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About zam70

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    Local Racer
  • Birthday 10/13/1965

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    Virden, IL

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  1. WOW - I haven't been back for awhile - lloks like this thread has taken on a life of its own (over 11,000 views!) Thanks Tightwad for coming up with a plug and play harness...makes it easy for the masses. Glad to see this has helped out so many!
  2. I just picked up a new-to-me 1990 with low miles. All lights flickering slightly on my first night ride so I checked voltages and would you believe 18V at 5000RPM??? All this talk of the mods to the newer bikes is interesting, but I'm with Banshee: How do I get my 5 wire RR to put out less voltage? Thanks. If you have to much voltage, your regulator or sensing wire is bad...usually, the regulator is bad and needs replaced.
  3. GREAT - I find that the stability is the best part of this. I always read about the voltage varying so much from one extreme to another...it just didn't make sense. A few tenths, ok but over a volt? No good. Thanks for your assistance with the diagrams. it'll be intersting to see a large # of results.
  4. THANKS - for putting that up...helps clarify things... I personally didin't do the ground jump to the main ground but, it sure can't hurt (never to much!) Good point on the fuses as well. SO, what were your end results? EVERYONE ELSE- post up your before after results so we can verify this is a solution for a long running problem.
  5. OK - went back in today and installed fuses in line on the new wire (thanks for catching that!) Just for fun, I started the bike and measured the voltage before putting the fuses in the new holder (basically, running the bike with the new ground wires still intact but the new RR power leads disconnected). I was curious to see how much the new charge leads actually improved things. measured voltage = 13.3/13.6 (new grounds, no new charge lead) voltage was a little unstable I then dropped the fuses in place and voltage went up to 14.3 immediately, then settled at 14.6 (I think the stator was under load - I had not ran the bike all week, no batt tender). So - the new charge leads absolutely improve the situation. anyone done this yet w/full pics. (i'll know next time to take them...)
  6. Sorry...I have a good knowledge of electrical and always take it for granted everyone does...my mistake. I don't always play things safe on my own stuff... When I did this, it was basically for myself - after seeing the results, I decided to post up what I did and the results (since this seemed to be an on going problem concern) to share with others. I never intended this to be a detailed tech "how to" therefore, I never took any pics and didn't post all of the specific fine details. Maybe someone else will snap some step by step pics if/when they do this. I could type up a more detailed description w/pics if needed If you're not comfortable with the mod, I would suggest not doing it. As far as bypassing the main fuse - this was admittedly an over sight - a fuse or fuses would be a good idea. The connector at the battery is plenty heavy to pass the current this system provides.
  7. I understand what your saying at it is a very good point... Since you have the diagram at hand, what does the OEM 30amp actually interrupt that is not protected @ the fuse panel? Just curious. If it is just the charge lead to the battery, I wouldn't worry about it. That would mean the 30 amp fuse is protecting the originall RR wires. Like I said, if it's something that concerns you, fuse each additional lead individually...it's a good idea, just not something I did.
  8. It does by pass the fuse...you could add one...but I would put one in each wire individually. IF there is a short that could cause a problem, it would have to be in that 8" piece of wire. Highly unlikely really. If it's in another area, the OEM fuse will take care of that. If you wreck bad enough to cause a short in that wire, I think the wire will be the last thing you need to worry about. In all actualities, the wire will actually function as a fuseable link if no fuse is used. If it's something that worries you, add a fuse in line Majority (possibly all) of OEM auto manufacturers DO NOT use a fused charge lead - no reason to really. I would just add the wires. It will keep the charge leads as short as possible and maintain the OEM wire routing for the original wires. IF the original wires coming of the reg simply go straight to the battery (and are short) replaceing them out of the plug would be fine but the wire would have to be completely replced from the reg to the battery to be most effective. Doubling up both of the wires and hooking directly to the battery maximizes the charge potential. If the RR only has the single lead going to the battery for charge THAT is the major problem in the system.
  9. BINGO - what I did basically does both. Shortens the length and increases the gauge of wire used (yes, multiple small gauge = large gauge) I think the main problem is the initial length ran in the OEM wiring prior to reaching the battery & fuse block. ???????????? --------> DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE THE OEM ENGINE GROUND CONNECTS? I would like to tackle that next.
