Rush2112

On 10/15/2019 at 8:05 PM, Cogswell said:

PM sent re interest in 5/6 and 8th gen sets.

 

Ditto... I’m in for 5th gen and 8th gen sets.  PM sent.

4 hours ago, Baileyrock said:

Cool to see this decade old thread still going!

Thanks all.

BR - it’s cool to come back after a year or so and see some things haven’t changed... it’s quite comforting actually.

I’m glad to see your still around! I look forward to connecting and catching up on a ride someday

On 8/19/2019 at 12:14 PM, CornerCarver said:

So glad to have you back! You were missed and we have some catching up to do when you get down (strike that now) up to the Eastern TN area ping me.

I’m glad to be back.  I can’t wait get back and ride the Smokies again...  eastern TN is where I wanted to move to for the riding but the wife wanted Florida.

... so we moved to Florida lol

i look forward to getting back and connecting! I’ll definitely look you up when I’m in the area!

Im actually a couple of hundred miles closer with my new address than I was riding from STL

On 8/10/2019 at 12:49 PM, Duc2V4 said:

Sorry, life, work balance isn’t where we like it to be at the moment. SF and I have been busy with other things at the moment but we’ll be posting up soon, most likely in a new thread. We are also trying to negotiate with the builder to see if we can lessen the minimum order but that negotiation is still on going. If the minimum doesn’t change, then we will need 15 to get the next run in and depending on how soon we can collect 15 orders will dictate whether is this season or the next. Right now with the few inquiries being made, it looks like we are still needing double digits to complete a 15 order minimum.

You can change my order to two (2) 5th/6th headers if that helps move the needle closer to production.  I’ll buy an 8th gen for front rads at a later date. Let me know where/when/how to place deposit or pay in full.

Quote

 

I can’t believe I’m seeing what I’m seeing.... actual, live in the flesh (stainless steel), new performance headers for the VFR800’s!

I hope the more recent owners of VFR800s appreciate the gravity and significance of this accomplishment!  If I had any plans for more kids I would name them after these two fine gentlemen!

Thank you seems like too small an acknowledgment.... we should have a ride, throw a party, and consume mass quantities!

All I can do for now is thank you and acknowledge and support your efforts.  Next time I’m in your area of the country dinner and drinks are on me!

Please put me down for two sets of headers; a 5th gen full system and an 8th gen version... I already told the book keeper (wife) I’m getting them so let me know where to send the money.

I know I’ve been gone for a while... I’d like to let my friends on VFRD know that everything is ok now and I’m stoked to be back!

BTW... it took me three days to read through this thread!

.... and I loved every minute of it!

Dutchy, that is SWEEEEEET!!!

I buddy of mine won a KTM supermoto on a magazine contest along with a year end invite to the finals in Las Vegas... but I would take a MotoGP Assen weekend over that!

Good on you!!!  We expect nothing less than full on umbrella girls and GP bikes pics!!!

Congrats!!!

On 4/13/2018 at 3:41 AM, gig said:

It Is not easy to get fluid through a dry system with the linked brakes. I have never had a shop do any work on my bike in the 18 years I've owned it that is the one i would reconsider, if it had an experienced mechanic on staff, It is a mother-f-er. Front is doable but from the secondary master up though the various hard lines valves etc. Periodically over the years and 20 bottles of fluid i would bleed and using all methods and i still there was air in the system. If i did it myself again and was leaving the linked system, would "only replace the front lines" back is pretty useless especially with air in the line you will never get out

Did you try a Mity-Vac or another vacuum brake bleeding device? I did my LBS with new braided SS lines and it came out great. Patience and systematic approach and everything worked well.  Trick was to vacuum bleed the upper valve under the seat.  Brake performance was greatly improved.

14 hours ago, Dutchy said:

Give me sniff of a twisty dyke and I will ride her.... 

Hey Dutchy!

Thanks for the lol... can always count on you for the double entendre 

Love the look of your SP2... that's my favorite Honda race livery scheme!

Hi Rush2112,

Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

12 hours ago, shaynus said:

But when I get an idea in my head I want to do something about it NOW!

... and then have the parts sit in my shed for 6-12 months until I get a chance to do anything and then another 6-12 months until I finish it!

;-)

Wow!

It's like looking in a mirror... that sounds just like me 

Are you still going ahead with the 5 gen mounts?

I'm in for a set of 5th gen if there is a group buy...

