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FJ12Ryder

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Everything posted by FJ12Ryder

  1. Many years ago someone was selling a disc that went in the rear wheel that plugged the center hole. It was simply a VFR emblem and letters. No one knows it's there, but me, but it makes me smile to see it. To me neon/led lights are a shout of "LOOK AT ME, AREN'T I COOL?" I'm a pretty firm believer in subtlety. A whisper rather than a shout.
  2. I think I've seen lights like that on "Pimp My Ride". 🙂 I figure if you post shots of your bike, then you put up with people who won't like what you've done. And you don't whine about it. Yeah, I don't like neon/LED lights on bikes either.
  3. I was thinking the last time I had my countershaft sprocket off, there was a certain amount of lateral play. No rotary movement on the shaft, but the sprocket was free to move a tad on the shaft sideways. We're talking basically just enough movement to feel, and the nut/washer tightened to the shaft, not the sprocket.
  4. Without pulling an engine, or doing an in-depth leakdown test, there's no way to know if a valve is burnt. A burnt valve will still work, just horsepower will be down a bit due to compression being lower. It's not going to self-destruct, so no telling how many high mileage engines have burned valves. The loss of power would be so gradual as to be virtually unnoticeable.
  5. Hi FJ12Ryder, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  6. Very nicely done. It really grabs the eye.
  7. Bought a new battery. When I checked the old one which had been on a Battery Tender, it showed 12.4 V. Put it in, turned the key and nothing. Checked the battery, 12.4 V. Hmmm, checked the battery when I turned the key 0 V. Apparently a bad cell. It woudn't even light a tail light bulb on the bench. So off to Wally World for a new battery. $65 later and I'm back in business. Not sure exactly how old the battery is but got to be 5+ years old. It goes on the Battery Tender in the winter so that probably helps. New front tire is next on the list. Already have it, just need to get it mounted and balanced.
  8. A VFR using oil is a pretty rare breed. Have you had it since new? Did it just start using a little oil? How many miles? What viscosity oil? When was the last oil change? Maybe a slight leak from a not tight enough oil filter?
  9. Check the bearings for smooth operation while the wheel is off. Clean the axle, and I use a little anti-seize on mine before sliding it back in place. I don't use locktite. And it's a good idea while the calipers are off, to check/lube the caliper slider pins. The lube can get pretty solid over time, and not work like it should.
  10. A washer helper is always a great thing. Do you use pipe tape, or pipe dope to keep the air from leaking around the threads? I tried using my MityVac a few times but couldn't stop the air leaking around the threads, and taping all the fittings was just too much of a PIA. But when it works, it is a great tool.
  11. But just imagine how fast he would have been if he'd been all in red. Scary to even think about. 🙂
  12. Okay, I'm done, you obviously don't have anywhere near an open mind and are not willing to discuss without getting very confrontational. I have my opinion, and you have an opinion. They don't agree and I can dig it, but you just can't seem to get along with someone not agreeing with you. So take your hyperbole and I'll go my merry way. I thought you might be open to a discussion, but I was wrong. Have a good one. Maybe see you down the road sometime. I sometimes make it out through Denver.
  13. I've been around motorcycles for many years and watched the industry struggle with noise control issues. Very few companies allow unrestricted intakes due to noise issues, same with exhaust systems. The VFR is a noisy motorcycle due, in part, to it's gear driven cams. I figure the restrictive intake is one of their efforts to lessen the overall engine noise. JMO of course. But I also think Honda put a positive spin on it, just because that's what they do. Have lemons? Make lemonade. Have to restrict air intake for noise purpose? Make it sound like you're doing it for a reason other than that. No, I don't want to discount the information in Chapter 21, but there's only about 2 pages of that chapter that refer directly to the operation of the flapper valve and snorkel. I'm not discounting any of the information in Chapter 21, I'm just saying the info about the flapper valve and snorkel may not be the complete reason. What would be the purpose of explaining that it's there for mostly engine noise abatement. If they said that, the first thing anyone would do is pull it all off. Look at what happens to quiet exhausts. Again, there's lots of good information in Chapter 21, but very little mention/explanation of the flapper valve and snorkel. And the reason there's not very much, is, IMO, because it doesn't really do very much.
  14. From what I read Chapter 21 only serves to "explain" why Honda did what they did. No mention is made of noise reduction, which I believe is the main reason for it. On almost any engine improving air flow to the engine is one of the first things done to improve performance. That, basically, is what removing the flapper valve and snorkel do, allow more, and cleaner, air flow to the throttle bodies. I am curious why you think improving air flow won't help the mid to upper range power. Or is your contention that removing the flapper valve and snorkel won't clean up and increase air flow? Or do you feel the ECU can't compensate for increased air flow? Helping get more air into the engine, is as important as getting the air out of the engine, as with an aftermarket freer flowing exhaust. We may never agree on this, but I don't mind discussing it.
  15. Yeah, that's about it. Removing the flapper valve and snorkel, which is what several of the modifications basically consist of, gets rid of any obstructions to air flow into the airbox. With fewer obstructions to the airflow into the airbox, you could get more air flowing at higher rpm's, possibly resulting in more power at higher rpm's. IMO regardless of the verbiage in the HSM, Honda did the snorkel and flapper valve to help lessen intake noise, and touted it as a "good thing" for power. Maybe, maybe not. Personally I don't think it makes much difference either way...which of course is why I've never messed with it.
  16. I hadn't read the pertinent pages mentioned above, so I got the ol' HSM out and read them. I don't think "counterproductive" is necessarily correct. I also haven't disconnected the snorkel and flapper, just because I've never bothered. From what I read the benefits of the snorkel is very minimal since it is saying that restricting air flow slightly at low speeds will help the smoothness of the power output at slow speeds. So if you remove the snorkel and "flapper lid" or "variable intake duct", you may cause the low rpm response/power output to not be as efficient. But looking at the difference between the snorkel and the "variable intake duct", the difference is pretty minor all in all. To me it's similar to putting a free flowing intake on an engine: you lose some low end, but gain it back, and then some more, at the top end. It's pretty much a non-issue IMO.
  17. 33 mpg for a US bike is pretty horrible, not anywhere near normal. I'd be doing some serious looking into things if my '99 only managed 33 mpg in mixed riding. If I wasn't getting at least 40 mpg I'd be really pissed. Unless you're really getting into it a lot. And running 10,000 rpm more than 5,000 rpm most of the time.
  18. It may be a roll of the dice, but it's like rolling 150 dice and having every single one of them come up 7 in the same roll. Those are odds I can live (HAR) with. Some things I'll take a chance on and Chinese levers are one of those things. And people may have thought it over and consider your opinion not really valid.
  19. I did google "Chinese Levers Crash" and didn't really find much that showed horrible problems. Most of what I found were poor fitting bushings and people not checking to make sure their brakes were working as they should be. Considering how little force it takes to lock up front brakes, I can't see applying the requisite force necessary to actually break the levers. I'm very happy with the ones I have and would buy them again. I'm sure the Pazzo and ASV's are very good.
  20. Interesting, this is from their website: "We manufacture in the UK using single process on multi-axis CNC machining centres, which includes thread rolling." Cool. But wow, are they pricey! Looks like I'll be sticking to steel. After all, steel is real.
  21. Probably, but still look nice, and that's a low load application. Are the spacers/standoffs OEM or did you order them with the bolts?
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