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Rush2112

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Posts posted by Rush2112

  1. Factory Pro EVO Shift Star Kits Available Again!!!

    I have been waiting for one that I purchased at a discount price from MotoPartsHub for more than 5 months because they were on back order. I finally bit the bullet and ordered one in April directly from Marc S. at Factory Pro (innovator behind the product) at full price. I guess this was the tipping point so he went ahead and commissioned the machine shop to made another run of these SHFT-EVO-H91 kits for the VFR800 '98-'05 & interestingly enough, the '94 RC45.

    I have talked with Marc personally and he is a GREAT guy... wealth of knowledge and a pleasure to deal with. Wanted to give anyone interested in these a heads up because they have been unobtanium for a little while...

    I received my new run shift star kit from Marc last week and the MotoPartsHub one arrived today... now I have one for the street and one for the track!

    :cheerleader: :cheerleader: :cheerleader:

  2. Thank you guys, I appreciate it. Now let's see if this thread has capacity for this much awesome...

    Andy's

    post-20150-0-16613400-1372732820.jpg

    Mine:

    gallery_5444_7585_162773.jpg

    Careful, you don't want to crash the internet...Both builds came out awesome. You guys have tremendous talent!

    H&LL Yeah!!

    Brothers... You all have got skills and do us proud!!!

  3. Question for Yaman. I had my bike dyno'd yesterday & the factory rev limiter cut in at exactly the same 12,200rpm as before when running on PC3. I requested my unit have a 300rpm rev extend which is not apparent.

    So my question is this, whilst sorting the fuelling I've had at least 2 firmware updates from Dimsport via the Rapid bike PC software, will these have reset the Rev limit ? To factory default ? All other user setting appear to have been maintained !

    If this is the case how can I get the Rev extend back ?

    Well the unit arrived and I've fitted it and carried out a full test over the same route as before.

    Problem solved. Yippee!

    A big thank you to Yaman and Daniele at Dimport IT.

    Phil

    Hi Phil, so how's the 825 going ? Wil you get it dyno run now you have a good module ? Here's my latest.

    attachicon.gifimage.jpg

    I'm fairly certain if I had my missing 300 RPM then it would have hit the magic 120hp I was aiming for !

    Be good to see the difference the big bore makes.

    Soooo close... my eye extends it out the last 300 rpms and I think you make it!

    Is that with the Yoshi style stacks? Torque curve looks silky smooth and quite tasty!

  4. I am in the process of gathering the intelligence for a DIY setup.

    Found Turner clamps and bar for $102

    X001.jpg

    Just need to understand whether this setup will work with a 929 tripple, which has little room due to a gull wing design

    FD5C1E4A-E4E9-4101-9BA2-D4AF534B69A6_zps

    Rice, Use an RC51 upper triple, and you can drill the top for your aftermarket bar clamps.

    Same spacing between 929/954 and RC51, so it slips right on. And it's flat on top.

    doesn't it have to be either the SP1 or SP2? I thought there was a difference in the steering stem diameter... or something that made the two versions slightly different.

  5. Well, from the factory, the clutch basket is aluminum and the springs and bolts are steel, so......

    That was my thought too... but titanium or stainless is different than spring steel and I don't if the electrical potential is greater or less and if adding the third type of metal to the mix makes it worse/better/no effect???

    I looked at a stainless counter-sunk washer from Pro-Bolt to eliminate the extra washer under the aluminum one but they were significantly heavier... spinning at 11k rpms I didn't know if I was comfortable with that route. That was what made me think about Ti and then I really didn't know if that would play nice with the aluminum...

    I was hoping one of our brainiacs would know the answer.

  6. No idea about the corrosion. Never really thought about it.

    Being bathed in oil, I would not have suspected corrosion.

    For galvanic corrosion to occur, one needs an electrical current.

    I would assume that all the parts in the clutch have the same electrical potential, but I don't know.

