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I just said goodbye to my Ol'Heavy. It was not easy but I'm happy because the young man who took her will be good to her and will most likely be joining VFRD soon. I will be much happier seeing her ridden. Looking back for a pic, I found this one. Appropriate because it was the beginning of the end. I loaned Andy my CB500x to join us on the PreRide. I ended up riding it one day and loved it in the mountains. The next year, Covid struck and I rode it while Rob rode Ol'Heavy. I became a much better rider on a bike that was 100lbs lighter and about half the horse power. It was really hard trying to get my old body back on the VFR. The other reason that the pic is appropriate is that it reminds me of the good times and great friends that have come from VFR ownership and membership here going back to '05. I will still be here for years to come, I hope, to continue enjoying the friendships.

We have all wondered how a vfr engine with forced induction takes this abuse right? Well at least I have! So to all those who have told me over the years that this is not going to last, the vfr can not handle this - you are wrong! No measurements have been done, I have just glanced over everything - season has started. This engine will be shelved waiting parts and getting ready for the next stage. A 17000km engine will be put in it's place. I don't have more time this week to tell the story but it will come 🙂 Have a good one guys - ride hard but mind your 3rd gear 😅

Well, after roughly six months of being able to ride again, primarily commuting, no "real" ride yet, but hey, at least I'm able to ride...or am I? Had another little hurdle thrown at me, hand surgery. Seems my left hand suffered from "trigger finger". For the most part, my hand worked like normal except when I used it in a fist for grabbing something. Essentially, it would "lock up" on me, and it was difficult to straighten my hand back out. Ironically, riding a bike and working the clutch didn't seem to be affected by this, so that was the good part. So last Tuesday I had it operated on. Figured it wasn't going to get better on it;s own, so I went forward with the surgery. I had two options, option 1, full anesthesia, option 2, local numbing and be wide awake. Well, after my "other" operation, I felt fully comfortable being awake for this one, especially since that was an option. So that's the route I took, numb the hand, and operate away. Much like my other surgery, the afterward was uneventful and believe it or not no pain! None, not even a little ache. There is some discomfort when making a fist, which is encouraged, well, at least to move my hand like normal as much as possible. That to me was expected, as the affected area was a bit swollen and I did have a sutured wound. Although I technically still ride in this current state, I am encourage to not ride until at least 2 weeks from the surgery date, so not a 9 month wait like the last one. So with dealing with a bunch of "life" stuff and work, I at least have stuff to occupy my time, and it's already been a week, so this time things seem to be moving faster at least. On another positive note, I helped a friend of a friend acquire a 98 5 Gen for $2,900.00! It was listed and was located about 10 miles from me so I went to check it out and if he didn't want it, I was going to buy it! Well, he ended up buying it and I helped him get it freshened up, as it had been sitting for a few months. There was few little pieces that needed attention, that I was able to fix/resolve for him and while he and I were talking, he tells me that not only is he a ski and snow board instructor, he also does motorcycle training. Well, needless to say, we became fast friends! I agreed to help out on a few other things and he said he would give me some one on one rider training, so I took him up on that the Saturday before my surgery. Let's just say, although my street skills are good, I can definitely use some "training" time, I am a little bit rusty after not riding for a while. Oh yeah, prior that Saturday morning we went to the 'Cars and Coffee' at the American Honda HQ in Torrance, CA. Anyway, good to be alive folks! IMG_3358.MOV.mp4

The RC46 crank case & major assemblies are taken directly from the RC45 which in final race trim was putting out 195rwhp @ 14K/rpm. The only major parts difference was the pistons & Ti conrods & the crank+cams being timed differently. The big bang RC45 crank is timed at 0 degrees, such that it acts like a pair of V-twins joined together. And the 2mm shorter stroke allowed for the higher race RPM. That setup creates huge loads, the VFR's 180 degree crank is much kinder to the cases & bearings. Due to the total lack of RC45 crank case spares, race teams use 5th gen crank cases with the swingarm pivot ground off. They then bolt straight in to RC45 frame and all RC45 innards just drop in.

