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ohlarikd last won the day on November 22 2013

ohlarikd had the most liked content!

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About ohlarikd

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    Factory Team Rider

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    2007 Honda VFR800 RWB
    2007 Yamaha TTR-50
  1. To be fair, the user manual says to set it to 1200. I still think its too low, but then I think I set it too high at 1800. I edited my statement above. Perhaps it wasn't clear. When Idle is high at 1800, I get the strange 3000 rpm hanging problem. It will just motor along at 3000 rpm down the road with no throttle input. So too high I guess.
  2. Well, I put the IDLE back to 1200. For some reason, [when I set the Idle to 1800] the bike would hang at 3000 RPMs in I think 2nd or 3rd with no throttle input. I guess that little extra air, the fuel mapping, the ECU, FI, etc. all conspire to just not like a 1800 Idle. So - I put it back down to stock 1200 and it rides perfectly now. Well it rides as it was designed. So my 12 page thread turns out to be what everyone told me - a waste of time! :) I can take a beating. At least I know now and can let things be.
  3. The user manual says IDLE should be set to 1200 RPM. For me, that is producing more engine braking than I prefer. Bumping to 1600 really made a difference. I will set back to 1200 and see if the old symptoms come back, or if it was out of sync starter valves. A starter valve or two can be more closed than the others and make more pronounced braking, but I doubt it was initially out that much. They really can't move unless you mean too, and the bike only had 5600 miles on it. And yes, I think I will go have a beer! Thanks
  4. Ok - TBs SYNCED. Idle at 1600 instead of 1200. The bike is awesome! Truthfully, its probably just the increased idle since I can see that it opens up the air tract at 0% throttle a little bit more, reducing vacuum a noticeable amount. I had no idea that is how it could work until I started this adventure. Perhaps the newly synced valves are part of it, but it was probably ok before I started mucking with those. When I first messed with the starter valves willy nilly in my rush to mess with stuff, the IDLE ended up at 2000, which explained why I had almost ZERO engine braking. I will mess around with IDLE settings and see what effects it has on the engine braking. I only had time tonight for a quick shakedown run down the street. Anyway, things are looking UP!
  5. The air box/intake has to come off. Everything is under that - no other way. It's easy, no big deal, but its been apart like that since last week... just waiting.
  6. I am not sure if you are directing this at me or not. My bike is still apart because I have been waiting for the vacuum sync tool which should arrive tomorrow. Once I get it all together, I will mess with the Idle to see if I can reduce this - I think it will work as it makes sense on paper.
  7. I think some of you guys are misunderstanding me. I know I can adjust my riding technique. Its no big deal. I merely asked in the beginning if we could reduce engine braking more to MY liking. I like less engine braking. Is that so horrible? Some of you are quick to pass judgement like I don't know what I am doing. Everyone has preferences in how a bike feels. I like less, you may like it just the way it is. Why is this such a debate?
  8. I clutchless UPshift a lot when having a little fun. But I don't know how to clutchless downshift and I haven't found a reason to yet. The compression happens anyway, but the intake stroke would normally have the butterflies open, so that is a difference. So yes its a compressor, but engine braking can be reduced by opening up the intake tract on the intake stroke and reducing vacuum. There isn't any easy way to open the intake valves during compression since the cam keeps them shut.
  9. and when I don't want it i either slip the clutch a bit or just stay up a gear or two longer, then fan the clutch with a double tap downshift prior to setting up for corner exit... Yes, understood. But in day to day commuting and traffic, I find the excessiveness a bit tiresome and unnecessary. Then again - if my TB sync gauges ever show up, I will re-adjust then re-assess the situation. I think some of you out there are feeling different levels of engine braking for whatever reason, so opinions are varying widely. The way mine is now, based on my experience on all my other bikes, it is RELATIVELY excessive.
  10. I believe the Aprilia Race ECU allows you to change the engine braking. Also Bazzaz and ECU Unleashed so I read. All thanks to ride by wire.
  11. THAT is amazing. I would want to do this, but I really would need the thread from this guy if he ever had one. No need to reinvent the wheel here...
  12. Thanks for the response Mohawk. I ened up buying the 4 gauge unit, it was only $85 shipped. I've always wnated one anyway when I had carbed bikes (still looking for a 1995 CBR 900rr...) I think I will be able to get this running better - I sort of assumed that it was designed this way. We shall see what I can do. I have adjusted my throttle to zero play last year. Along with the G2 throttle, the PCV, and the maps provided on this site, I don't really think much about it anymore. The one thing I did notice when I reduced the engine braking a few days ago was that the bike was much easier to ride. It was not snapping my head forward when I closed the throttle and then snapping it back when I slightly opened it. Made things MUCH smoother. Of course I did it all wrong, but it proved that things could be better if I do it right.
  13. Ah, thought you were on here! Yes, those videos are FANTASTIC! Really opened my eyes. All the parts about 'don't adjust this', well I adjusted :) Since I moved the supposedly non-adjustable reference valve, I put it back to where my photos say it was. Also, the locknut on my wax post was much higher stock than yours in the video. I wonder how that is set at the factory. I put it back to where I had it, but may try it in your position. First, must get valves synced, then I can mess with the other adjustments. Throttle-by-Wire is so helpful in so many ways... I can see why it was done. Too bad no one makes anything for the poor ol' VFR. I watched the Wax Unit video and understand it. Sounds like 1930s technology... That thing should be computer controlled. If it was, it could be opened up on engine braking to control it. If someone could get a servo and plug it into the Power Commander, which is aware of the RPMs, it could detect someone downshifting and open those valves up...
  14. Ok, thankfully I took pictures 'before' I went haywire. Got things back in order using the manual and YouTube (KaldekBock), no more crazy 4000 RPM spike in 1st gear (not sure what that was). Need to order a 4-gauge vacuum gauge to sync, so it will be a few days I guess. Well well, now that I understand how all this works, I can see now why you said turn up the Idle. It directly opens those same valves by pushing on the plate. Live and learn! Once I get them synced again, I will mess with the Idle which should reduce the engine breaking... fine! I get it now :)
  15. I understand how to set all the Starter Valves now, so I will try that. Going to get some vacuum testers and give this a try.
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