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About RRW

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  • Birthday 06/08/1954

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  • Location
    Whetstone, Arizona
  • In My Garage:
    2008 CBR1000RR
    2006 VFR800
    2003 XR400
    1973 Suzuki GT750
    1978 GL1000
    2003 TTR125
    1969 CB450
  1. No doubt about this one. Gonkulator bearing support bracket.
  2. You should have spent your time inventing a bucket and a sponge so you could wash that poor thing. :goofy:
  3. RRW

    Low/no Cost Farkles

    You California guys sure are comfortable with substituting (insert favorite inanimate object here) for women whenever you feel the need for...ummmm...shall we say..."adventure", aren't you? :goofy:
  4. Okay, everyone is proud of their new Staintunes and custom paint jobs, and rightfully so. But let's see what kind of stuff you came up with for little or no money that improved the comfort, appearance or just made your bike easier to live with. Here's my weather proof registration and insurance card holder I made from a cut down tube a gun barrel came in. You can buy these at hardware stores too, but free is always better and good for 5 hp. I used some parachute cord I have to make a lanyard and some kind of goop in a tube to glue the cord to the tube. The other end I put around the brake line and super glued the ends together. If the tube should come off the velcro I stuck to the frame, it doesn't get lost. Just stick some velcro to the frame and the tube and you're done. I thought this up because no one wants to think about taking their seat off when you have a ton of stuff strapped down while you are loaded up on a trip, and carrying your paperwork in your wallet is not very weatherproof. It's also darn near invisible unless you know it's there. Has your 6th Gen got balls? These are the balls that are on the handles of tools like drill presses and such. They also make a cheap frame slider that will protect your tail piece and exhaust pipe in the event of a tip over. Balls and button headed cap screws are $11 at Ace. I had to drill the hole in the foot peg bracket out to 1/2", but that was only slightly bigger than the hole that's already there. Let's see whut ya thunk up. Cheap is good. Free is the cat's azz :goofy:
  5. It looks great. What technique did you use to fill the hole where the signals were? Did you epoxy a patch to the back side?
  6. I believe it is around $250-$300 for a full customized mapping on a dyno. The mapping was basically free for me since I won a raffle drawing to be redeemed at Las Vegas DynoTech and I used it for the custom mapping since I needed it. I was in Las Vegas last month and didn't win a damn thing! :biggrin:
  7. Thanks for the write up and be sure to post the map. Too bad you weren't able to do a before/after mods comparo. I wonder what the dyno figures would have been before axing the pair valve and adding the after market pipe and PCIII. Your custom map is adding a total HP gain of 2.16, all of it above 8500. Torque increase is .6 ft lb, most of it also above 8500RPM. Every little bit helps, but I would imagine the smoothed out power delivery and the 26 lb diet (almost 5% :mellow: ) is most of what your seat-o-the-pants-o-meter is feeling. I am curious as to what a dyno tuning session for the PC III costs.
  8. I don't think the hole looking for a purpose is for a stand. It's in the stamped steel bracket the brake hoses are all bolted to. It's only about a 3/16" hole too. The lights don't hit the fender, but I have adjusted the bracket some since I took the pictures. The lights are higher and a little farther back than the picture. But the lights shine through the space between the gauges and the handle bars somewhat. I think that may be annoying at night. I'll have to shield or paint the top of the lenses if it's a distraction.
  9. In anticipation of my upcoming road trip to Las Vegas, almost half of it in the dark to beat the heat, I bought a set of small driving lights. I found a pretty spiffy way of mounting them without any permanent mods to the bike and they are practically invisible until you turn them on. Another plus is they are attached to the lower triple tree, so they point where the wheel does, unlike the stock lights in the fairing. Using a relay and tapping into the HI beam switched wire, the driving lights only come on when the HI beams are on. I plan on installing a toggle switch later to allow me the option of disabling them completely if I want to. The electrical wiring configuration described is temporary until my BlueSea fuse box and weatherproof toggle switch arrive. If you plan on using this configuration permanently, I recommend you seal all the connections with silicone sealer to weather proof them. Materials: 12 inches of 1 1/4" x 1/8" steel (Home improvement or hardware store) 1 Set Platinum Burners Series 55W halogen driving light kit: Model QH-88CD (Wal-Mart) 1 ea 30 Amp Auto Relay (Radio Shack PN: 275-226) 6 ea bolts with nuts and washers 6mm threads 1 ea 1/4" bolt with Nylock nut and washers Blue Lock-Tite Spray paint (optional) 3 small zip ties 1. I fabricated a simple bracket from 1 1/4" x 1/8" steel. It's available at any home improvement or hardware store. I cut two pieces. Each is 5 1/4" long. One piece is bent into a Z shape. Bend the piece at 1" and bend it in the opposite direction 1 3/4" from the other end. The short end has one hole drilled in it to attach it to the hole in the brake line bracket attached to the bottom of the lower triple tree. The long end of the bracket has two holes drilled in it. They are to attach second piece of the brace at a 90 degree angle. 