  10. I left the OEM wires intact because: A ) it gives you more wire potential to hook it all together...it's not hurting anything, just inadequate B ) Not to upset the original OEM wire integration just in case it mattered...if it does, I'm safe, it it doesn't then nothing hurt. I think you should at least double up your wires...age old rule concerning wiring: You can never have to much. Another possible problem...I think the OEM runs the RR wires to the starter THEN it distributes from there. You have essentially reversed that (batt first, than starter) not sure if it matters, but, it could.
  11. Actually - this applies to any thing.... I go over the wiring on every thing I own... I have yet to find something it hasn't helped...cars are worse than bikes but not as sensitive because they have a larger charging system. On a bike, you need all you can get
  12. WOW – I didn’t expect this kind of response but, I’m glad to help…. MR PHEER – I know you from the VTXOA board (zam70 there too) you and your praise of the VFR, is one of the reasons I started to look seriously at a VFR (bought a 99 2 weeks ago…) To answer a few questions: -Dialetric grease can be purchased @ auto zone (it is located with the RTV) -Silicone heat sink grease can be purchased @ Radio Shack (use on the RR to solidify the RR to the frame) NO OEM wires were cut or interrupted. The new wires are supplemental to the originals. All connections to existing wires were made with a “button hook†method to preserve the integrity of the OEM wires. I metered all wires to verify their path prior to doing this… I prefer the button hook method for larger wires since they take a lot heat to solder properly (usually damages the insulation). Button hook = strip an area of insulation appx ½â€+ long off & completely around an existing wire so you have a bare section in the wire. Then open up a hole in the bare section (I use an awl or small screwdriver and poke it through the center of the bare section and open it up. Strip back a good portion of the new wire…1†– 1 ½†should do for 12 ga…you’ll know how much when you do it. Thread the new wire through the hole in the existing wire, then wrap it around the bare area cinching the hole closed…keep tightly wrapping the new wire around the bare section until the entire bare section is covered – keep it neat & tight and cut off any excess. cover the connection with tape or shrink wrap if possible. To common 2 wires – you simply hook the new wire through 2 existing wires cinching them together. -I connected the RR ground at the frame to avoid having to much crap at the battery. -I connected (button hook) the additional charge leads from the RR to the main batt cable right before the OEM terminal to avoid to many connections on the batt bolt. .
  13. NOPE - did that too...(you can buy it @ Radio Shack) I also (to aid cooling) drilled 4 holes right in front of the RR, not sure if it'll help, but sure can't hurt. I'll try to snap some pics and get them posted. ALSO - you can get dielectric grease @ autozone (it's located with the RTV)
  14. A short history: I spent 15 years of my life designing and building high aperage electrical systems for automotive applications. I learned that in order for a charging system to work properly, things have to be solid, clean and over sized... So I bought my 99 VFR a couple of weeks ago...upon arriving home, gave the bike a good going over. Reading about all of the charging gremlins the VFRs have, I decided to check out the electrical system. When I measured the voltage, I found the voltage output was way to high at higher RPM and to low at low RPM...pulled the regulator, found a hole burnt in the back of it with a solder trail coming out...DOA reg. I called the dealer where I bought the bike told him the problem - he gave me a new regulator no charge (the updated one even). After installation, things were better but, I felt the voltage was still on the low side and unstable. I went to work cleaning and updating all the charge wires... (My apologies if all of this has been posted before) First thing I did was pull all connectors apart and check them for coorosion or burning (none - all was fine) and give them a dot of grease. next I cleaned all OEM ground points and reassembled with lithium grease. Voltage came up some but, not what I considered acceptable and it was still unstable. #1 - I ran an additional 8 gauge ground from the battery neg to the connection on the frame (right side with the green wires, not at the brake valve) #2 - I ran an additional 12 gauge ground from the new ground point to the regulator ground and commoned them (green wires on the reg plug) #3 - I ran 2 additional 12 gauge wires from the Batt positive to the regulator charge output wires (red & red white) fired the bike up and BINGO - 14.6 volts, rock solid...@ all RPM w/brights on My take: The OEM charge & ground regulator wires are to long & to small (for the length the run)... Next, I'm thinking of upgrading the actual stator wires...for now, I think I'll just ride awhile.
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