Tightwad

I have updated my website to include the pictures that were originally posted here. The biggest difference is I no longer cover the ground wires as I had feedback that it was too hard to stash the wiring with the extra bulk (and there really isn't a need for it). You can see the pictures here: VFRness: http://www.wiremybike.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_4&products_id=270&osCsid=5e1672bbebc6c63ebef178cc5a4f272f VFRness Bundle (same pictures): http://www.wiremybike.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_4&products_id=271&osCsid=5e1672bbebc6c63ebef178cc5a4f272f Install is the same nearly for a 1998-1999 as well, just the connectors are different, and there is no relay.

I believe the entire body of the R/R is a ground. I don't think it is important to have the RR body grounded, the units I bought thru Tightwad weren't internally connected to ground for instance. The mounting bolts will ground the RR body anyway. What is important is to connect the green wire from the Vfrness to a good grounding point and to have the RR body as snugged up to the metal of the frame as is possible even using heat transfer grease to eliminate air pockets. Some computer heat transfer compounds are full of metallic particles, I don't think that expense is warranted, we used to simply use silicone grease before the white gunk became available many moons ago. Although this part of the frame gets warm from engine and exhaust heat, it is still much cooler than the internals of the RR can reach when in full bore (there was a recent post where this was elaborated to its full extent). The idea is to shunt this potential heat out to the frame as best as possible and keep the electronic bits inside at least as 'cool' as the bike frame, a computer fan may or may not assist but it sure satisfies that niggle in one's mind about doing all one can! Mike Very well said!

If anyone finds a source for these plugs, and would like one built, I would be willing for the stateside guys...but I don't have a source for the plug, and the picture given is not very legible unfortunately. Nice work tho!

This is above my pay grade! I don't think it would work however, as we need the higher RPM. Controlling the output of the stator is how a Series regulator works...like the Compufire units. Shunt type regulators dump the excess to ground. I asked Rick about going Series with the R/R's they (and I) sell, and he says the new MOSFET version have been so good they have no plans to retool to a more expensive Series version.

Indeed, thank you Chaz. Yes, I have the R&G kit on mine and it looked like the Radar mounts were poking out of the same location which peaked my interest. Sorry, I missed this question. Radar used to offer them in Red, my replacements are black :(

I wanted to give this topic a bump since it took me a bit of searching to find it. Good writeup on the install...question for Anik however...did you have to trim the tabs on the bulb for it to fit?

nice finale to the comparison, i enjoyed reading them. My pro-oiler has been great, and hasn't leaked a drop, so I am pleased.

Yes, this could be done. Let me know if you want one.....and whether you prefer to be shocked or just nudged....

If you do compare to the Darth Bling mounts, please adjust for shorter people...I find my mirrors have to be tweaked as far as possible for me to see out of them, and the light isn't parallel with the ground.

I think it is silly to argue about whether it will work…let the tests prove it…and then argue about the testing methodology. Throwing insults around is useless and won’t do anything but create ill will.

I am by no means a scientist…but I do love the theory and discussion. One thing I keep hearing is that “you can’t get as much work out as you are putting in”….I understand this theory, and it is true in every case I have seen tested, but I think the point of it all is that we aren’t currently at a 1:1 ratio of effort to work, and thus there is room to improve the ratio without violating any laws of physics. The effort to distill the HHO is a perfect example….why worry about the work involved to distill it as long as it doesn’t require a charging system upgrade (which would draw more power)? If he gets 1 verifiable MPG more, without power loss, it will be a success. People are willing to run gas additives that claim the same thing…what’s the difference? My thoughts on how to verify the upgrade I still stand behind…if you are adding HHO AND a Powercommander, you have to test them individually…otherwise you have no proof that the additional power and/or MPG changes are HHO related and not PC related, right?

It would be easy to tell if the Stator caused more work when under a load...check the HP output with and without a huge load applied. As part of the testing it would make sense to dyno tune it as best you can on just gas, and measure the HP. Then hookup the HHO setup, but only the generation part, and measure the HP, then connect the HHO gas and tune it the best you can and measure again. The difference between reading 1 and 2 would be the additional work the Stator might be doing...lost HP if any. The difference between 1 and 3 would be the benefit (or lack of) of using the HHO.

Wow....long list! Did you do the paint yourself? Did you really paint the mirrors twice? Bike looks awesome...hard to believe the miles on it now!

The standard Datel meters are water resistant, and hold up pretty well.

The issue would be getting them to cover the repair/replacement of said unit if the bike took a tumble...there is exposed hardware that would certainly be damaged by a slide on the right side. I would assume coverage for accessories would be enough, but that is an additional cost.

The exhaust stud in the head? The ones on my bike were not hardend studs, at least the new ones weren't. I used a super small drill bit to drill a center hole, then a slightly larger bit, then I used a 3/16th left hand drill bit....bought a set of 4 from Harbor Freight and long ago broke the 1/8th bit or I would have used that. Prior to drill I soaked it multiple times in PB Blaster to try and loosen it up if needed. I then center punched the stud, then used my 1/16th bit, then a 1/8th bit, then the left hand bit. The left hand bit didn't even go that far into the stud before it started catching and backed it out.

Negative... Honda great cam shaft crisis wasn't mfg/materials... Honda's great cam shaft crisis was the result of a factory cost cutting measure... they choose to mill the cam bearing blocks separately... there was no matching of components... consequently the cam bearing blocks were not line bored with the head... if the tolerances happened to add up... the cam will flop about in the head.. you'll notice the edge of the cams fail first... a sure sign the cam shaft tilted and was allowed to strike the follower at an angle... this also explains why some cams go 100K while other only 20K... Isn't this the definition of using poor MFG/Materials? instead of line boring they milled the blocks in parts....

So all that Carbon buildup may not be a bad thing?

The Stator doesn't rotate, or the wires would get snarled up, the Rotor rotates. Not sure what you could do to lighten the Rotor.

Another plug for Keith at Mason City Honda. While I may not buy the parts to repair the valve damage I suffered, his prices for the parts came in under $200, vs $241 from Service Honda. I even spoke with his tech about what to do with my head and he suggested buying a new bare head over having mine rebuild. $560 for the head brand new.

What is different on the 06+ models for the map by gear? Do the have a gear indicator built in? I have been looking at building one for my bike (for fun), but didn't know if the later VFRs were different than my 02 in that regard.

There was a diagram of the 2002+ model, but it works under a different premise slightly. Essentially you have it correct, there is a 10 gauge wire from the R/R that goes to an inline heavy duty fuse holder. The is a wire that Y's off the 10 gauge that goes to the Starter Relay, where the original Red/White wire was. The other portion goes directly to the battery.

The entire charging system on the 90-97 models essentially runs through the 14 gauge wire in the starter relay. This leads to burned up starter relay connections when the connection gets less than ideal...it happens so often my kit includes the Starter Relay Connector repair kit I also sell seperately. I duplicated the path to the battery, with a second fuse. This 10 gauge wire leads to much more stable charging, and no more melting down the starter relay connection. No connections are made to the ignition switch...just the Red/White wire in the starter relay.

The 3rd and 4th gen VFR has a 5 pin plug, with 3 smaller stator connections and the larger power and ground connections below them. If the R/R doesn't have this connection, then someone has spliced an R/R from a different model in. The wires from the R/R plug go about 24" to another connection, where the stator wires come to from the stator.

The VFRness for the 750 is different from the rest in that it doesn't T into the charging circuit, but actually replaces a good bit of it...see the thread linked in my signature for more details, and you can find it on my website of course....but better data and pictures are compiled here on this great site. Joshua