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snowparang

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Posts posted by snowparang


  1. Latest readings are as below. All done without headlights on.

    Readings with the R/R disconnected:

    Battery voltage with bike off = [12.6v]

    Voltage with bike at idle = [12.42v]

    Voltage with bike at 5k RPM = [11.30V]

    AC voltage from stator at idle (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [2-3 vac]

    AC voltage from stator at 5k RPM (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [3-4 vac]

    Readings with the R/R connected:

    Battery voltage with bike off = [12.6 V]

    Voltage with bike at idle = [12.42 V]

    Voltage with bike at 5k RPM = [12.39 V]

    Voltage at R/R output at idle = 12.18 V

    Voltage at R/R output at 5k rpm = 12.10 V

    AC voltage from stator at idle (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [2-3 VAC]

    AC voltage from stator at 5k RPM (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [3-4 VAC]

    Well, it seems my stator is the one causing all the trouble. Is there any possible causes? Will loose wiring cause such a discrepancy?

    And more bad news...my local dealer do not have stock of the stator! sad.gif

    Anybody used the Electrosport ones, are they any good? - http://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_e...cal_honda1.html

    Or are there compatible alternatives (other Honda models? Yamaha? Suzukis?)?

    After recieving all the help here, I think it's only right for me to update. Btw, mine's a y2k 5th Gen.

    I've ascertain that my stator is bad, and hence ordered an Electrosport one from somebody selling it off in this forum and (after hearing all praises) decided to get one from Ricks too. Here are the 2 stators:

    medium.jpg

    Funny, it seems the Electrosport ones is narrower than the one from Rick's. Which one is correct though?

    medium.jpg

    Then I open up my alternator and took out the old coil. I guess this is what you could call 'burned'. Anybody knows what can cause this?

    original.jpg

    Comparing thickness of alternator. The one from Rick's is of the correct dimension. I'll be keeping the Electrosport's one as a spare I guess. Anybody who had used Electrosport's stator coil can confirm that I got the correct coil?

    medium.jpg

    medium.jpg

    Next, some readings with the new coil:

    Bike at 2500 rpm: 14.68V

    Bike at 5000 rpm: 14.68V

    Stator AC voltage - 24VAC - 67VAC form idle to 5000 rpm

    Voltage drop from batt positive to R/R black wire (voltage sensing): 0.287V (which fail the <0.2V requirement from Electrosport's fault finding guide).

    Hence I wire the black sensing wire directly to the battery positive and obtained:

    Bike at idle: 13.4V

    Bike at 5000 rpm: 14.2V

    I guess that's good news...until you guys are now debating the credibility of doing the black wire mod! Drats, I've already cut the wire from the harness side...


  2. The black wire does not have to be switched, but you do have to remove it from the harness and break the connection from the factory harness. If you don't pull the somehow break the connection from the factory harness ( either cut the wire or pull it out of the white r/r connector ) it will send 12v backwards into your ignition allowing the bike to stay running even if you turn the key off.
    Hmm...Just a thought. If I send a 12V supply from this black lead I could not shut down the bike but can I start the bike? Can I use this method if I somehow lost my keys? Will this bypass the HISS security?

    Secondly, if I connect the black sensing wire from the R/R to the battery positive, isn't that as good as connecting it to the R/R red output? Since both of these all ended up at the battery positive.

    original.jpg


  3. Horror stories from electro sport products. Try Ricks products,

    http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

    then read this thread to see his work.

    Rick's stator

    The good thing about rick's is he is cheeper than OEM, and offers a 1 yr warranty. He also uses higher quality wire that is more resistant to heat and stress that a MC engine provides.

    I can't speek for sure, but I doubt that there will be a compatiable stator.

    Thanks for the info again! I've email Ricks. A slight problem will be that I'm in Singapore, so I have to ship my burnt stator to him for rewiring. And then get it shipped back. Hopefully Rick carries OEM replacement for stators too.

    Well,, my VFR is my only form of transport..except for the Aprilia RS250 which is in project state. Was hoping to ge it fixed within a week...but fat hope I guess. Who would guess the parts dealer here has no stock of that item! (90% of motorcycles in Singappore are japan made, and 50% of that are Hondas.)

    Anybody has a spare working stator let me know!


  4. Latest readings are as below. All done without headlights on.

    Readings with the R/R disconnected:

    Battery voltage with bike off = [12.6v]

    Voltage with bike at idle = [12.42v]

    Voltage with bike at 5k RPM = [11.30V]

    AC voltage from stator at idle (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [2-3 vac]

    AC voltage from stator at 5k RPM (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [3-4 vac]

    Readings with the R/R connected:

    Battery voltage with bike off = [12.6 V]

    Voltage with bike at idle = [12.42 V]

    Voltage with bike at 5k RPM = [12.39 V]

    Voltage at R/R output at idle = 12.18 V

    Voltage at R/R output at 5k rpm = 12.10 V

    AC voltage from stator at idle (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [2-3 VAC]

    AC voltage from stator at 5k RPM (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [3-4 VAC]

    Well, it seems my stator is the one causing all the trouble. Is there any possible causes? Will loose wiring cause such a discrepancy?

    And more bad news...my local dealer do not have stock of the stator! sad.gif

    Anybody used the Electrosport ones, are they any good? - http://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_e...cal_honda1.html

    Or are there compatible alternatives (other Honda models? Yamaha? Suzukis?)?


  5. Still didn't answer the question, 3vac where? Idle? 5k rpm? somewhere else? If you had a rough idle, it may be that low on its own at idle.
    I see. the values are as below. Will update the reading of the last value later.

    Battery voltage with bike off = [12.6v]

    Voltage with bike at idle = [12.6v]

    Voltage with bike at 5k RPM = [12.5V]

    AC voltage from stator at idle (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [2-3 vac]

    AC voltage from stator at 5k RPM (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [pending]


  6. Hi guys,

    I've read all the post on this thread but couldn't find what I need regarding the charging problem on my bike.

    Firstly, I'm riding a 5th gen Y2K VFR. A couple of days the batt went dead and a quick voltage check at the batt terminal with the bike running only registered 12.4V. And revving the engine does not bring about any increase, which means 12.4V is the actual voltage of the battery ALONE, without any charging system.

    So I bought a new battery and a new R/R and swap both parts. Problem is, there is still no charging!

    It's possible the new R/R that I bought is faulty, hence will like to ask:

    a. How to check the R/R? If I connect the 3P natural connectors with the yellow wires to the bike and start the bike, should I get 13V and higher between the red/white and green cable? Or does the R/R function only when a +12V is applied onto the white/black wire? Picture attached to show what I'm talking about.

    Measured the voltage produced at the red/white and green cable, about 7V on my old (asume dead) R/R and only 4V on my new R/R! Am I doing something wrong here?

    gallery_11419_2992_36241.jpg

    b. Assuming it's my stator that's roasted, how do I confirm that? I've done the continuity checks and earth leakage checks as suggested by the manual and all turn out pretty fine. With the bike running, the AC voltage as measured from the yellow cables on the wire harness side reads between 2.8-3.2 vac.

    c. Is there any way to damage a R/R by simple connecting it?

    Thanks!

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