Tirso

11 hours ago, Cogswell said:

 

How does (or does it?) this work with the rear wheel from a SSSA?

I've used the optional $45 adapter with both my VFR and Ducati hubs. On the previous link, there's a video on how the adapter fits a KTM SSSA wheel. Tire removal/installation would then be the same as this tutorial.

3 hours ago, Sweeper said:

 I'm dropping the money for a Rabaconda.

Got a Rabaconda during last Black Friday sale along with a Harbor Freight wheel balancer.  What used to take hours and multiple round trips to shop, now takes minutes in my garage.  Easy to store, set up and use.

Hi Tirso,

Thank you for your donation of 75.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

1 hour ago, Hingley said:

I have a 1999 Honda VFR800 in Pearl Yellow with a set of Corbin Beetle Bags.

The Corbin bags have some damage from a tip over sometime in it's life and I would like to have them repaired and painted to match the Honda yellow.

My question is have you guys that have painted using the Honda Codes had good luck matching existing paint ?

 

Color Rite sells a 3 part kit that I tried using to no success. It was tough to match. You may have better luck 

8 hours ago, YoshiHNS said:

The only TT VFR800 I remember was the one that had the gray front fairings. But it was still a stock standard VFR. Maybe it was for track marshalls? THINK the pic below is it.

 

This bike is Color Code R157E and was a factory Europe only model to celebrate Honda's 50 anniversary. Only paint and decals were different. I saw a few on the road in London and one for sale new at a Berlin Honda dealer in '99-'00. This paint scheme is a tribute to early Honda race bikes. Look closely and you'll see silver pinstriping on the tank and rear cowl. Not aware of any performance mods from the factory.

Honda Britain also developed a 50th Anniversary UK specific line that included: VTR1000 Firestorm aka SuperHawk, CBR1200xx Super Blackbird, CB900rr Fireblade CBR600f, and VFR800.  This special edition VFR was sold with: Remus exhaust, Harris rear sets and frame sliders. I don't remember of any other mods. 

Re: pic of bike in question. have no idea. The paint looks orange,

9 hours ago, Evascio said:

Thanks 🙂 I will clean it up and monitor for a month or 2? I don't really know if how fast it shows up again is too fast.

Behind the front sprocket cover (#1 below on a "99, but judging from your picture, similar on yours)  you may find a large build up of the black sludge I see in the your picture. The heat from your engine will just keep melting the sludge which will require constant cleaning.  Cleaning the area behind the sprocket cover will keep the area cleaner longer than if you just clean the visible area. The cause? what ever you use to lube your chain. 

I just cleaned mine a few days ago, big mess with lots of gravel.

Gear Floss , "The ultimate detailing tool"

1 hour ago, Gaz66 said:

1) it's possible one or more of the starter valve plungers may be sticking within its bore.

2) What seems to not get discussed on this matter is that the old style vac gauges that most have must be synched to each other before any adjustments are attempted on the bike or any adjustments made are pretty much irrelevant.

 

1) had this issue with my 5th Gen when I got it in late '18. It had only 18K miles and two of the plungers were sticking.

2) had similar issue last year with my Carbtune Pro 4 where the tubes needed cleaning.

and as mentioned by Grum above, read this

Try an insurance broker. For decades I was with State Farm but with our last house purchase, the real estate agent suggested going with a broker.  The broker provided home/auto insurance quotes far lower than any of the big name insurance companies with the new company having a similar AM Best rating as State Farm. Though for my motorbikes, Progressive had the best deal. Good luck!

In 2017 Yamaha EU and Abarth built this:
https://www.asphaltandrubber.com/bikes/yamaha-xsr900-abarth/

In JP, Yamaha sells a Seca Kit for ≈ $1,500. Same rear cowl as the "GP" bike.

1 hour ago, adkfinn said:

I have been running these for a few yrs and they've been good so far: https://kosonorthamerica.com/product/apollo-heated-grips-universal-fit-120mm/

 

I did not like the boxy Oxford controller at all, and the Koso's have the switch integrated into the left grip edge, which I liked better. They get plenty hot (5 settings, color coded via the single LED at the switch), the control is super easy.... right there by my thumb if my hands get cold. You do have to reach over/past the grip heat switch to get the horn, but this is no big deal to me. Seem to be good quality, nicely made, nicely terminated for easy install also. 

Like the no boxy controller and the thumb switch. Thanks for the suggestion. I can see these on my 2nd VFR. You have any pictures especially of the throttle side?

8 hours ago, Ziffer said:

 I think the touring grips are the cushiest, and therefor the most likely to help.

Both Evo Touring (5th Gen) and non Evo Adventure (Super Tenere) are hard.  The Evo Touring is 120mm which fits well on the 5th Gen.