    From my understanding, which is limited, galvanic corrosion can occur when depending on the different metals properties they create an electrical potential between them when in the presence of moisture and the current passes between the different metals slowly over time with one of the metals becoming oxidized as it gains electrons

  7. ...

    P.S. Yaman is on point and those guys have the best customer service around..

    Ditto... customer service from Yaman is exceptional! Every question and email gets answered... I sent in my module for the 5th gen re-progamming and he noticed a hairline crack in the case and is replacing the unit complete with new warranty starting from the date of replacement!

    I brought my car into Acura for an air bag replacement due to a recall and they didn't even reset my SRS light because... "it's not listed in the recall". Dealer wanted to charge me another minumum $125 to hook it up to "the computer"... Acura could learn from Yaman on how to treat customers!

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  8. ..... There must be another willing 6th gen owner in the Orlando area that would be willing to have a FREE Dyno run ! Roll up roll up. Get it on.

    I agree... I can't believe we haven't had a 6th gen Orlando volunteer to have a free dyno run!!!

    Maybe since they don't have a RapidBike they aren't reading the thread... CRRC, start another thread with Free Dyno Run for Orlando area 6th Gen!!! as the title...

  9. Hi Guys,

    I have just joined the forum , we are Cycle Pro - RapidBike USA distributor (One and only ) our web site is www.rapidbike.us and my goal here is not to promote a product but rather answer questions that are related to RapidBike Racing and Evo modules along with accesories and RapidBike Master software, ...

    Y.T.

    Hi Yaman,

    I purchased my Rapid Bike Racing for my 5th gen VFR 800 (98 - 01) during the initial buy-in to get this project off the ground. We knew the unit was specifically for the 6th gen but we figured we could get it to work with the 5th gen; 2 members are currently using it on 5th gen engines. The website states the 5th gen RB Racing will be available soon, will this be a software/firmware upgrade that I can have done on my RB Racing module?

    Also, are you offering VFRD members discounts for the My Tuning bike and RapidBikeQuick Shifter?

    Please let me know the answers to these 3 questions. Thanks...

    • Like 1
  10. I tried to tint mine (with film, not spray) and I finally decided to just paint it flat black in honor of TTC... Looks great IMO! Besides, I never tuck all the way down behind it on my Y2k... I keep my eyes just above the top of the wind screen when I tuck in tight.

    Mine is on the home page right now with the flat black painted on the inside of the wind shield if you want to see what it looks like. The plastic gives it a smooth glossy look when viewed from the outside and the flat black cuts reflection and light on the inside

  11. my 5th gen has no sensors - so need to make the holes accordingly if i go ahead with the autotune.

    Yes, and with a single wide band O2 sensor for the AutoTune positioning it after all the merges will give you the best "average" A/F reading for all the cylinders. The only PCV AutoTune for multiple O2 inputs that I was aware of is for the Harley Davidson's...

    Has DynoJet improved the AutoTune module to include multiple O2 sensors for Hondas?

  12. I think he is looking for where did he drill and mount the bung for the wideband O2 sensor... I suggest something similar to Mohawks TBR header (see below on left)

    post-24524-0-99555600-1425160813.jpg

    isnt it suppose to be more towards the header instead of the exhaust ?

    That is only slightly farther downstream than the factory O2 sensors on the gen 5.5 & 6... that position allows measurement of all the cylinder gases instead of two or one. I understand your point about positioning and there is a "Goldilock's" distance from the cylinder exhaust port to get the most accurate reading; too close and the exhaust gases are too hot and completing combustion, too far and they are starting to cool and have consumed more available oxygen giving an apparent richer mixture than actual... you can adjust your A/F target to compensate for the position of the wide band O2 sensor if needed.

  13. Ah-ha!

    So based on this article my previous assertion with a minor semantic correction, "...the closer the numbers are the less the oil relies on additive packages viscosity improvers (VI) to achieve the hot temp viscosity... so a 0w30 would need more additives to the base oil which expand and unravel with temp and increase viscosity at operating temp than a 10w30..." ... is correct, yes?

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