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CandyRedRC46

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Posts posted by CandyRedRC46

    Rapidbike Evo And Racing Related Questions !

    in Modifications

    Posted

    On 4/13/2018 at 3:47 PM, Cimaj said:

    CandyRedRC46 do I understand good, I can throw away stock o2 narrow band and on it place I can install Bosh wide band with “my tune bike” . Do I have do something more in bike’s electrical wiring?

    Could you tell something more about engine brake, what are good values/settings?

     

     

    Wysłane z iPhone za pomocą Tapatalk

     

     

    I believe what I did was:

    Remove factory narrow bands.

    Installed o2 eminators on the honda harness

    Loop the o2 sensor connections on the Rapid bike harness.

     

    Definitely don't throw your factory o2 sensors away, just in case that doesn't work.

     

    For the engine brake settings, I based my settings on my AFR readings on the Youtune display. Each gear needs slightly different adjustment, but since we do not have a gear input on the VFR harness, I tried to do the best compromise for each gear. I will have to double check my settings, but I think I had it around 50%, so closed throttle deceleration would stay in the 13-14:1 range. You definitely don't want to get much below 13:1 AFR, as you will be wasting gas and far too rich and you don't want to be much above 14:1, as it will not be effective.

     

     

    On 4/14/2018 at 7:45 PM, Stray said:

    Candy, thanks for your thorough, detailed and intelligent response. I really appreciate it - top man! 

     

    Looks like I’ll be getting a My Tuning Bike module from Liam on Monday. I’d love to have 4 but simply can’t justify it for a high-mileage 20 year old ride. 

     

    Curious, would running premium fuel allow an extra degree of advance? I run premium most of the time anyway (keeps the fuel system nice and clean). 

     

    There’s nothing like getting good info from someone who has used and studied the subject matter. 

     

    Thanks again, Candy. 

     

    Stray

     

     

    You're welcome Stray.

    Yeah 4 my tuning bikes is great, but a bit excessive.

    The Rapid Bike Racing ignition maps were created to run on Mid-Premium octane fuel (95 Euro; 91 US). The 5th gen VFR800's ignition mapping is pretty optimized from the factory, so there is not much more ignition advance that can be safely added. If you ran 98, you could maybe add 0.5-1.0 degree of advance on top of the rapid bike base map, but I would only do it while tuning on a dyno, with some means of knock detection and by a professional.

    • Thanks 1

    Rapidbike Evo And Racing Related Questions !

    in Modifications

    Posted

    On 4/6/2018 at 12:52 PM, V4moto said:

    I don't see any reason to ditch the stock O2 sensors just because of age. With less than 20k miles they should have plenty of life left. If the Rapid Bike can produce a good tune with them then that's what I'm interested in. For me part of the attraction of Rapid Bike is the ability to use the stock sensors. I realize that the wide band sensors are better at tuning for large throttle openings but I'm more interested in overall driveability and smaller throttle openings (closed loop fueling).

     

    While the 20 year old o2 sensors could be okay or on their way out, they still will not be anywhere close to as accurate as a new Bosch wide band. Though the difference in tuning a lightly modded vfr could be negligible, so its your call (but it seems like you have already made your decision). A wide band o2 sensor will tune faster and more accurately than the factory narrow bands, at all throttle and rpm positions (Not just large throttle openings). I guess you go this idea from how the Honda ECU only uses the factory narrow band o2 sensors at light/steady throttle, but this is irrelevant, as the narrow bands are disabled to the honda ecu when the Rapid bike is added (Rapid bike will take information from narrow bands at all ranges for tuning its own mapping, but send a steady signal to the honda ecu, so the honda ecu stays in open loop while the rapid bike stays in closed loop. This happens whether using factory narrow the band o2 sensors or the my tuning wide band kit.)

     

    I do understand the gain per dollar argument and just installing a Rapid Bike Evo with no other options or dyno tuning required is attractive and definitely doable on +2000 VFR800's, I am just giving you my opinion on what I would do....

     

    On 4/6/2018 at 7:31 PM, Stray said:

    Description of my tuning bike module says their wide band sensor should be used IN ADDITION to the stock narrow band sensors. 