Has anyone installed a Rapidbike quickshift module onto a 6th gen? If so can you post up some pictures. I have the racing module on mine and was thinking about it but I figure I'll have to change the rearsets out for something with a linkage in it for the module. Not sure if I can do something with Honda parts or have to go aftermarket?

Thanks,

Nick

8th gen rearsets for the optional quickshifter should work for Honda stuff... Sato rearsets for aftermarket.

I used mother board standoffs to make the spark plug longer so the COP make a good connection with the spark plug, and an extra o ring to help seal them.

Haven't done a lot of ks with them, but I have done a trackday with them. Works great.

The problem I see with the standoffs is that it pushes the whole thing away and off the plug. Normally the rubber end of the CoP is a snug fit around the plug and keeping it sealed. With the standoff you won't have that seal and more chance of problems if anything gets past the upper seal.

Not saying you will have problems, but it's something to be aware of.

I have also become aware that some VFRs use plugs with the exposed screw thread at the top and others use a plug with a solid top and any cap or CoP is only going to really fit properly on the plug type for which it was designed. Otherwise it will either not actually clip on or will be loose. Maybe these differences only apply to later VFRs already with CoPs and so fitting CoPs to earlier bikes shouldn't have this problem, but if the plugs have also been changed...

It might be an idea if thinking of doing this, to be sure the top of the plug is compatible with the CoP being installed.

Finally, I think the primary connections ARE polarity conscious. Get it wrong and I cannot but think it will fail to work correctly as the HT from the secondary coil will be trying to find ground through the primary. The negative side (earth) of both primary and secondary coils must be connected together. The secondary coli MUST be connected at both ends or current cannot flow. The high side is to ground via the plug (and the spark), but the low side has to be connected to ground to complete the circuit and without any other possible route, it must use the same ground terminal as the low side of the primary. At least, that's how I see it. If anyone thinks differently, please chime in.

If you pick up an '08 CBR1k coil wire harness (~$20 USD on eBay) the wire color coding matches the 5th gen VFR and you can wire it directly into the VFR harness with no issues. I've put thousands of miles on mine with no issues.

PS: the '08 CBR1k COPs have a silver metallic body as opposed to the black plastic ones and they were long enough for the VFR plugs... fits nice and snug in the hole just like Gig said. Slid my bike into a gully and the fan + lights connections got screwed up... COPs, no problem... kept right on sparking away.

I used mother board standoffs to make the spark plug longer so the COP make a good connection with the spark plug, and an extra o ring to help seal them.

Haven't done a lot of ks with them, but I have done a trackday with them. Works great.

The problem I see with the standoffs is that it pushes the whole thing away and off the plug. Normally the rubber end of the CoP is a snug fit around the plug and keeping it sealed. With the standoff you won't have that seal and more chance of problems if anything gets past the upper seal.

Not saying you will have problems, but it's something to be aware of.

I have also become aware that some VFRs use plugs with the exposed screw thread at the top and others use a plug with a solid top and any cap or CoP is only going to really fit properly on the plug type for which it was designed. Otherwise it will either not actually clip on or will be loose. Maybe these differences only apply to later VFRs already with CoPs and so fitting CoPs to earlier bikes shouldn't have this problem, but if the plugs have also been changed...

It might be an idea if thinking of doing this, to be sure the top of the plug is compatible with the CoP being installed.

Finally, I think the primary connections ARE polarity conscious. Get it wrong and I cannot but think it will fail to work correctly as the HT from the secondary coil will be trying to find ground through the primary. The negative side (earth) of both primary and secondary coils must be connected together. The secondary coli MUST be connected at both ends or current cannot flow. The high side is to ground via the plug (and the spark), but the low side has to be connected to ground to complete the circuit and without any other possible route, it must use the same ground terminal as the low side of the primary. At least, that's how I see it. If anyone thinks differently, please chime in.

If you pick up an '08 CBR1k coil wire harness (~$20 USD on eBay) the wire color coding matches the 5th gen VFR and you can wire it directly into the VFR harness with no issues. I've put thousands of miles on mine with no issues.

I'm interested.

Very nice work Dr Frankenstein.

Err, Seb.

May you make lots of money at this.

Someone hook Seb up with a Rock Star that likes bikes.

I hear Neil Ellwoood Peart is a big fan of bikes... I'm sure he would love yours!

May not suit his touring lifestyle, but hey, you never know... take a spin past YYZ and see if he's around, you're not TOO far...

AWESOME DUDE!!!

Well deserved for such a fine piece of craftsmanship...