2. The second part of the brace is just a straight piece with six holes drilled in it. Drill two holes in the middle to attach it to the long end of the Z brace. I placed the light brackets on each end, marked their location, and drilled two holes for each light. 3. Assemble the bracket you made and the brackets that come with the light kit. Put the lights in their brackets with the wires pointing up. You will have more adjustability if you have the wires pointing up. 4. Now the fun part. While standing on your head, look up into the darkness above the front fender in the middle of the brake lines and you will see a hole looking for a purpose in life. Place the bracket against bottom of the triple tree and put the 7/16" bolt through the hole. Now with your slender and dainty fingers, start the nylock nut from the top side and tighten everything up snug. Using an adjustable wrench, grab the bracket and bend and twist until the lights are level from left to right. Bend the bracket down in the front to ensure it doesn't hit the oil cooler. Be sure you turn the wheel from lock to lock to make sure nothing is rubbing. When you are satisfied that the lights are straight, level and not hitting anything , remove the bracket from the bike. 5. Disassemble everything and paint the bracket pieces you made. After the paint has dried, reassemble the bracket using blue Lock-Tite on the bracket bolts as well as the bolts that attach the kit brackets. Do not use Lock-Tite on the screws that attach the lights to their brackets or you won't be able to adjust them later. 6. Reattach the bracket on the bike as you did in Step 4. 7. Remove the left side main fairing to provide access for the electrical work to be performed. 8. The light kit comes with enough wire to wire the space shuttle. I cut the wire to length and used the factory supplied connectors on the uncut end. 9. The relay will be used to provide switched 12V via the HI beam light switch. I mounted the relay using the screw on the left side front turn signal. 10. The voltage to switch the relay on/off was obtained using an in line tap connector on the blue wire located in the middle of the plug coming from the handle bar Hi/Low beam switch. The voltage on the blue wire is switched on and off by the handle bar switch. The other end of the wire goes to the relay terminal 86 (on/off switch.) 11. The light kit comes with a white wire with a Y connector on one end. Plug the white wire from each light into the Y. The other end goes to the relay terminal 30/51 (12V out) This will provide 12V to the lights. 12. I used a couple of the black wires in the kit to extend the black ground wires on the lights back to the bolt on the left side of the frame where the fairing bracket and wire loom are attached. I ran both white wires into one ring terminal and attached it to the frame. 13. I used the provided fused red wire from the light kit. I ran it from the positive battery terminal to the relay terminal 87 (12V in) 14. I ran a ground wire from the same place on the frame as Step 12 and the other end was attached to the relay terminal 85 (ground) Here's what it all looks like when finished.
  10. Phones are for talking. Camera's are for taking pictures. Lot's of confusion about that in the past few years.If you get a camera, spring for a tripod too. It makes those long shutter speeds doable. I like the mod, btw. :biggrin:
  11. Wrong! #1 is a step stool so all you dwarfs can climb onto something taller than a skateboard.:rolleyes:
  12. RRW

    Kitt Peak Observatory, AZ

    A short ride outside of Tucson, AZ puts you at the top of the world where you will find the premiere Kitt Peak Observatory. Twelve miles of twisties with excellent pavement makes it well work the trip.
  13. Great mod! Here's my take on some of the things that have been tossed out concerning this mod. 1. The burrs - The brake lines are braided stainless steel. The aluminum burr is not going to be an issue. The brake line will abrade the swing arm not the other way around. The burr should still be removed though. Just because. 2. The "grommets" you probably want to use are actually nylon snap bushings. They are available here.STEIN AIR 3. The chips in the swing arm are a "So What". They can stay there until the bike rots away and it makes no difference. 4. The best way to cut the braided lines is to wrap tape around the line, then cut it by mounting in a vise and using a cut off wheel or new hack saw blade. There will be no fraying and life will be good.
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