May '93: Cherry blossoms at Beacon Hill park made a good backdrop for this shot of the new-to me '91 VFR750.

Great news Duc. Speedy recovery. I fully understand the frustration from post operative blues of not being able to ride for lengthy periods. Nice partnership with your mate, rider training in exchange for bike help. I find it one of the joys of motorcycling, always learning and refining technique and smoothness, whether or not I achieve my goal is debatable! Great motorcycle porn shots! Guess you'd never want a faulty "trigger finger" with a six shooter in your hand! Take care and best regards.

Never been an issue with all 4 VFR800's I've owned with after market exhausts fitted, 1200 shouldn't be any different. O2 sensors means ECU runs in closed loop, so air to fuel ratio is continuously optimized. Think you're worrying about nothing. I'd probably go back to the OEM type airfilter if it was mine! Good Luck with the bike, take it for a good test ride. Check it's maintenance history. Coolant change, brake and clutch fluid replacement - should have had a few of those! Oil and filter, etc. P.s. I'm sure there was a rear wheel drive unit issue recall for the early 1200's. Make sure this has been done.

Here's a 2001 with 17k miles listed locally for $6k. It's high but the seller is probably not in a rush and can lower the price as needed. https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/75107544 I say list yours at 5-6 and see what happens. You can always lower it. That said, I offer the following for reference: I bought a 2001 in 2021 with 20k miles for $3,000. Pretty clean overall just needed some refreshing. I considered this one a pretty good deal. I bought another 2001 6 months ago with 39k miles for $2500. Not as clean, needed more refreshing. This one was more of an ok/fair deal for what it was. Last year there was a 2001 on cycletrader with only 1200 miles listed at $6500. Very sensible price given the miles. It was super clean too. It would be rare to find another one with miles that low or lower. Things that help get top dollar: -bike should be detailed, waxed and exceptionally clean. If we're claiming near showroom it should look like it. -new(er) tires, recent fluids, etc, especially brake fluid for anyone that knows the annoyance of properly bleeding linked brakes. -any and all documented service history available, receipts if you have any in a folder. Both keys if you have them. -all mods documented in the ad, stock parts included if you have them still. -should include OEM grab handles, rear upper cowl (that covers the seat), OEM windscreen, owner's manual and tool kit -any issues or defects documented/photographed. Pointing out a few small scratches is a good thing if that's literally all there is to point out. It emphasizes that the rest of the bike is in great shape and no surprises for potential buyers. -Several GOOD pictures in sunlight (It's amazing how many sellers don't take the time to clean up a vehicle or take good pics.) -a short but well written for sale ad, bullet points not paragraphs -priced reasonably given current market. These bikes live between $2k and about $6k with most falling in the $3500-$4500 range. Several factors determine what it will ultimately sell for. There's a price that will have it sold in minutes, another that will have it sold in a day, and another that will take weeks, and another where it won't sell at all. Decide what you would be happy with, add a little wiggle room and see how it goes. I have sold many vehicles to the first person who came to look at them by having them clean, sorted, well presented and fairly priced. Most of my vehicles have sold quickly. Some too quickly. Some took longer, some I had to lower the price a little more until the right buyer appeared. Just gotta get the right combination of factors to get it done. This is one that I recently spent some time refreshing and cleaning up over the winter. It's not worth $6k, but would probably sell quickly at a reasonable ask. Not for sale though. 😉 Cheers, Justin (click for better resolution)

Up for sale is my gorgeous VFR 800. I bought it late of 2020 with only 2800 miles on it. It was bone stock. Over the last few years I've made some tasteful modifications. Pazzo levers, Heli-bars, Puig screen, Two Bros. can, EBC-HH pads, Sargent seat, black and gold RK chain and sprocket. Changed out the 23 year old brake and clutch hoses for HEL lines. (Don't even ask what they cost). Had DMr re-valve and respring the rear shock for a 200 lb rider. Front forks were serviced, re-sealed and re-sprung accordingly. Replaced the fork tubes due to some minor pitting. Every fluid on the bike has been flushed at least once. Bridgestone Battleax's have plenty of life left. Replaced the plugs and air cleaner out of boredom, and the Yuasa battery is one season old. Always garaged and on a tender. All the fasteners, bolts and push pins are OEM correct and in place. I have the stock muffler, hoses, complete tool kit with spanners, both keys, rear spring, grab handles and hardware. I should have the stock clip-ons somewhere. Small rock chip on left fairing, and a couple hardly visible scratches on the lower right fairing. Asking $6000.

