CandyRedRC46

okay now I understand. Full stand alone system. AWESOME!!!

so what software / hardware are you using to tune? a full stand alone computer or piggy back?

Awesome! You should really look into Rapid Bike Racing for wide band o2 sensor self tuning the fuel curve and the ability to tune the ignition curve.

Thanks for all the hard work! ~Jonathan Mravic~

Yeah he hasn't posted in like 4 months :( Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol I thought you were the op Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope, all my time and money is tied up with the new rapid bike system now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

More about those spal fans please Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Damn Phil you got me beat! lol that's the 07 plus R1 front end huh? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup I have got a pair of Mello Dudes block off plates too that I need to install ASAP. They are good stuff and I can Vouch for him!

I am running 2005 R1 forks in cbr954 triple trees with 2mm axle and rotor spacers, dan moto clip-ons and R1 wheel/brakes. Its awesome, with 7 wt fluid and 1.1 kg/mm springs, rides smooth with no fork dive under braking. Brakes are phenomenal by the way. The rear tire will lift effortlessly.

This may be a silly question, you being an engineer wannabee soontabee... is there enough metal in the throttle bodies to remove 2 mm from the walls without compromising integrity? Do you have 40mm Honda parts bin throttle plates lined up? If so, please share the model Honestly I was just going to buy a clean used set and send them away to maxbore.com and let them work their magic. If they can only get them to 38mm that's fine. Just smoothing out all the casting marks and knife edging the butterfly's and and pins should work wonders. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup that's what my research shows too. I know 46mm is way too large to run with out smaller velocity stacks, unless you are running the hrc race kit cams, pistons etc. but I would like to have mine bored out to about 40mm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am getting ready to do an overbore on the throttle bodies. Not worried about noise tests ;) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome! Don't forget the throttle bodies, velocity stacks and ignition timing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol Honda Kawasaki Suzuki Yamaha etc don't make forks. The forks are made by Showa or Kayaba etc... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You may need to shave the steering locks back some. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What's wrong with the R1 forks quality? :( Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You guys.... Pipercross Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

its amazing the amount of work people will do while still over looking the little things.

What do they call it?! Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol sure sounds good enough Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I paid 200 for the whole assembly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Do we not have one of those or an equivalent? Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn't install the springs to cure clutch slipping or anything like that. I purchased/installed them to fight clutch chatter on high RPM launches. With the factory springs, I could only launch at about 4000 rpms before the clutch lever turned into an on/off switch. The engagement is no harder than it was with the factory springs, but it is much easier to modulate at 8000 RPMs. Stiffer springs will not make the plates wear out any faster, but may shorten the life of the throw out bearing and master cylinder or any other parts exposed to the higher than normal hydraulic pressure. The lever pull effort was dramatically increased, but it is only too much while stuck in traffic. The added clutch feel and high RPM stability was well worth it though. The added spring pressure vs the added master cylinder pressure really helps to stabilize the clutch pack at high RPMs. Also no that I have the radial master cylinder, lever effort has been reduced and feel has further increased.