VIFFER93

Your "Suspension Tube" line is moving SouthWest which moves the "vertical Axle" line back (to the left) but your "neck line" is remaining contant. If you increase your suspension height in the rear, drop your forks further in the stem you will increase the angle of the "neck line" which shortens the "Trail"

Lots more variables involved, - Length and Height of forks (I am not familure with zx-14 specifications) - Length and height of rear suspension ( I raised the rear suspension 10mm ,some have left it stock) - Offset of 929/954 triples compared to OEM - Tire profiles will also affect your suspension settings. Personally, I think a lot of it is taking the time to work out all the measurements because everyone has thier own combination of components. I do not think there is a defined formula.

Having done the fork swap/body conversion to one of my 3rd gens... You are correct.

Be patient and work on mechanicals, specifically your suspension once that is sorted to your liking then work on the cosmetics. Tail and body conversions take time and money because there are hundreds of little things that will come up and slow your progress. I would also wager that it is not less expensive then getting your suspension sorted.

Last ride was today, Snow coming tonight, I guess it is time to start the list... Street VFR: -Oil & Filter -Stabilize fuel -Fog motor -Drain carbs -Clean/lube and inspect chain -Spend some quality time detailing. It is an odd numberspring so that means. -Flush/Replace anti-freeze -Replace all brake/clutch fluids -Inspect/clean calipers if needed -Replace fork oil (tempted to redo the whole suspension this year) Tracken Viffer -Oil & Filter -Fog motor -Drain carbs -Clean/lube and inspect chain -Spend some quality time detailing. -Finish Painting Body work -Fabricate new aluminum sub frame -Rear sets Wish list - Air box modifications - Rear hub converson - Undertail/ Hi Mount exhaust mods.

Sweeeeett! Forks Swap :cheerleader: Fork Swap :cheerleader: Fork Swap....

NIce work, lots to appreciate. With regards to your guages. Many of the Honda analog guages can have their parts swapped out. I took the tach mechanisim out of my 93 cluster and bolted it into a 86 VFR700 case and it is perferct so if you found a set of guages that fit better you obviously have the skills to swap out the guts so everything is accurate... Bigger brakes... I am hearing the grumbling of another forks swap...

take/retake an MSF course or private rider safety course. Some track day groups will offer entry level instruction for track days and this is never a bad thing. The riding school I work for offers beginner sessions and encourages people who just obtained their motorcycle license to try it. It is not "racing" school or about being fast, you get 20 min on the track with some 1:1 instruction, 20 min classroom instruction and a 20 minute break. It is a great day and you will build your confidence/skills.

I checked out the gallery and list; were you able to use the stock R1 axle with the extra space between the forks? How did the rotors line up on the R6 wheel, did they have to be spaced as well? The R1 axle worked fine, it is 4mm short which It sounds like a lot until you see it. You could adjust the rotors or the calipers, I added washers to the caliper bolts to move them in and line up with the rotors. I went with the R6 rim because the rotor size (300mm) matched the rotor and axle size of the '00 R1 and I wanted a 5 spoke rim.

Let us know what you come up with for the oil radiator, I'm still struggling with that part... I moved the mounting point for the oil cooler out/forward on my fairing stay and bought bulk oil cooler lines (NAPA) and cut then cut to the size I needed. The lines have just enough bow in them to make it around the forks nicely. I just used hose clamps to mount the oil lines on the OEM oil barbs but most NAPA store should be able to make the same type of fitting found on the OEM Honda lines.

This is combination is pretty much exactly what I did with mine, I am happy to answer questions as you move along. When looking for R1 parts do not forget to look at certain R6 parts (wheels) because they can be interchanged and some times can be less expensive... if your lucky.

I looked at this option when I did my conversion. I know the R1 triples/stem will not match to my 3rd generation, I even looked into swapping out the stems from the R1 to a 929 but you had to do some machine work to make it happen and it was cheaper to fab the spacers required. The R1 off set is also 4mm (2mm each side) narrower then the 929/954/RC51 stems so you can not use a Yamaha upper/lower with a Honda upper/lower Here is the link to my Gallery and list of what I have used for parts. The only update is I bought Woodcraft clipons and did a VTR1000 clutch master conversion.

Nice work. One small thread in this forum can not account for all the time and thought a person puts into a project like this. Congratulations on getting to this stage. :fing02:

. The 5G '98-'99 manual lists the same clutch bore size, 14mm. I've been running an RC51 clutch master for years w/out any issues. This is good. I might give it a try because I have one available but for brakes I think it is much more important to make sure you have things match.

Perfect! That clutch master will work...... It also looks like after 2004 they switched to the "coffin" style. Thanks Mr. Matt Super Hawk Clutch specs... Clutch master Cylinder specs - Clutch Master ID - 14.OOO - 14.043 (0.5512 - 0.5529) Clutch Master OD - 13.957 - 13.984 (0.5495 - 0.5506) http://www.superhawk996.net/Honda_VTR1000F_Service_Manual.pdf

Cylinder bores must match for brakes and clutch. As far as a hydrolic clutch goes the slave cylinder "ratio" must be compatable as well. I am looking into doing a clutch resevoir conversion but I have not had the time to track down what will work. As far as the brake resevoir goes. Personally, I would wait and decide if you are going to do a front end swap. That will dictate what your braking "system" will be and you will be able to plan accordingly. But on the 3rd (I believe they are the same as 4th generation) specs are as follows per the service manual. Brake masters are (mm/inch) ; Master cylinder ID = 12.700-12.743 (0.5000-0.5017) - Master Cylinder OD = 12.657-12.684 (0.4983 - 0.04994) Clutch Master are (mm/inch) ; Master cylinder ID = 14.000-14.043 (0.5512-0.5529) - Master Cylinder OD = 13.957-13.984 (0.5495 - 0.5506) I was hoping to use an RC51 clutch master I have but the RC51 master is smaller then the VFR version.

Beautiful work and thinking things out. If this was easy everyone would be doing it, go go go. I am going through this process now myself and appreciate the time and attention you are applying.

Ebay? Though they can get pricey quickly. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?app=forums&module=post&section=post&do=reply_post&f=62&t=61350&qpid=720423