     

    It may say this on their website, but this is false. I threw away my factory narrow band o2 sensors almost 9 years ago and I am using the Rapid Bike Racing module plus My tuning bike wide band o2 sensors with great success.

     

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    Their wide band should only be used alone on bikes that were not equipped with o2 sensors in the first place. 

     

    This is also false, for reasons that I listed above. (my 2007 vfr800 is running great with no narrow bands and the rapid bike wide bands).

     

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    My ‘98 has no sensors. I’ve been wondering if I should stick one in after the collector for the Rapid Bike Racing module or not. 

     

    Yes this is a good idea. A single wide band o2 sensor in the collector with the My Tuning kit.

     

    Quote

     

    A single sensor is not ideal, however, as the rear cylinders run richer than the front. You’d need a different sensor for front and back. 

     

    You definitely do not NEED separate front and back wide band o2 sensors (literally every single VFR800 that has been dyno tuned, has been tuned with a single wide band down the collector), though you are certainly right, 2 wide bands would be more ideal than one wide band and furthermore, 4 wide band o2 sensors will be more ideal than 2 (I am actually currently using 4 my tuning kits for individual cylinder mapping and it is phenomenal). 

     

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    In the perfect world I’d install 2 wide bands with 2 my tuning bike modules but the cost would be insane. Cheaper option is just to install 2 narrow bands plugged straight into the RBR. 

     

    Stray

     

    Definitely debatable, as everyone's idea of bang for the buck is different, though if you do go the narrow band route, please buy new oem from Honda and not mystery used ebay o2 sensors.

     

    On 4/7/2018 at 6:55 AM, Stray said:

    Thanks Mohawk, I am riding on your coat tails here. Your results with this module are the reason I got interested. Huge debt owed to you, both on this and other mods. 

     

    Like you, I was hoping to mess with ignition advance but it is disappointing to hear your findings that only 3 degrees are available. Is that throughout the entire rev range or does it vary? 

     

    The ignition advance varies. On the Rapid Bike supplied 5th gen ignition map you will see 3 degrees at low throttle/rpms, 2 degrees at medium throttle/rpms and 1 degree at higher throttle and rpms. Honda just did not leave as much on the table on the 5th gens as they did with the 6th gens (which will take 5 degrees advance through the entire low-midrange).

     

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    If memory serves you got the my tuning bike kit with wide band sensors too, yes? 

     

    As mine is a pre-sensor model I was wondering if I could weld two wide band sensors into the downpipe collectors and plug them straight into the Rapid Bike Racing unit WITHOUT the My Tuning Bike module. Will the RBR accept these directly? Hoping to save money here. 

     

    No. The Rapid bike will only accept the factory narrow bands directly or the Bosch wide bands with a my tuning bike module.

     

    Quote

     

    As for saving money, the RBR unit is a poor choice even if moving it from bike-to-bike. The harness alone costs £130 (including tax and shipping). A new PC3 would be about the same! 

     

    Rapid Bike Racing and Power Commander are in totally different classes. Not much of a comparison, but for you 5th gen users, yes the RB Evo and PC are a better bang for the buck and if the buyer is not interested in traction control, launch control, engine braking adjust-ability, closed loop fuel tuning, on the fly fuel trim adjustments etc, the PC would be more cost efficient. 

     

    This is a totally different story on the 6th gens (maybe 8th gen as well), where the race module's added ignition advance totally transforms the bike, with much stronger 2500-8000 rpm torque and throttle response.

     

    On 4/9/2018 at 11:14 PM, V4moto said:

    Thanks for the great information Cimaj. When you say you used the narrow band sensors in pair mode, does this mean that the two sensors work together to generate one map, or one map per cylinder pair? Also curious if you have tried adjusting the engine braking setting. Lastly, does the Rapid Bike harness plug into each injector individually or does it tap into fuel system harness with a single connector?

     

    Cimaj was talking about blocking off the pair valves that inject air into the exhaust ports, as they dilute the exhaust gas and can give an inaccurate AFR reading.

    I have used the Engine Brake feature and it works phenomenally, it really smooths out the on/off throttle transition, where Honda was actually shutting off the fueling for emissions compliance (most prominent in the top three gears above 5000 rpms).