Hi Mello. Thanks for the info. Saw his name on the member list. I don't want to join the ST-owners forum, but if you're on it? Can you send him a PM, tell him to get back to the real forum! VFRD misses him. Cheers

If there is decent airflow through the radiator then the bike should sit at/near the thermostat opening point of 78-80C or 176F irrespective of the ambient temperature. When you get stuck in traffic (no air passing through the radiator) the temperature will rise to around 100 (212) and should cycle up/down as the fans switch on off. To get higher than that would suggest maybe the fans don't work or the thermostat is stuck. Let's assume the cooling system is full and the reservoir has a decent volume as well (you checked that, right?). If the radiator stays cold when the engine starts and then suddenly gets too hot to touch around 176, the thermostat probably works. If the radiator gently warms up as soon as the engine starts, the thermostat is probably jammed half-open. If the radiator never gets hot, the thermostat is probably jammed shut. Check the fan switches itself on around 212F and off a few degrees below that. Some have altered the fan wiring to put a manual bypass switch in place, so if you are going to get mired in traffic you can start the fan earlier.

This is the exact same thing as I did. Thanks

Just my two cents worth, I hope others with more experience in this area might chime in. Interesting question. SV synch is fundamental to good even idle, and smoothness in the small throttle opening zone, a mechanical setting, adjusted at normal operating temp, without the influence of the fast idle Wax Unit, and butterflies closed. Stands to reason this should be carried out first along with correct warm idle adjustment of 1200rpm. Assuming badly balanced SV's, and especially during the cold start enrichment phase, a slight touch of the throttle opening and the added air might cause a stall. I know of a similar effect (possibly in both hot and cold modes) on a 5gen. a faulty signal from the TPS at low throttle was measured, but not bad enough to force an Fi DTC. The whole throttle body was replaced and problem solved. All warm engine ops are normal according to Shane the OP. Perhaps signals from MAP and/or ECT are marginal at cold temps and might need checking. Watching the Wax unit action on the Starter Valves, and if the movement is smooth and gradual from cold fast idle to the warm Idle, you can then discount the Wax Unit causing any problems.

4 years later.. just weighed this afternoon when changing tires, using a postal scale. Marchesini forged wheel from a 1098 Duc - 7 lb 14oz VFR 5g-6g oem 5-spoke - 13lb 4 oz

On the topic of hand controls, by coincidence did the same for my 6th gen's clutch & brake levers (similar to the 3rd thru 8th gens). The old grease becomes sticky over time and I've found that spritzing WD40 or similar on them in place doesn't do all that good a job of cleaning. When removed the levers can be dismantled, a tricky but not impossible task for those too inclined. That also gives access to clean the master cylinder pivot which ensures the smoothest possible response to input.

2015 Honda VFR Intercepter Deluxe- One senior owner. My wife bought this bike for me for my 70th birthday and it has been garaged since new. Health issues require that I give up riding. The Deluxe model of the 2015 Intercepter includes Traction Control, Anti-skid Braking, Self-canceling Turn Signals, Heated Grips, and a Center-stand- items which are not included on the standard model. Mileage is 24,218. Bike is in like new condition with the exception of very minor plastic damage on left side. I dropped the bike at 0 mph while attempting a u-turn on a narrow dead-end street (don’t always rely on your GPS). Rear seat cowl and rear passenger grab handles have never been mounted but are included. Equipped with Michelin Pilot Road 4GT tires with just under 2000 miles of use. Dual port USB charger and voltmeter installed as well as 1 inch handlebar risers. Located in Denver, NC (just north of Charlotte) post id: 7737270774 posted: 6 days ago

In addition to Skids' excellent suggestions... I added Heli bars, the Honda OEM center stand, and Honda OEM heated grips, and was very happy with all three improvements. The 2010 stock seat was significantly improved in later years (2012 and later?), you might want to look into that. Also, did your bike get the drive shaft recall done? I do miss that bike! But I guess I've said that about almost every one I've owned...

