylinder?

    I don't mind riding 1,000 miles to save $1,000... :goofy:

    I've got two 5th gens I'm trying to work with... I appreciate your offer to share your map but with your mods and different gen we really are talking apples & oranges here...

  8. My inquiry for relocating is because I would like to use that space up front for something else... as mentioned earlier, a RC51 cooler in the stock location adds an additional tier and should improve heat transfer by ~30%. I forget if it is the SP1 or SP2 that works best because of the fitting angles... someone (Veefer?) can chime in...

  9. Yaman, or perhaps CRRC or another resident expert can answer this question...

    Can a single MTB sensor, or possibly 2 MTB be used to tune all four cylinders individually by collecting data then moving the sensor(s) to a different header primary and programming the RapidBike Race to "see" the sensor on the different cylinder(s) and collect a new data set?

  10. oh for gods sake.

    just run the oil lines back to the tail and have a copper coiled tube in a shroud with 2 computer fans. you could ride in the sahara with this set up. :rolleyes:

    Have you done this? What diameter cooper tubing and how many feet of coiled tubing gives an effective cooling loop since there are no fins?

  11. I noticed absolutely no one runs 16/44...As it applies to a 6th gen (16/43 stock), why not? Not enough of a difference?

    I 'm wondering the same thing. I 'm happy with the stock gearing, but I plan to change to 16/44 at some point in the future. I don't want to see my bike's MPG drop in the straights and I only want it to accelerate with slightly less effort and to be a bit easier to ride in the city. As it is right now, I can tell that my VFR doesn't like too low speed.

    I've also heard that MPG might even improve with 16/44, probably because stock gearing is somewhat tall and the engine doesn't have to work so hard to accelerate the bike.

    Firebladestan runs 16/44... perhaps they could provide insight to mpg and acceleration

  12. ...

    I'm wondering if anyone has ever successfully removed the reed valve screws with just a screwdriver? Not me. I was able to remove them by clamping vise grips on the head of the screws and unscrewing...

    I removed 4 of them without issue... IIRC there is a small nut (6mm or 7mm) on the back that I wrenched and held the screw with a screwdriver

  13. So I have a Rapidbike Quickshift sensor and associated wiring assembly.

    how would you personally get the related pushrod, and linkage ends to do a linear-travel frame/sprocket cover mount install of the rapidbike shifter? I'm mostly drawing straws on what I should pick up to attach to the QS sensor than what to tap to facilitate it's use.

    I'm all for modifying but you may want to get rearsets and substitute the quick shifter push-rod... if you're unsure on how to fabricate you may butcher the install and regret it later... personally, that is what i would do.

    • Like 1
  14. Ok so the harness is all connected and plugged in, the bike starts and runs, however when I connect the usb and try to get a connection on my laptop it says ERROR...TUNING BIKE/RAPID BIKE NOT CONNECTED (20)

    ??????? WHAT AM I DOING WRONG???????

    Do you have the right software installed to tune the module? Did you download the master software with your serial number from the instructions?

  15. Thanks, is there any more vfr Engine running with non honda Electronic?

    the cost for hardware included turbo is about 2000$

    Are you offering a kit for sale?

    Thanks everybody, hopefully this video from 0,7 bar bost ,

    And more Picture comming

    Did that bike just get up to 105 mph in about 7 seconds!?!?!

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