     

     

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

    Front end conversion - was yours worth it ??

    in Suspension

    Posted

    14 hours ago, keef said:

    Because I wanted matching wheels, I have  05 gixxer 600 yokes/stem forks and calipers Gixxer/hayabusa 320mm rotors and an 848 front wheel. With a spacer or 2.

    I want to upgrade to Yamaha monoblock calipers, or newer zx10 calipers.

     

    Though lacking that sweet brembo emblem, the Yamaha calipers are phenomenal.

    Front end conversion - was yours worth it ??

    in Suspension

    Posted

    17 hours ago, Stray said:

    No, I’m going to try fit the complete ZX6R font on. It’s probably easier to change stem bearings and keep everything else from the same donor than mess about with spacers everywhere. 

     

    Oddly enough, calipers are pretty interchangeable among Japanese radial bikes (most have 108mm centres I believe, whereas European bikes have 100mm).

     

    Everything else is a nightmare to swap, primarily because of rotor spacing, bolt pattern and size. 

     

    Got parts coming in bits-and-pieces as couldn’t afford to buy a complete front end in one hit, which would have been the preferred option. 

     

    I think you are exaggerating the spacer "mess", while severely down playing critical specs like fork length/bearing sizing/steering stem length/ride height/fork spacing/offset/rake/trail/etc.

    There is a reason most people stick with the tried and true cbr929 upper and cbr929 or rc51 sp1 lower triple trees.

    Front end conversion - was yours worth it ??

    in Suspension

    Posted

    12 hours ago, Stray said:

    There are are a few threads on here where R1 triples have been used successfully. Was going to go that route because it’s always best to match up all the components in the swap. Piecing it together would have been a pain as CBR triples have different fork gap to R1 and I’d be messing about with spacers to make wheel/calipers/axle/rotors fit. 

     

    But now change of plans - just picked up some Kawasaki ZX6R 2007 radial forks. They were a steal so going to try fitting these. Just need to gather the other bits now (calipers, rotors, triples etc.). 

     

    There are Suzuki, Yam and CBR front ends all over the place but mine might be the first Kwak! 

     

    Stray

     

     

    So you would rather piece together something on the steering stem/bearings, than add disc and axle spacers?

    Front end conversion - was yours worth it ??

    in Suspension

    Posted

    On 12/21/2017 at 4:09 AM, Stray said:

    Hello All, 

     

    I’m after a late model R1 front end (2008-now) to graft onto my 5th gen. Based in England. 

     

    Have posted under classifieds. 

     

    Already have the 6 pot calipers and wheel - now need the rest (triples, rotors, axle and possibly brake master?). 

     

    Lost some money on a set off eBay that we’re destroyed internally. 

     

    Some reasonable eBay listings in US but shipping and taxes make it impossible. 

     

    Can anyone help? Please message if you can. 

     

    Thanks in advance, 

     

    Stray 

     

    Aren't you just going to use the typical CBR929 upper and RC51 Lower triple trees?

    Honda Countershaft Sprockets

    in Modifications

    Posted

    8 hours ago, Lorne said:

    Thanks, John. I was surprised to see that the VTEC used a 16T sprocket and the 5th gen. 800 used a 17T. Then I remembered that one of the changes to the VTEC series was to the transmission gearing. Sure enough, the service manuals show that the VTEC has marginally lower gearing in 3rd through 6th. The result being near identical mph/1000 rpm in top gear. Nice to know that I could swap a 17T into my VTEC and reduces revs on the highway.

     

    I am running 17/43 right now on my 2007 VTEC. It is great on the highway and the speedometer is dead on accurate now. Strong acceleration does require a down shift or two and leaving from a stop in first gear requires a little extra clutch slip if you want to get out in a hurry, but cruising a high speed on the highway all day is so much more relaxed. It will still lift the front tire off the ground when rolling the throttle open in first gear, but it does feel a little lazy around town.

    Factory Pro EVO Shift Star kit

    in Modifications

    Posted

    That may help, but really it is just a factor of the slightly stronger spring, ball bearing wheel and the slightly rounder neutral detents, which are the same factors that make the 1-2 shift quicker and more positive. Its just a trade off, compromise one for the other, trade going fast, for a little more aggravation at stop lights. I am sure the fact that I have rear sets only strengthens this compromise. But I will give that a try. Thanks for the tip.

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