I payed mid $3K for all of mine. They have more than that in suspension components alone. It's not about the money.

Best not to dismantle the wax unit. Clean it up with wd40 and a brush - an old toothbrush perhaps. Clean the linkages on both intake banks.

Oooo I have one of those - my VFR is the daily and 954 my canyon carver on the weekends. I think it's a very good two-bike garage!

...I bought this lightly used 2 year old VFR750, and haven't been without a Honda since then; several VFRs and a handful of VTR1000F. I'd bought the bike late that afternoon, and being early March it was a dark, damp first ride to visit my folks. I'd love to have it back, and in that condition.

The issue of the centre piston on the rear caliper not relieving is now resolved. This would only happen when actuating from the rear brake (that cylinder feeds the rears outer two pistons directly, and feeds centre piston via the front second master cylinder, though the green check and relief valve you see above. I think what was happening is fluid was entering the system through the ball check valve, but could not escape though the tiny relief hole which had blocked after been stood 12 years. The brake initially stuck after cleaning it out as above, it wasn't jammed on, but it wasnt right which was very worrying, I again began the process of confirming and chasing the pressure lock from the caliper back towards the front second master cylinder, but after confirming the pressure released at the rear middle piston banjo, subsequently releasing the rear wheel, I moved on to the PCV under the back right of the fuel tank, only to find I couldn't get it to lock again!? Maybe I just had an air bubble right at the back of the system and I let it out? I did a quick manual bleed over all the points, pumping the front second cylinder by hand, no vacuum/power or check valve hoses, just an 8/10mm spanner and a bit of pipe on all the points, my favourite method to be honest! - The levers are nice and firm now, and after a good blast out, the front brakes are really keen even with light pressure, the back when actuated from the rear still drags for 1/2 second or so but its getting quicker and smoother at releasing, I dont notice it when pulling up at lights any more, the bike free wheels forward back when rocked. Happy, just been out for an hour, great bike, good find.

Errrrr......thanks. Everyone is entitled to their opinion and I'm not going to challenge yours 😆

Rode a few bikes as a youngster, but didn't really start riding until '98. Oldest pic I have of me & the '87 ZX600 is from '05. First VFR was '09.

I can't quite match the vintage, but here we are in 1982, me and my mighty CB125T; two tiny pistons frantically going nowhere! 12000rpm redline! The T did not stand for torque however. This was my first motorcycle and started my love afair with Honda.

Just for a laugh!..... 1972 - Yikes, 52 years ago!! My beloved Honda SL100, absolutely had a hoot with this bike. Worked three paper delivery rounds per week to save up for it. I'd really give this bike a work out and never had a fault with it. That bike won me over forever with Honda's build quality, reliability and durability. My buddies little Honda Mini Trail was also bulletproof. ATGATT...only partially back then. Cheers

OK Lorne. I didn't go back far enough (the end of my digital photos is ~ a little over 20 yrs ago). However, here's an action photo of me about to drag my knee, wearing, obviously, ATGATT. I challenge all here at VFRD to name vehicle brand as well as engine. Cheers!