2 hours ago, Ziffer said:

 

Yeah, the grips look good. The controller, not so much.

 

Actually, I was looking at these Oxford grips: nhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N12ZYR9/ref=sw_img_1?smid=A2Q63DCTCV9545&th=1

 

I was kinda just waiting to see if there were some VFR specific ones, and for someone to confirm that the Oxfords were good. But now with the discussion about heating pads, I'm back on the fence. For one thing, the pads just have a lead that can route pretty much anywhere, where the Oxfords have a directional lead that has to have enough room to fit. I've shaved down the stops on my triple tree and frame so I can turn the wheel sharper. I'm not sure the Oxfords won't hit the tank at full lock. Also, which Oxfords would I buy? I was leaning toward the premium touring grips, but do I want the touring grips? Are the Evos better? So many options...

So many Oxford options is so true. 

I had the same set you're looking at for my Super Tenere and they were fine. I don't think there's any "performance" difference between the Evo's that I'm using on my 5th Gen (paid $120 back then) vs the non Evo $65 version you're looking at.  The big reason I bought the Evos over the non Evo model, I like the controller better.  The non Evo model has bright colors that I don't like while the Evo is plain

I bought the touring model, at 120mm they fit perfectly.  Wiring can be a pain if you want a clean install. I had to take off the upper cowl, get it all to fit around the upper cowl stay, remove the left side cowl, lift the tank, and remove the seat cowl and the seat. On the throttle side,  took some calculating to make sure the throttle was not impeded anywhere along the bars travel and also making sure the cable did not push against the bars.  I cut and soldered the excess lines. Yes it took me far more time than I'm willing to admit, but I'd do it again.  They are really hot. I use these gloves year round and during the winter, even in the upper 30's, the first setting is enough and after a bit I turn them off cause they're too hot.

Heated grips are the shizzle.

Oxford Evo Touring, they get hot even at the first level, I like the way they look. 

How about replacing the TPS harness? You'll have to unwrap the tape and de pin the three wires at the Grey 10P connector. 

He will be missed. Always helpful. From his writing, what a brain! We were lucky to have him on this forum. Hope his family is well, hope you are well.

On Reddit someone from CH (https://www.reddit.com/user/DerGRAFder13/) had same issue. https://www.reddit.com/r/VFR/comments/1197jdy/got_the_new_ride/ 
Someone else mentioned, as you just did, they were restricted for new riders (A2).
I don't know how he resolved the issue, but he mentioned he spoke to Gerhard at https://www.thurn-motorsport.de/ who helped.
You may want to reach out to the Reddit user or Gerhard for clarification.

Good luck

This will help

That is one bad ass ride! Congratulations on your built and excellet work!! Thanks for taking the time to document. 

18 hours ago, Skids said:

1.       5^th Gen WILD headers (I like that name), passivated, NGK Titanium spark plugs, currently have new OEM air filter but happy to buy the larger K&N as it looks worth it. Question whether there is a better option than the supplied Delkevic crush washers? Some folk seem to have been having issues.

2.       Looking to purchase a high-mount GPR end can/muffler but slightly concerned with the potential fitting issue from the link pipe to the new headers due to differing diameters. I’m not aware of any specialist exhaust folk near me and don’t want to be left with all this beautiful kit lying on the bench because I can’t get 2 pipes to fit. And no, I possess neither the skills nor tools to DIY this. @sfdownhill (or anyone) – what’s the od at the back end of the WILD headers please? I can contact GPR and see what the id of their connector pipe is.

3.      PCV or RBM? PCV costs £432, which RBM is likely to be best suited as they don't seem to id which kit for which bike like DJ do? Atm, I'll plan to purchase a PCV, update so it runs with the 01. I’ll try stock map first but then look to pay the $50 for the Attack map. Never tried to tune a bike like this before so am a little nervous about it. Currently discounting the RBM as I think it’s a little overkill for my needs/skills, but does depend on price and skill level required to fit. The bike will only be on the road from April to September, no track days, just ridden to enjoy.

4.       O2 sensor set up – question; O2 eliminators on the front 2 sensor holes, PCV sensor on the rear one? Is this the way the PCV should be setup? 2 x O2 eliminators included with PCV. What connections does RBM require? 
 

Finally, @sfd/duc2v4 - can you email me when you want the deposit please

Hi S, I'll share my experince, hopefully this will help you or others.

First a Public Service Annoncement: 2 years ago @Dangeruss wrote an index on this thread. A+ work.