It was 104F outside temp on the ride down... I think it was 102F the day the bike started overheating stopped at a light on the ride back, coolant didn't puke out, everything was filled to spec with approved fluids. I had it idling while BR gassed up because I was having battery issues and was trying to make it back to Nashville. Jumped back on the highway and it cooled back to normal operating temps... normal for 100+F riding. My concern was the low wear protection rating for Rotella T6 5w40 at 230F, I don't know how low it got with an oil temp 275F or higher when my coolant reached 250F... it was changed after the trip and I didn't get a UOA. M1 5w30 still measures good wear protection even at 275*F, an added level of security and piece of mind.

I moved from the Rotella T6 5w-40 to Mobil 1 5w-30 Extended Performance due to the wear protection capability test data ranking M1 5w30 4th out of 176 oils tested.

Was that in a motorcycle engine or car?

...

Neither... motor oil Dynamic Wear Testing Under Load at operating oil temp of 230°F

The Wear Protection reference categories are:

• Over 105,000 psi = INCREDIBLE wear protection.

• 90,000 to 105,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection.

• 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection.

• 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST wear protection.

• Below 60,000 psi = UNDESIRABLE wear protection

Rank #4. 5W30 Mobil 1, Advanced Full Synthetic = 117,799 psi

… also tested this oil at the much higher temperature of 275°F. At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. And this oil did have a disappointing 36% drop in capability. At that reduced value down to 75,861 psi, this much hotter and thinner oil dropped down to the GOOD Wear Protection Category. You can avoid such a drop in capability by keeping the oil at a more reasonable cooler temperature.

… 138 oils tested later

Rank #142. 5W40 SHELL ROTELLA T6 Diesel Oil, synthetic = 67,804 psi

So, even at 275°F M1 5W30 has better wear protection than 5w40 T6 at 230°F

This is why I switched.

When I was following BR home from the AMA Superbike races in Birmingham my bike coolant temp peaked at a blinking 250°F at a light after we got gas... I was running T6 at the time and engine oil is usually ~20° or more hotter than your coolant, so after reading this data I'm afraid of how low my wear protection dropped on that trip.

I moved from the Rotella T6 5w-40 to Mobil 1 5w-30 Extended Performance due to the wear protection capability test data ranking M1 5w30 4th out of 176 oils tested.

Procrastination not my middle name.....

Carefully cut out a 30 cm strip from the paper between the case and the red lenses and adhered the (3M taped) ledstrips to the case

I've ordered some waterproof male/female plugs to be able to connect to the brake light wiring.

redslut is in deep storage for a few more months so.......... to be continued!

Very cool Dutchy!

I've thought about doing something similar and you made it look so easy I guess I have no excuse...

Is there a thread about fitting 6th gen rearsets to a 5th gen? Straight parts swap?

Cheers,

Yeah, just need to put a 6th gen lower cushion on the 5th gen... some differences in the swingarm pivot bolt end nut but still an easy swap. I did it on my track bike project.

Hey Guys,

Well a couple of years ago I embarked on a project to replace the rear sets on my 5 Gen with the that of a 6 Gen. The reasons were two fold; Firstly, I thought they looked tons better. Secondly, I wanted to have an option for a different rear set in the future. Well I have been looking at the Sato sets but was kinda choking on the $600+ price. The I looked at the 8 Gen quick shifter but that was $400 plus a new step holder. I knew the new step holder was key so bought that and then starting going through the Honda parts bin. This is what I have come up with. The pedal is in almost the exact same position as stock and I am just waiting on the arm for the gearshift lever to come in. So far though, I am pretty happy with where its going. Plus all stock Honda parts. Always nice and no need to do anything to the right side.

It looks like he bought an 8th gen foot peg bracket (QS style) and mounted it to his 6th gen lower cushion that is grafted onto a 5th gen VFR. Brilliant!

Details on what shift lever and and push rod are being used is lacking and I would LOVE to have more info please!!!

Odometers are generally more accurate because of mileage warranties, reads low they lose money, reads high they get sued and lose money; speedometers usually read higher than actual because of liability, you'll never get in trouble for showing someone speed as high, show someones speed as low and they crash or get a ticket and the manufacturer gets sued and lose money... it's driven by money and legal ramifications.

Another update on this project;

I spoke to a few engineers about this bolt. The consensus is the spiral increases stretch which actually reduces clamping force on the crankcases.

Thanks for this bit of info... I accidentally backed one of these out when I was looking for an antifreeze drain when I first got my Y2K VFR800. It's on the lower part of the front of that engine.

Great thread and what a piece of history... Good luck!