Oh greeze, man, id prefer to crash on a motorcycle........😏

You may Sir........ Copied this info from the 8gen. posting "Vent System - Update" from 2021. Assume the VFR800X has the same filler cap and vent system. Beware the tank vent hose! Pressure Relief - The common noise we all have heard, and as one member puts it "sounds like the Fuel Pump is priming with power off" or just a few second buzz, fluttering or gurgling sound. This is coming from the Pressure Relief Valve in the filler cap as the tank pressure builds and overcomes the spring tension on its valve. This process will continue to repeat any time slight positive pressure builds in the tank. As you stop a warm engine the heat transfer to the tank causes this to happen more frequently and if you open the filler cap in between the venting you'll always get a very slight pressure relief. Vacuum Relief - Negative Pressure relief also has to overcome slight valve spring pressure as the fuel level drops while riding. On cold days when topping up your tank you may notice very slight suction as you open the tank cap. So depending on temperatures and riding conditions it is Normal to have either slight Vacuum OR slight Pressure as you open the cap. The emphases being SLIGHT. Blocked, Kinked or crushed Breather Hose = DANGER! The problem with the 8gen is the first 12 inches or so of small diameter breather hose. When the Fuel Tank is raised to the maintenance position, the hose is pulled up through a lot of piping and general clutter in this area. If this hose is not manually pulled outwards at the small to large hose coupling taking up the slack as the tank is lowered, you run the chance of a blocked kinked breather hose. The nasty effects of a blocked breather cannot be overstated on these bikes! - Strong Vacuum, can make it impossible to open your filler cap. The Fuel Pump has enough strength in increasing the vacuum while riding to physically damaging your tank, bending the sides inwards. - Whilst having the bike in the sun strong positive pressure can distort the underneath of the tank deforming it outwards. Or virtually blasting the filler cap open as you unlock it. Any signs of strong pressures, negative or positive when opening the filler cap is a warning to check the breather hose.

For anyone that follows HighsideNZ's excellent CAD diagrams based on my original design, please note that after 25K miles the bobbins M10 bolts pulled out of the alloy inner. If you used HighsideNZ's bobbin retainer then they won't come out all the way, but mine came out far enough to lose drive. I have now reengineered the alloy centre hub section with steel inserts press fitted into the alloy. This should now last without further issues. Outside view Inside view There is 2mm clearance between the alloy inner side & the hub carrier. I turned some flanged nuts down so the flange was 1.5mm thick + 6mm of nut to press fit into the alloy.

Trailering this time. I’m coming solo with my Triumph, and maybe the 03 VFR. Photo is the crowd from T-Mac 2005….

Pull a plug and check for white spots? I ran a free flowing exhaust for some 150,000 miles on my VFR750's and RC51 so far. None of them went BOOM and made me crash, burn and die.... 🙂

That makes me uncomfortable in my chair every time...

I was reading through the very useful thread below, but couldn't add to it, so I guess the best I can do is put it here, shame to split things up, but never mind! https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/83194-rear-brake-locking-after-pressing-pedal/ Some more photos of the mystery green valve. This is a relieving check valve. The mesh is critical because the relief orifice is 0.2mm or less and I think people might miss it, so I'm documenting it here, The photos show me removing it, note the orientation, balls up please.... 😉 Red silicone pipe in the outlet of the master cylinder and it hovers out with ease (bearing in mind my 25 year old bike is almost as new condition.... yours might not be so free!) Mesh on both sides, the unseen side has 2 tabs of different sizes to prevent it being put together wrong, as it's eccentric. The spring and ball can be seen. The other side sort of resembles a bottle cap and it pushes into a face groove and snaps down, I used a 0.5mm drill to lift a corner and got a small flat bladed under it as shown, it was still a bit tricky/delicate even with the flat driver to assist. Now shown around the 5.5mm mark on the metric ruler, you can just make out a tiny orifice, this is the relief port. It's so small I can measure it, but I think it is around 0.2mm maybe less. The smallest drill I have, is 0.35 so I can't clear it with a drill, in the end after searching though my wire brush drawer, one had bristles small enough, that were stiff enough not to break, if you break one in there, it's never coming out, be warned, be gentle, if the wire kinks, dont straighten it, remove it, throw it away, start again. I wouldn't advise drill bits or brass wire brushes for this reason, they are too easily snapped the hole is very deep, no doubt to add to it's restrictiveness. The bike is a barn find, very low mileage, very very good condition, its all very clean, but I pushed a slug a waxy looking something from that hole, hopefully this will resolve my issue as pressure was building up in the centre piston and was immediately released when I cracked the hose. The pressure went all the way back to here, then stopped across this plastic relieving check valve. Hopefully the photos and videos here will be immortalised forever, but if not, get in touch, or I keep them here: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/tfbghuds6mhf49210s78o/AME1iORZF4UJXQm3jKPyTjY?rlkey=kdw4ehnjmi1nuoimdw0ra4ifj&dl=0 20240417_223535.mp4 20240417_223419.mp4

Just so you know, the two posts above are from two of the more knowledgeable members of the forum. Welcome to VFRD.