1) Presently Delkevic website is out of 42mm crush washers and have been since late summer when I tried to order a set. I've called them a few times but the phone was not answered.  I also emailed a few times, again no answer. Have not reached out the them in a few months. The crush washers are available on Delkevic's eBay store for $37.99 each (not doing that).  I think you'll have better luck finding 42mm crush washers on your side of the pond. Why 42mm crush washers over the stock 41mm? Note G from SF's Intro on the mega header build thread: "Significant improvement can be achieved over OEM gas flow through the exhaust port into the header primaries by using crush gaskets that do not intrude into the gas flow path when installed."

Reading @MooseMoose install thread, you can see how much the stock 41mm gaskets block the exhaust flow.  To install 42mm crush washers, I used a 32mm socket to press the washers in place, my sockets slightly < 42mm OD was a good fit to insert the crush washers into the exhaust port.

A note from MooseMoose's installaion, "For some reason, TBR made their (front) pipes very narrow, and you have to somehow spread them out to get them into the ports. I mean SUPER narrow. Like, line one up with a port and the other one is only covering 1/3 of its port. I texted @sfdownhill and asked if this was normal. His response was that this was expected and that he found lining up those back pipes first and loosely slip fitting them helped to get these lined up."

After a few thousand miles and subsequent heat cycles, I removed my headers to polish them. When I reinstalled them,  the front pipes were not as narrow as they were when new, this made reinstallation easier.
I did not remove the center stand for install. Just like you have to spread the front pipes for initial install, you can spread the header where it meets the center stand.

2) More info from SF's detail Intro:
-header's collector exit tube will have a 51mm od [See Note c below]

IMPORTANT - when having a slipon's midpipe expanded to fit this performance header, make certain the muffler shop expands it gradually in two or more small steps. Wade recommends drilling a relief hole at the muffler side ends of the midpipe's slots to distribute stress and reduce the possibility of tearing. Wade tested the viability of expanded slotted 304 stainless steel 18 gauge 2" od tubing by slotting a piece of 2" tubing while I was at his facility. He then expanded the slotted end of the tube in two steps to fit over the 51mm od collector exit pipe with no tearing at the slots.

I had my Staintune expanded by a shop that's both an exhaust shop (MGR Mufflers) and motorcycle repair shop (Pro J's Cycles). The technician took multiple small steps, the end result was perfect!  No drilling of relief hole was necessary.

3) I also had a Power Commander / Rapid Bike dilema. Found a few old threads here on VFRD dicussing the pros and cons. I noted a few questions and called Rapid Bike. Unfotnunatly the call did not go well. I must have called Y.T. on a bad day, after a few questions, he felt I would not be a good customer, would not be able to handle the installtion and hung up on me. I was disapointed and surprised as Y.T seemed friendly on his introductory thread. C’est la vie.

My next question: PC5 with or without a 02 sensor? I have a '99 so by default no sensor.  Understaing that the autotune functionality on a PC5 is not as robust as RB I opted to go bungless header and no sensor.  I know I'm not getting the optimum performance by getting perfect A/F ratios but I'm not trying to build a supreme racebike where every little HP counts.  This is just a bike to cruise around SF Bay with occasional trips to the Sierras.  Inititially I used a new PC5 that the nice folks at Revzilla priced matched an obscure eBay seller then gave me a promo 20%.  Though first I had to update the firmware on my PC5. I ran it with the Attack map and it was crazy, power wheelies in 2nd gear!  Then I torched  the PC5 when my Main Fuse B fused. I was lucky and found a used PC3 on ebay for a good price. I still have the PC3 and change between the Attack map and a map for a full Erion system I downloaded from VFRD. Eventually I'll get it tuned, but it runs fine and don't have access to a bike with autotune functionality to see what I'm missing out on.

4) No bungs, no sensors, no input here.

5) In the past, vfrheaders@gmail.com is what I used to communicate with the WiLD Development Team.

17 hours ago, Lotus said:

How difficult of an install was it?

You may have a different set of obstacles but this install on a 5th Gen should give you a general idea.

On my 5th Gen, I did not remove the center stand. 

Good to hear you and the bike are well.

Your write up was helpful with my conversion. Thanks again for sharing.

4 hours ago, Kbear said:

roughly $307.65 and it would take 3-4 months to get.

ouch

When I reached out to Harris in April '20, their lead time was 6-8 weeks at total cost ≈ $260 ish.

I didn't want to wait, went with our man at Thurn

Not a hugger but at least better looking than stock

He may have a version that could work, but also $$$

https://www.thurn-motorsport.de/html/kotflugel-rc46-2.html

39 minutes ago, Duc2V4 said:

6 Gen ECU, Injectors and coil on plug. The only thing I have that is 5 Gen is the motor, everything else is all 6 Gen. Thanks for the Ducati compliment. I bought that brand new in 1995 and I plan on keeping it until I can ride no more. 🙂

Bummer on the accident, good thing you're still here. You now have 5th gen whine with 6th gen style!  Love those Ducks.  Great looking bike!!