YoshiHNS

switching between the stock and finished pics, the tank really makes a huge difference. Stock 4g tank would not have worked at all.

It looks even better in person! And avoid Stewarts at all costs

Why do you need to put an analog pressure gauge there? There wasn't a gauge before, why does the kit come with one (or require one)?

Go look at the thing I rescued. That's way too much. If it's running, clean title, and looks like it was actually maintained in any sort, $800 absolute tops.

If you are doing significant modifications to the bike (AKA track or SF), it saves a ton of space, and 1lb of weight maybe.

Unless you are running too hot, why is it even something you are going to mess with? There's a thread on here about running without one IIRC. So unless you have temp issues or want to relocated it, I wouldn't mess with it, yet.

There are very few of those bikes that I would even want to sit on, let alone own. I'm pretty sure I've seen that mad max VF before, so maybe it isn't even one of their builds. It looks like it's much better done than the rest, so that would suggest so.

Did you test that meat thermometer? I bought one, and it wasn't close to being accurate. When a glass of ice water registered at 24F, it got tossed in the 'not for flight' parts bin.

An actual update. After a few months, I finally have the last parts for the swap. Just have to set a weekend aside to machine the threads and press everything together.

I believe he said he put in a breather line routed to the airbox.

Think you can give a few details on some of those items. The welch plug. I was looking at that when I started the electric water pump conversion, but figured that would be a job for the lathe. Got any info or pictures on it? Anything to reduce machining time is great. For your 848 conversion, did you do the same spacer arrangement I determined? I'm still waiting on those longer drive pins. Oh what I'd do for access to a nice Hardinge. The in tank pump. Was that just a cut and fit? I saw one person who did an FI conversion actually make a separate tank that was just gravity fed from the original and put the in tank pump in there. Sounded heavier and more stuff to hide, but a somewhat simple way around the problem. Why the rear valve cover swap?

Race season just started back up

Is the angle an issue? So the mirror will sit lower. But looking at that picture, the 8g are a fair amount lower than the 6th gen. The angle the mounts are at look to be similar. Difference is the 8g bend down, where the 6th gen go straight. Are those even real pictures of the bikes? Didn't know the 6th gen came with 80/20 tires.

All those features will require a ton of additional sensors added to the bike. For development, a Pi or Beagle would be fine, but you might end up having to design your own board to reduce the footprint and get the layout you need. Good luck with this project. I would suggest to just go with good ole hardware buttons and forget the touchscreen. Maybe not great for address entry, but for a bike it would be much easier to deal with.

I thought fast acting was in terms of fuses. Either the fuse would blow as soon as it was over powered, or it would take a few seconds to blow.

How about our resident drag strip runner give them a shot after he gets his dyno done on everything he has done so far. The bearings are going to be cheaper than a port and polish methinks.

I would be less skeptical about the friction coated ceramics. Not all bearings are created equal. It is a bit hard to imagine that the rotating mass in a bearing is at all significant compared to the rest of the wheel, but friction is friction. Maybe 5HP from switching out the transmission bearings is more likely and not the wheel bearings.

From what I've read, the bearings are still the steel and chrome races with ceramic balls.

Bringing this one back from the dead. Spotthedog posted this up on the VTR250 forum. http://vtr250.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&p=6601&sid=7686ab2ccee614d38d53de4d51975a00#p6599 One of the threads I read is quoted below. I can't remember what I read that netted 5% but that may be optimistic. Fianlly a trusted source has dynoed these gains. Thanks Tommy Micili, a kick-ass drag pilot/builder: http://www.cqcmagazine.com/jul-05/citizen/index.htm "I just did a Ceramic wheel bearing test on a 2007 GSXR 1000 2 days ago. We made numerous pulled on the bike then pulled the rear wheel and replaced the wheel bearings with WWB (World Wide Bearings, Inc) ceramics. The bike picked up just over 3 HP at peak but picked up 6 pounds of torque. This increase is shown through out the entire range. I will have the results up on our website in a couple of days. Here are some results on the same test I did on a 2006 ZX10. http://www.psndealer.com/dealers....ngs.jpg "Both of these bikes had under 100 miles on them. I have also tested these bearing in my stock 2000 Busa which had 10,000 miles on it and the gains were between 4 and 5 HP. I did another test on my busa in which I disassembleld the motor and Microblue coated the internals and put ceramics in the the trans, that mod netted 12 HP. I have dyno sheets on all of my tests and I'm happy to pass them on. PM me if you have any questions. "95% of all Prostock race vehicles in every form of motorsports run ceramic bearings wherever possible. If they didn't work they wouldn't be using them. These guys are the best in the world and they believe in the benefits of Ceramic bearing over conventional bearings. "Microblue is a friction fighting coating that we use on anything that moves. Microblueracing.com is the website. Ask for Craig and tell him I sent you, he can educate you best on these coatings. The bearings are still really pricey. But considering how they are still less than a full exhaust system, it's not that bad for those in the hunt for more HP.

It gives you bearing stack heights, not stem lengths. Right, just bearing dimensions. So it will give you an idea if a different stem even has a chance to fit. Still need to get the stem lengths and compare.

The all balls site has the fork conversion. You look up your bike and it gives the steering head bearing ID, OD, and heights, and those of other bikes that are or are close to the same. It's up to you to figure out which bearings you need to use and decide if it is really going to work.