Previous owner left everything to dealers, I showed him some faults he was not aware of when viewing the bike so not much there Will remove the fairings this weekend and start measuring and tracing and checking for cables that aren't part of the loom. Will make some notes as I go as this will be my first time chasing a electrical issue and that wiring map is already making my eyes hurt

I've got a simple "Sealey" manual tyre changer in the UK (probably the same as many others coming out of the same factory in China!) and it works absolutely okay. However, I bought a separate, nylon enhanced tyre bar off eBay which works better than the original all-metal one the Sealey came with. What made the unit work best for me was to bolt it to the driveway, using stainless steel button head bolts (slathered in anti-seize) threaded into Rawlbolts sunk into the drive. When I'm done I unbolt it and put the bolts back into the holes. So far, so good! Ciao, JZH

Wow very strange. Strong suspicion of modified wiring or possible wiring short 12v to 12v. Never heard of this one before. Has this anomaly been there since you picked it up 3 weeks ago or only just happened? This could potentially be a warranty issue if purchased from a dealership. You have a strong case here, you have an incorrect and potentially dangerous situation. Kill Switch has two functions when in the Kill position. 1. Engine Stop Relay coil 12v is removed Black wire = Dead Engine. 2. Removes 12v Starter Relay coil voltage on the Yellow/Red wire = Starter will not Crank over the engine. Question - Can you crank the Engine with the Kill Switch NOT in the RUN position, it shouldn't crank? Ignition Switch to Off Kills power to sub Fuses C, E and F refer the attached drawing ( 2005 model should be similar to yours). Loss of power to fuse C being the 12v power to the Kill Switch and the Bank Angle Sensor also knocks out the Engine Stop Relay to kill the Engine. Engine Stop Relay is not being controlled properly by the sound of things. Have you got the Service Manual? You can download it from this forum. Do you have a multimeter? If Yes then... Suggest you follow the Kill Switch power path...refer attached wiring diagram. 1. Measure Voltage at the Engine Stop Relay on the Black wire there should ONLY be 12v on this wire when Kill Switch is in RUN position with Ignition to On. Activate the Kill switch a few times while monitoring the voltage. It might be easier to monitor this voltage at the 18P Blue connector located just forward above the L/H radiator, remove the left side cowl. What do you measure every time you operate the Kill Switch?

"Wheel weight to be used later."

Saw Danno posted today on the ST-owners forum.... looks like he is busy working on getting a pilots license...

I did it again, now I have a low km 1998 to keep the 2000 company. That's two in the garage now but is my 4th in total.

i agree the amount of rust in that tank is concerning. If that gets past the filter you're gonna have all kinds of FI issues. Not to mention the sealing surface for the sender O ring doesn't look very smooth. A couple different ways to approach that rust: electrolysis, and Evaporust/vinegar. I did my old Ninja tank with Evaporust, and a handful of drywall screws.

I had the same problem and it also happened to 2 other nuts on the fuel pump housing. I got a professional welder to fix it. he did a great job for €50. He welded new bolt heads in, its been fine since with a new gasket & o-ring used on install. Its not something you want leaking.

Beautiful memories. There's something about how bikes can link us back to memories of places we've been and trips taken. Ten years ago I was stranded on the dock at Cherbourg, France, because the ferry I was catching home to Ireland (an 18 hour overnighter) had a radar problem. Eventually we were allowed to board but I had to leave my VFR quayside. They were basically only allowing us on to give us all a place to sleep for the night. They attempted to empty us out the following morning with promises of other ferries but a few of us hung on and explained that we were entitled to do so under EU law. There was no guarantee that an "alternative sailing" would actually take us and once you've left the boat you're on your own. Eventually made friends with many of the staff, got a tour of the ship, saw the bridge, got the VFR onboard and got home a day late. The poor French lad I'd helped out through this, on a nice Kawasaki ER6, had a day robbed from his tour of Ireland because of it but I managed to get him a cabin so he was comfy (until he got to Ireland where it pissed rain..poor guy). Photo below of the VFR fully-loaded dockside. The two Beemer guys disappeared the morning the ferry was emptied, think they chanced the "alternative sailings" thing. Actually the Larry David lookalike there was riding a Honda Silverwing maxiscoot! One more edit - I'm sitting here now with my baby daughter asleep in my arms and am married to the woman who I was traveling back and forth to France for. We've our own little home, a lovely little dog, and a shed where I can work on/admire my two VFRs. If you'd told me that was gonna happen 10 years ago when that picture was taken I'd have been astounded. Life moves fast.

Gentlemen, I give you VIN# 00089. Looking nearly as good as the day I brought her home from the dealer back in May 2001. She's not perfect, but I'd say the time spent in the garage has paid off nicely. Cheers, Justin

35 miles on VFR98 later: Seat of the pants...there's no question that it runs better and smoother. I do not think that it is the new plugs, as they looked just fine, so that leaves me with the flapper and/or PAIR delete to credit/blame. 🙂 The new Roadsmart IIIs felt super too. The brake pads took a few stops, but now feel really nice and linear. I'm dreadful about wearing parts down to nothing before swapping them out...and trying to get to just shy of the end of reserve before filling up! Mello dude, thanks for the info on the flapper/PAIR mods to the 2000 with the O2 sensors and cat, and of course for the superb block off plates. I'd like to wrap it all up on VFR00 too. Thanks to the forum. I've been able to make so many useful and inexpensive mods to the VFRs because of you guys.

Don't listen to them! I returned a few weeks ago from 2800 miles across France and into Northern Spain on my 1200. Flawless (except when I lost the rear brake on a very long downhill twisty section). 100mph = 50mpg (UK gallons). Honest! Budget on upgrading suspension and comfort seat. Panniers are not very big. Brakes are awesome. Ensure shaft recall has been completed - punch mark above frame number. Lose the standard, heavy end can and find a smaller, louder one of your choice. ECU can be tuned remotely to remove 1st/2nd & 6th gear limitations and smooth out low rpms. Beware front brake disc warping. Can't think of anything else right now. Please let us know how you get on.

I would view the below as mileage items: Brake pads Chain and sprockets (keep lubed to ward off surface rust) Valve check - changes due to heat cycles and movement Time related: Oil Coolant Brake fluid Fork oil - 5 years? Clean electrical connectors - corrosion can still happen over time even without riding. Petrol tank - keep full to ward off rust and use fuel stabiliser. Injectors - can't hurt to use an injector cleaner to help keep them clean when riding. Tyres - after using 7 year old tyres I wouldn't again. Fit something sporty that will wear out before 5 years is reached. Get your moneys worth! Keep on stands to avoid flat spots. Battery - tender or swap in a battery from one of the others when you want to drive it, saves buying a battery that sits on a tender for most of its life. Mice protection - may not affect you, plug exhaust and airbox. Bodywork - keep covered with a soft cover even garaged. Detail and polish as the urge grabs you. ACF on metal fittings and fixings. Hoses - over time will get old and hard. Buy replacements now and hoard for later. Rear hub - may be prudent to strip and regrease and then move periodically to stop it seizing, grease gumming up (?) That's all I can think of right now but good advance thinking 👍

Thanks for the replies guys.. I figured either these VFR1200 parts are rare and sought after, or not at all in demand as sales were so low in the US.. At very least I figure the plastics and OEM panniers (blue) will sell easily when the time comes. Sorry for the missing pics on the locost build links- that website has some challenges.. Here are a few youtube links that will work better (at least to show my older build, the Honda N600/ VFR800): The actual fabrication on the above car is in slideshow form below (not my videos): The 'other' VFR800 build is my ongoing 1959 Berkeley (my tiny British car seen below with 2 different bodies).. it is a work in progress.. If you search 'ccrunner,' some pics and videos will pop up here and there.. thanks for your interest.. I'm really enjoying the challenges combining both a car and a bike to make a fun project.